Hot Rods Found two F100s

Need pics

 

Looking g for pics also

 

That bell housing is a one year only piece, pretty rare and has value to the classic truck guys. Need pics of the trans to ID.

 

OK some wanted pictures

 

don't know, I was trying to get some text between the photos but could not... anyway, you can see the transmission and the numbers cast into it. The good motor is the one hanging from chain, bad one is sitting on ground, you can see the starter plate still attached. You can also see the short bellhousing/ 3" spacer on the bottom of the motor sitting on the ground. Also see the big truck style bell on the ground, will a car trans work with that, that is is if that truck 3 speed is no good for hot rod use.
Any comments welcome, just would like to know what a hot rodder can use and what I should sell or junk. Thanks
Oh any any more thoughts on getting the valves out of the "bad" block?

 

Valves in rusty flatheads are usually there to stay, but an elder farmer hereabouts had a rusty F1 flattie (239) that he was going to tear down...
H removed heads & pan, then lowered the engine into a 55 gallon drum filled with diesel and a few gallon cans of WD 40!
After a week, removed engine and power washed it, was able to remove valve guides with a Speedway valve bar!

(My Speedway bar is the same, but not up to the job. I bought a 1" hex prybar, 36" long...) Milled a fork in the flat end, just fits the guide slot. Pulls them out, BUT! I had to build a side mount 'head' (big bracket to exhaust ports) to my 4 wheel engine stand. I was after the Johnson adjustable tappets, so I got 'em.
My flathead wasn't rusty, just cracked. I have others.

 

thanks for the tip ^^^^ but 30 gal of fuel may cost more than the block is worth.
I'm thinking if I could just cut the heads and the stems off of the valves then I could just drive the guids down. but I guess that is the problem cutting the heads off especially the ones that are closed.

 

Muriatic acid would make even the bad engine look new after a day or 2. At least you got one good motor and a few free parts. Good for you!

 

I torched some valves out of an old FH through the covers opening, springs and all. I recall (been years) prying up from inside there and then getting what was left out. Don’t recall how I got the guides out, but did. Remember them all being split guides.
Made a damned mess, but I’ll be darned, block didn’t have a crack you could see by eye anywhere. Sold the bare block for 250 maybe 15 years ago.
Figure I worked for 50 cents an hour getting it stripped

 

That truck bell housing is a good one. It will bolt up to any 8BA flathead and let you bolt any 49 to 64 ford Trans to it.....plus.....most all top loader 3 and 4 speeds have the 49 to 64 bolt pattern also drilled in them, so they will bolt right right up to that bell, giving you literally the best 4 speed ever behind your flathead. The stock truck trans would be worth it to a restorer, I've had one in my shop that I haven't been able to give away for more than 10 years.

 

so I pulled the pan off of the "good" motor yesterday and the crank looks real nice, at least under the caps I removed. Boy is there a lot of sludge in there it will take some real good cleaning.
I don't know if I can just give up on the bad motor yet If I can come up with a 55 gal drum I may try the soak thing, thinking heating oil may be a little cheaper than Diesel fuel. Would the muriatic acid be too strong? I have used it before to clean rust out of boat motor exhaust manifolds but would be afraid it would attack the machined surfaces like lifter bores. Would also need a plastic drum, that may be a little harder to find than a steel one. On the good side it would eat the pistons out.
Nailhead, that's what I was thinking about that bell, I have a '55 T bird trans in my Model A and it looks like it would bolt right up. If I ever find a project car to build, I may just try that 3 speed truck transmission just to see how bad the ratios are. Can't be too bad, it's just a 3 speed and high gear is 1 to 1 how low could 1st be?

 

I was thinking if I cut the stems and springs off at the bottom with a cut wheel and cut the heads out with a torch I could drive the guide with what is left of the stem down, the hardest part would be cutting the head off without screwing up the block. I just don't think I would be able to push or drive the guide up and out, it has to go down a little to get the keeper out anyway

 

Fill the drum full of Coke , it will clean rust well also , just takes a bit longer than Muriatic acid easier on you and environment also

 

I haven't heard anything about the pan rails on either engine. Flatheads develope top-end cracks from running...and pan rail cracks from "sitting".

 

The good motor has been checked for pan rail cracks and it looks good, I have not removed the pan from the other motor but from the outside it looks ok.

 

As mentioned, the steering boxes are desirable and often converted as an upgrade box for Model As. They were made by Gemmer.

 

How about an update on this project. The better motor has been inspected, sealed up and placed in storage. About the worst thing about this one is that it has been bored to .060 over and could use another rebore to clean it up. I have seen many places sell pistons up to .060 over but only Egge sell anything over that and I think they went from .060 straight to .125 over. is there an .080 over piston available?
The "bad" motor has very bad mouse damage in the valley area, so bad that the oil tube has rusted through. I did get the pistons and crank out but one of the lifter bores broke when driving the lifters out. So that one is scrap, it would have been a long shot to save that block anyway. This is a shame as it has a standard bore. at least I saved the crank and rods.
As to getting any other parts off of these trucks, by the time we got to pull the motors, the grass had grown up so much we had to worry about snakes (i hate snakes) it is so bad we could only walk in the tracks from the skidsteer. So steering box and other stuff will have to wait until winter.

 

Engine dip / derust.
Citric acid is the lowest cost deruster.

Grass and snakes, mower and weed wacker, you'll make enough noise to get them out of the way. Snakes aren't my favorite, but I like them more than mice.

 

To put text with pictures:

Inserting an uploaded picture inserts computer code for the picture.

You can get a cursor going before or after the code to write text and/or hit return to get a break.

If you upload more than one picture then hit 'insert all,' there'll be no breaks/spaces between the pictures.

A picture or three of the trucks as they were would be interesting.

You can use Microsoft Paint to edit pictures, such as circling or pointing to something.