Technical 1940 FORD HOW LOW CAN IT GO

1940 Ford coupe, uses a CE rear suspension set-up. The leaf spring is just about as flat as it can be. I have a 1" lowering block installed but it still is too high in the back, would like it a little lower, but without the use of a 2" block. Is there any other way to get it down. The proper way would be to have the spring mounts inboard on the side of the frame instead of under the frame, but too late for that. Any idea's would be appreciated

 

You can disassemble the springs and de-arch them. Might only have to do the main leaf. Maybe the main leaf can be flipped?

 

How long is the rear shackle? De-arching the springs or flipping them might be possible, but I would consult CE first. Not many other choices without major surgery. That is one nice 40, and I like the stance as is. Why against a 2" block?

 

Looks great as is. With road trip luggage you will want that inch

 

1.5" blocks. I had a pair made from scrap chunks of aluminum & a bandsaw.
Drill & tap a hole in the middle of each one. Thread a bolt in the hole with the head exposed to act as the locating pin for the leaf spring pad. Done.

 

That little car is pretty damn close to perfect as she sits, maybe toss two 50 pound sandbags in the trunk and let her fly.

-Abone.

 

I'm skeptical about 2" blocks because of the pinion angle. But I like the 2 50Llb bag idea

 

Make some 2" tapered blocks that will correct the pinion angle shift. Not that hard to do.
I think you can buy them with the angle too.(2 degrees ???)

 

How long has the kit been installed?
Usually springs settle an inch or so after some driving.
I’m with ^ in it looks great from here!!

I just helped a friend install the same kit on his project 40.
It had an interesting aftermarket split kit installed way high and off center.
At first I was hesitant as I like the ford transverse spring,
however this came out better and easier than expected.
Bias plies are getting installed today…

**tip - order the $210 bracket kit from summit, and the $300 springs from speedway, it’s the cheapest way to go!
TP

 

I can see where you're coming from. That rear is WAY TOO high. Somebody out there makes 2" wedge blocks. Check with the off road crowd.

 

I've seen my own cars drop a little lower when adding the teflon liner between the leafs, easier for the leafs to stretch out without friction binding on the other leafs.

 

If that beauty were mine I'd flip the main leaf in each spring pack to get a no charge de arched/reversed eye. All it will cost you is a bit of time. Good luck, great looking FortyFord.

 

I've got the CE rear spring setup on the rear of my 40 coupe with a Maverick rear end using stock spring pads with 2 inch adjustable lowering blocks and have no problems with pinion angle.

 

Zibo, That suspension was installed in the early 90's

 

I second that.....looks great as is!

 

What Krylon32 said. I have the same in my 40 coupe. If I remember correctly CE had a heavier spring for sedans. But, no matter, 2” block and off you go.

 

Why? It's perfect as is.

 

If that were mine it would have 400,000-miles on it, as it sits.

You won the stance game. You can stop playing now.

 

I wouldn't have thought it was noticeable from the driver's seat, and it looks fine from where I am.
Nice job...

 

Surely the <1½° change at the pinion will equal the opposite <1½° change at the back of the transmission? Unless you're already running large angles in your U-joints you shouldn't have a problem?

I can see how lowering slightly at the back could help, but it's really splitting hairs. That car is sitting near enough to perfect of its type as makes no difference.

 

I have the same combination of CE springs on a 8" Granada rear 235 -15 tires on 6" wide Torque thrust D's originally with a 2" block (in my avatar & other Attached photo with hood off) I changed it to a 1" alum block as it was extremally difficult to remove the rear ire and wheel combo and I was worried if I had a flat on the road I would not to easily remove the flat rear tire/wheel. I still have to remove the rear fender brace to get the wheel off but the 1" difference makes it a little easier. Pictures of B4 no hood profile and after on lift with close up of rear wheel.
FYI I called CE about the rear springs as mine are almost 12 years old and they informed me the springs will eventually take a slight downward set meaning the center area where the spring pads are will be even or even up a little compared to the front and rear ends of the spring pack. sort of a "flat upside down "U"

 

Missing Photos from post #21 both photos with 1" rear blocks installed
ATTACH=full]5446478[/ATTACH]

 

I always weld in a bung into the rear frame and have the shackles on each side of the frame. Free 2" of lowering

 

I think yours looks pretty nice where it's at, myself.

I had a 50's Lincoln rear axle in mine when I bought it. I replaced it with a 8.8 out of a Ranger and it dropped it about 3/4". I now have about the same amount between the wheel well and the tires as @ geoford41 above.

Don't have a good shot of it as of now, but here's a before.

I like how it looks now, but I understand about wanting to go a bit lower. I always feel like that

 

Whoamel, Nice '40 I wish my hood fit as close as yours, your hood is perfectly aligned! nice job!
BTW my tires are 235-75 X 15 I missed putting the profile in my post #22

 

I think they look good when the tire matches the wheel well opening.

 

Here is a side shot. 1.5" blocks with a 235/70/15 tire. The front is where I can get over most driveways/speed bumps without scraping, and the rear height gives a slight rake to it.

I'm always for just little lower, but if the ride quality got worse because of it, I don't think I would be happy with it.

 

So I took some suggestions from the group and put the 2" lowering blocks in. I think it look's better.

 

I like the “rake” look better…guess you don’t!