Does any know of a tool brand or tool number for removing and installing the valve guides in a 226 inliner. Did not want to ship it off to shop just to do this. Thanks Don.
The V8's used a bar with a fork on one end. The fork grabbed the guides if I remember it correctly, then you pulled the fork shaped locking tabs out, and the whole valve/spring and guide assembly could be pulled out in one shot by way of the combustion chamber. Speedway still sells these, but an older autosupply place may still have them. Knowing how cheap Henry was I'll guess the inlines had the same arrangement.
Henry did not do that on the inliners. I have the tools for pulling the split valve guides in the V-8 engines as I have done several. The guides in the inliner are solid and did not know if there was a tool that KD or someone else put out. Several Hambers have improvised novel ways so I was asking if anybody had done this before. Was suggested that I use an Air hammer with a drift cut the O.D. undersize for the guide to remove and use it also for reinstall. Thought someone may have used something that I could crank down by threads and push them out then again something along that order to install. Any ideas? Thanks Don.
I'm not familiar with the ford 6 but on most others I have made a driver with a pilot to hold it centered on the guide and drove them out with a hammer from the top and reinstalled them the same way then run a reamer down them. On the dodges I could go about half way and then break the old guide off, then drive it the rest of the way out. Not pretty but I have done a lot of valve jobs on flat sixes that way. Before you start measure down from the top of the block so you know how far to drive the new guides in.
Early G 226 used split guides and mushroom valves, so this would be an H from '47-51? The late guides don't have any tricks, just drive out and drive in to spec depth, N=1.18 down from top of block, X 1.08. There were ford tools...don't have them, would assume they are just punches with guide pins. KD made tools for the early ones...V8 fork won't have a fulcrum, which requires some ingenuity. If you want fancier than a steel rod and a hammer, a long bolt, nut, and washers would allow a smooth pull with no risk of cracking anything. Valves are moder types and will of course come right out after any deburring necessary.
Hi, Yes you are correct I have a 1950 226 and the guides are solid not the split style. I have tools I use for the V-8 flathead ones and could not see how to apply them!Thanks for the info. Mike I wanted to bang them out as you do but wanted to hear from someone that did it that way before I break a block!! Bruce I was thinking of building a threaded tool to do as you suggested also to avoid the hammer method. Did not know if there was a preferred way of dong it. I am always amazed with the ingenuity on this site.I was hoping some one would remember the approved method ford used in the day.
There is a nice K-D Ford valve tool catolog # 253...which can be bought on evilbay for anywhere from $10 to $25...its a great little book that covers all the K-D tools for 4cyl banger motors - all flat-V8s, flat 6's, V12 and the new overheads - up to about 1953....some tools are used on all of these motors and some have specic ones...also has a little instruction...some of my flathead tools -the first pic should have a guide knock out tool - it's on the right
Today most shops would not remove the guides, as there are better ways to do the job. Buy or borrow a K Line bronze liner kit and using a hand drill just bore the existing guide out and drive in a liner. Trim the liner to length and then either finish ream or ball broach to size = done
Guides in engines like this are pretty precisely made and intended to be replaced witout losing concentricity and messing up the valve job work. Not like replacing the so-called drilled in place guides on a BBC or making new guides for an integral guide engine. I think that new guides are likely available from Joblot, and probably still in the bigger engine catalogs like whoever is TRW nowadays. Most are untapered and come out in either direction...unlike those BBC ones I menyioned. I would still reomove them by the book, and if I knew nothing do it out the top since new ones are going in from there. The book would be either '49-51 car or truck shop manuals, reproduced and easy to get. The ideal pullerouter would be a good grade bolt, but that might well be hard to find in sufficent length. If no find, give it a try with allthread, and if that breaks you can get either good industrial use allthread or weird bolt sizes at MSC. Threaded puller throught the guide, out the top, nuts, washers, and a stout steel bar to bridge the valve seat area. Of course check to see that head or nut at bottom is smaller than OD of guide! A threaded puller like this generates massive pull at fairly low wrench force. If guides are impossible to find, unlikely I think, there are several types of bronze liner kits that come with all drills, reamers, and broaches needed but they are a bit pricey from Goodson's, like 180 years ago.
This is an old post but I come to the HAMB looking for information whenever I have a vehicle question so for future searchers here is what I just did with the 226 out of my '49 Ford truck. I have a shop manual, something everyone whoever works on a vehicle should have. Number one tool and worth every penny. The shop manual shows the procedure for pulling the guides and the tool used to do it. Unfortunately, the tool is impossible to find so I improvised. I have the next best thing, a Greenlee hydraulic chassis punch driver and some threaded rod. I had problems with breaking the threaded rod because the initial bond was tough to break. I think if I would have gotten high strength rod it would have worked better, McMaster has the higher strength rod but I was working with what I had in my shop. I ended up turning the engine over and using a home made punch drove the guides down (or up), flipping the block back around and finish pulling them out with the hydraulic punch driver. I braced the upside down block on the forks of my forklift. I had a problem with the first one as I was trying to perfect my procedure and it ended up breaking and I had to drill it out with a 9/16" drill to make the wall of the guide thin enough to chisel out. It was a PIA. All of the other 11 came out fairly easy once I perfected the procedure. Here's a video of how one person did it manually.
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