been focused more on the garage than the car but did determine the banger will do 70MPH. Satisfied with that.
LOL give me time, I finally got it cleaned out of all the carpentry stuff, all my "Stuff" is in a storage unit. Thought it should stay nice for a couple days and for the picture..
Folks, here is another plug for the F.A.S.T organization. These folks are attempting to keep the newsletter going along with a great way to keep up with the events. I think Ron & Carol did a great job and hope the tradition continues. $20 Subscription Checks Payable to: F.A.S.T. Mail to: John Cammack 3247 W. March Lane, Suite 120 Stockton, California 95219-2334 [email protected] Phone: 209-473-8787
Barn find? Located a few of the improved Kong girdles and pans Pm me if interested Can supply raw castings or partial machining ]
Finally got the T5 with closed drive and rebuilt rear axle with 4.11 gears done and in the car. It's a Camaro T5 with a 2.95:1 1st gear and a S10 4x4 tail housing. A bunch of little details and it will be ready to drive. Next on the list will be lowering it and new tires and wheels.
Here’s my report from the showdown at Sanford field Hillsboro Wisconsin. Burl and I did Iola, Miller Meet and then took our Bangers to the races. At morning practice I was 12.46 did a little tuning got down to 12.1 in the 1/8 mile. I think there was nine other four cylinders running. After practice the races in the afternoon where flag girl start, you lost twice and you were out. My clutch was slipping a little, so I had to strategize and try to pair up with the slower cars to make it near the end. I lost one race and that guy I lost to got eliminated by the 111 car. So here I am. Up in the final against the 111 car that won last year, and here I am in my heavy ass sedan against the roadster. Luckily he started having ignition issues and I won. But, on a sad note to get to the final I had to beat my friend Brian Burley‘s Dodge
Our Speedster is Fired & Running again with new set up, 1938 Diamond “B” Block, Pontiac Rods, Isky Cam, 1934 Large Port Riley 4-Port Head, two 45 DCOE Carburetors, Electronic Ignition and a Electronically controlled Electric Water Pump. Working on getting set-up in order, maybe a little rich, but I couldn’t resist the look with two DCOEs with the velocity tubes. The Electric Water Pump and Electric Fan have and an electric controller that varies Pump Run-time and Flow Rate along with the Electric Fan to keep water temperature at a temperature set by operator. I wrote a paper on the pump, how it works, pricing, where to purchase, etc. it was new to me, but I realize others have more experience. If anyone wants a copy, Email me at: [email protected].
Question...Are Burtz block vehicles allowed to compete in the FAST type events/hillclimbs etc? In reading the rules it seems as though they would be prohibited.
raaf That is a good question I know the previous regime would not allow anything such as that, we’re going to find out. part of the concern is keeping the likes of the Donovan and Offy motors out of the field. J
Seems like just having a bullet proof bottom end (Burtz) that you could flog fearlessly would be a big advantage over always trying to go a little bit easy on the early Henry grenade parts.
Yes...seems like an unfair advantage. But with more Burtz' out there, maybe they'll tolerate for a time or create a new class. Would be fun to see people push these modern blocks to the point of risk as well.
BURTZ blocks/engines are allowed in FAST. I would check with your local group but, in our Nor-Cal group you can run them. You might get away with a Donovan block- I don't issue magnets to my inspectors! Not sure the Burtz motor is any better than an A or B- the dent in your wallet is about the same. Do not start a discussion on which is better- just smile, come out and run your car. We do have insurance for next year!
Here's my learning curve from my first three years of hill-climbing. Five main bearings might have been a positive................
Hi all Need some guidance please. Noticed today two things of concern with my 31 A Coupe. Its got new oil. 1) Oil dripping somewhat profusely from the (drain?) hole at the bottom of the bellhousing. Its my 1st A but not my 1st engine so Im guessing rear main seal??? . 2) Out of that same hole is a the long ends of a split pin. About 3/4"worth. Any ideas what that's off? Clutch is working fine. So I guess Im pulling the engine or box to try and ascertain what is going on and if its a rear main seal what will be the best plan of attack? Whats going to be best, motor out or box? Box is a Ford truck 3 speed plus OD. Thanks one and all. On brighter news I got one step closer to getting it registered here in Japan, with it passing inspection. It did take 2 tries including some carpark brake work but after 3 months of BS to get this far hopefully will have plates on it in 2 -3 weeks
It's not a Ford, Chev or Dodge for that matter, but it is a big 4 banger - 4Litre 145CI ish - & of the vintage peroid. - mid 1920's - that we have just finished putting together at work. It's an OD Vauxhall with some mods, better cam profile etc. 5 main bearings & pressure fed from standard. All very interesting.
The Jalopy Journal
