I am spraying a hood and trunk with black lacquer to match the original paint on the rest of the car. In the past, I know it used to be normal to spray 8-10 coats of lacquer, but TCP Global lacquer has a straight 1:1 mixing ratio as opposed to some older paints like Duracryl mixed 1:1.5. I am also spraying with an HTE gun, so the transfer rate is surprisingly high with very little fog. I am wondering how much these factors affect the thickness of the paint as sprayed. In other words, will 4 coats under these circumstances equate to 8 coats the way it was sprayed in the past? The company’s product data sheet says spray 3-4 coats medium-wet. Thanks.
Are you planning on cutting and buffing to a super slick black lacquer finish or trying to replicate an older finish? Does the data sheet mention sanding and buffing? I haven’t shot any TCP lacquer, but I’d say if you’re planning to cut and buff to slick, and the sheet says 4 coats, you might land on 6 coats. You will probably sand a couple of them off and end up with the equivalent of 4. Just my thoughts on it.
I haven't used an HTE gun yet but I have sprayed tons of lacquer paint with a Binks #7. I think it stands to reason that the transfer of paint would be twice as efficient, if not more. Watch your flash between coats and you should see your coverage difference after 4 good coats. Just curious, what clear are you using? And how are they recommending application?
No advice, interested in learning. How is the old finish? Does it cut and buff to a shine? If not any modifications to the new paint mix to match old paint fading ? Any chips in the old paint to see what color of primer was used - does it matter with black lacquer?
Old dayz ---- 4 coats, let sit a day, hit it with 600 real lightly then 4 more coats. set 2 days and flatten out with 600. Then to buff. In dem days 600 was the finest made. Always looked a miles deep
The data sheet does not mention cutting/buffing. I am hoping for a factory texture, but will have to sand out some nibs/lint for sure.
I used my Binks 7 the last time I shot this paint and it fogged the room just like the old days. But my Binks is starting to spit a little, so I think it needs a seal kit. I painted some small parts with the HTE gun and was impressed with the way it layed down, so I decided to shoot the hood and trunk with it. I t performed best with very low pressure, less than 25 psi and I had to move much slower, but it gave good control once I found the groove. Transfer rate was very noticeably greater, so yes... I agree on generous flash time. I do not plan to spray any clear on top, just match OEM texture/gloss the best I can. The spec sheet covers both siphon feed and hvlp.
The original paint is in great shape overall. Only the hood and trunk themselves had crows feet, but glossy otherwise. No need to account for fading as the rest of the car buffed out like new. It looks like dark gray primer was used by the factory. (GM-Cadillac)
I emulated that concept at half scale to account for the aforementioned transfer rate increase. I shot two coats, let it sit several hours then hit with 600. I sprayed the following coat as wet as I could without running and stopped there for fear of blushing in this climate. Interestingly, the data sheet says it is best to shoot all coats on the same day. But that did not happen. The way things are looking, I am thinking another light sanding and one more wet coat should do it.
This might be a new question, but how would you suggest I fix this? I should have sanded down to metal, but thought I had gotten past all the original lacquer crows feet, but apparently not. I saw this after my first 2 coats, so I stopped and sanded these places flat with 600... (or so I thought). They continue to be pronounced after my 3rd coat. Should I sand down again? Or skim these spots over with glaze, primer and keep going?
If you have some epoxy primer, you could try sealing over that area, letting it cure will and try that. Otherwise, bare metal is the only cure, IMO.
IME if it not applied really wet, allow plenty of flash time between coats and it doesn’t lift immediately it’ll be fine. Once the reducer is gone an it’s hard the risk is gone.
Lacquer out of the gun is going to be a bit dull, unless you load it up with retarder. It ALWAYS looks better with a cut and buff...and it's SO much easier than today's urethanes! A concern I would have, is that with the extra transfer efficiency, you are putting on more paint. Lacquer can be sensitive to solvent pop if the paint is put on too thick, or to quickly.
There are 50 shades of Black as they say. A “blue” black car looks like s..t when touched up with “brown” black.
^^^^ THIS, in spades! Back in high school, (1957) my bud Rams's Dad helped us strip Rams's 'channeled '30 Coupe. We then lacquer thinner sanded, then soap-and-water sanded. Black lacquer primered, then a month later one more wet sand party, his Dad laid on some black synthetic enamel. Shiny? You bet. Couple of weeks later, we waxed the coupe. Funny...The black had a brown hue to it, if you really looked. That rod was around 'til '67, always shiny...but kinda 'brown'!
I only have medium thinner and it has been in the high 80s. It definitely comes out dullish. Cut and buff will be a must, not an option. I sprayed some parts with slow thinner a month ago and it laid down much smoother and wetter looking.
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