Getting ready to install my rebuilt Stude V8 that I got back from builder 4 months ago. Been in dry storage until now. Heads are off. Can not budge it at all using a socket and breaker bar (on crank bolt). Now what?
Did it turn when you first got it, four months ago? I would contact the rebuilder before doing anything.
How long is your handle....no pun! Spray some oil into each cylinder and try it. Try moving it backward!... If still 'no-joy'..take the pan off and start loosing stuff until it moves. (You DO realize new engines are really tight after assembly.) How "good" was the builder? jack-leg or a real machinist? 6sally6
If everything is coated in lubraplate that is probably the problem. It tends to dry out a bit and will glue a motor together.
Hopefully the builder is a stand up outfit, if they’re going to tear it down and inspect, myself I’d want to be there to see what they find.
I agree with greybeard, assembly lube will dry out and engine will seem to be stuck. I bought an old Chevy crate engine that had been sold in the '60s and had to dissemble it and clean all the main and rod journals. As others have stated don't try to break it loose with a breaker bar.
If you trust the builder, you should have already called the builder. Generally speaking, I don't know anyone who assembles an engine without turning the crank over to make sure it feels right, so it is probably something simple. I don't know Studebaker engines, but someone is going to have to open up the engine. You should talk to the builder before you touch anything. Right now it is on him. If you start messing with it, it is on you. If he is a stand up guy, he will work this through with you, even if you don't send it back to him. The last rebuilt engine I got came with a warranty. The warranty was invalid if I did not send the engine back and messed with it myself. In my case, the engine was fine. Is your builder some guy, or does he own a machine shop? Take a deep breath. Whatever is going on, there is a solution. You want to find out what the problem is, and you don't want to cause any damage while you are finding out what it is.
Hey, this is the HAMB!! We LOVE carnage and mayhem at someone else's expense.... crank that muther with a 6 foot cheater and let the chips fall where they may!! Be sure and post pictures of the aftermath.... Just kidding... call the rebuilder and get their advice..... no point in chancing expensive damage when a phone call is free! Good luck!
Well I'm not familiar with a Stude V8 either, but if it's head free, and doesn't turn over, I can't see that rope seal stopping it from rotating no matter how tight I close my eyes. Maybe someone left the plastic gauge in? Automotive History: The Studebaker V8 Engine – Punching Below Its Weight | Curbside Classic
Engines get rotated many many times during assembly. Can't imagine any proper assembly lube drying out that fast. Probably should take the pan off, see what you can see, and if nothing is obvious pull a few bearing caps. Hard to imagine this left the builders shop like that. Of course talk to the builder and take it back if you want but remember that's where the problem came from. Let us know how this turns out.
Using the crank bolt is not a good idea try this put two long bolts in the crankshaft flange then using a bar between the bolts see if it will move.
No heads... if lubed bagged, and dry (humidity controlled) not roof on a pole barn. It should turn over relatively easy... no heads, no valve spring pressure, no compression.. Agree with previous comments, contact builder. Typically pistons will stick first if humidity levels are not controlled.
Is there a flywheel or flex plate on it? If so, pry on the teeth with a large screwdriver or medium sized pry bar. You can put a lot more torque on the crank this way than with a breaker bar on the crank bolt. Hell, I bet if you put the starter on it and bump it it'll turn. I just got a "parked since 1979" '56 Studebaker president running a couple weeks ago. It was "stuck" (ie, couldn't move it with the breaker bar) but a little juice in the cylinders and an overnight soak did the trick.
Hopefully the op will get back with a diagnosis. The engine had to be rotated to assemble the crank and rods and pistons, Probably it just needs to be cleaned up and oil circulated.
Used a couple of different penetrants, let it sit. Started to turn in both directions (but with a big breaker bar). Probably just a very tight assembly. Will switch to Marvel Mystery oil for next stage.
Pull the pan off look ! Take more apart look ! contact your builder . There is 0 I repeat 0 reason for a short block to NOT spin over with just a 1/2 ratchet , not a long breaker bar . Too tight is not a good thing on a rebuild , always better to go to the loose end of the tolerances .
He's right. Something is wrong. Take it apart or call the builder. I would call the builder first to avoid it being said that you did something wrong taking it apart. My guess would be a bent crank or the wrong size main bearings. Could be a bent rod. Who knows. You could unbolt the cam gear and see if the cam turns free.
Stude engine, I'd be looking at con rod bearing widths. Reground journals sometimes end up with pronounced fillets, con rod bearings now 'too wide'. Fellow mechanic at the dealership I worked at had this problem. Seemed that the repro Stude con rod bearings also fit other makes/models, so the bearing suppliers simply used ONE SPECIFIC part # for a number of engines. Turned over while full of pre lube, then sat for a month and was stuck. This was what we found...
Well, after a few days of Marvel Mystery oil application I am able to turn the engine with a "socket wrench". Still tight but I will continue to turn the crank with MM oil. Try this, at what Ft lbs of force using a typical torque wrench is too much for acceptable rotation?
I would think a V8 short block (no valve load) should turn at around 30-40 ft lbs. of rotating torque with a beam type torque wrench assuming fresh bore/hone with new rings and no prior break in. You could ask the builder for his thoughts if you have a number to give him.
......and when you do this valves may hit pistons that are at or near TDC. Back off all the rockers first.
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