I have a 26 model t roadster. The car has a Datsun 4 cylinder with a four speed. My question is it doesn’t have a brake light switch. Any ideas on how to incorporate a brake switch? I have a 40 style master and drum brakes. I just got it running it sat for 25 years. Thanks Jerry
You can use a brake pressure switch to activate the lights better way is a micro switch on the brake pedal arm .
Most '40s cars used a hydraulic switch, mounted in a T in the brake line. Easy because it can locate anywhere near your master, but do yourself a favor and get the "low pressure " version. Runs about $20-30 OR Get a mechanical "street rod" switch. It bolts under the floor with a mechanical arm, usually adjustable, that touches the pedal arm. Costs about $20-30 Of course, both need two wires going to switch, power, turn signal, lights etc
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...rical-switch+&+relay,brake+light+switch,10474 Here's one of those "street rod" switches out of a '57 Chevy truck. Been working great for longer than many of us. And way better than a hydraulic which will burn out in a year.
If the arm on your brake pedal comes back up to the toe board a switch for a 47/45 Chevy truck works well and holds up great. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/.../115665/automotive-truck-1948-chevrolet-truck Note it is the same switch that Alchemy showed .
I removed the pressure switch from my '46 Ford and installed a Chevy truck mechanical switch under the toe board. It's activated by the pedal arm, just like the Chevy's do. One reason I really like it is because the brake lights are activated instantly with slight pedal movement, instead of relying on pressure to build up. The other reason I like it is because I don't have to deal with junk pressure switches anymore.
I prefer not to use the pressure switch specially on a single reservoir ,plumbed into the brake line ,they can blow out most made now are cheap made , if desire to use use a commercial /industrial grade
I use these, they're simple, reliable and small. Standard Motor Products SLS127 Stoplight Switch 1930's Style Race Car Build https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1930s-style-race-car-build.1266721/
I use one on my 59 Chevy pickup...because it's original equipment. They fail, too, I've replaced it several times over the 45 years I've had the truck.
I’ve read here on the HAMB the Harley Davidson pressure switches work on the EV8 masters cylinders. I bring it up since you mentioned a 40 MC
^^^^ I have read the same, although I think I read that they have to be mounted vertically to work correctly. mechanical is the only way I would go after swapping out the cheap hydraulic ones every year or two…..
I've been buying up the nos ones at swapmeets, I have an nos one one my '56 panel (also on the non GM makes too). I've had the Ford aftermarket ones leak at the crimp or even pop the contact end off while driving (no leaking before hand on inspection), I used to carry a new switch and a pipe plug (just in case the new switch leaked). If the GM goes out you'll just loose the brake lights, not brake fluid.
I've been using NORS switches, they last for a while, but not forever. The last one had the shaft rust in the housing and shear off.
knock on wood… The hydraulic switch on my 41 Cadillac is damn old but it still works fine. I bought the car in 1985 and it looked old then. I still want to put a lever switch on (such as the Chevy pick up type) because I would like to have very quick reacting brake lights.
I run a generic GM mechanical switch on my Ford. It is adjusted such that the brake lights are on while the pedal is still taking up free-play.
Like it or not this was my favorite set up yet. 5 dollar momentary switch I put into an old pedal pad. Always works after 2 failed pressure switches and I had a hard time finding a clean way to install the mechanical one with the arm using an ansen style swing pedal
Took one from a mid eighties Chevette and farmed up a bracket to the pedal on my 58'. Had a stock pressure switch till it got to the point where I was almost at a full stop before the lights came on.
Skip the hydraulic switches…with a mechanical switch you can tap the brake pedal to deal with tailgaters, w/o actually slowing down, like what happens with the hydraulic switches.
I have a few old brand replacements. The last new ones I bought (years ago) where wildly off, some didn’t have continuity until half way…..so I started to collect NOS/NORS ones.
The MC is under the cab so I used a sealed momentary switch and a home brewed bracket. It sits on the heim joint where the pedal connects to the booster pushrod.
The Jalopy Journal
