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Hot Rods Help...driveshaft binding on new build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HardcoreZ28, Jun 28, 2022.

  1. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    Hey everyone....finally fired up my 34 pickup project today for the first time since I started the build 9 years ago. After installing the driveshaft and rear and what I thought was properly adjusting the pinion angle a few weeks ago I noticed some popping and binding from underneath. After starting it today I did a slow roll of about 20 feet and had major binding.
    .

    I'm at a bit of a loss and hoping it's not the pinion offset otherwise I'm going to have to modify an entire new rear housing I believe.

    Attached are some pics in case you guys see something obvious.

    20220628_165631.jpg 20220628_165723.jpg 20220628_165651.jpg 20220628_165538.jpg
     
  2. Pete Eastwood
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,324

    Pete Eastwood
    Member
    from california

    Everything looks normal to me.
    What do you mean by "popping & binding "?
     
    gimpyshotrods and jimmy six like this.
  3. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 2,906

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    The driveshaft has bottomed out !!! [or too long]

    Your front pivots are below the Trans output/ universal height, So any suspension compression will try to thrust the driveshaft into the back of the trans.

    Unbolt the Arms at the front and see if it relieves some of the tension.
     
  4. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,525

    Joe H
    Member

    Not enough clearance at the tailshaft?
     
    Tman, gimpyshotrods and nunattax like this.

  5. I am not seeing anything wrong either (I can't see in the pics if the driveshaft has bottomed).

    Is it possible you have posi and don't have the correct lubricant in the rear end? That can make a heck of a noise ... had it happen to me once when it was my mistake and had it happen a second time when the fluid in my daily failed/wore out and needed changing.

    What is your pinion angle and what is the angle of your trans?
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2022
  6. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,419

    jaracer
    Member

    If it is popping and binding at low speeds, it probably isn't angularity (unless it is way, way off and it doesn't look like it the pictures). I would suspect that the drive shaft is too long or you have a problem u-joint. I suppose it could be something wrong in the rear axle.
     
    gimpyshotrods, Bob Lowry and tommyd like this.
  7. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    When the truck is on the suspension weight and I put the driveshaft in I have about 3/4" or so of travel back into the tailshaft before it bottoms out I believe


    Also for those of you suggesting it's in the rear.....if I pull the driveshaft out and roll the truck it doesn't bind or pop at all when I roll it on the ground.
     
  8. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    I forget what numbers I came up with when I set it 2 weeks ago but another rough check today was about 2* down for the trans, about .25* down for the driveshaft, and about 1* up for the pinion.
     
  9. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 2,906

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    Unbolt the front pivots, and clamp some steel across the frame rails to support the front arms.
    Then roll it forward and back.
    It obviously doesn't pop with the driveshaft out, So now try it with the driveshaft in place but suspension disconnected. [a process of elimination]

    Before you do this ^^^ put it into gear and rock it back and forth, Then back into neutral.
    I've had this before on a 4 x 4 that was hanging a gear while in Neutral .
     
    dana barlow and jaracer like this.
  10. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    Maybe I can try this after work tomorrow. I was just under it again and the yolk is pulled about 1" out of the trans at ride height. And with the weight on the suspension and me turning either the driveshaft or rear wheels by hand in neutral I have no bind or pop. What could possibly be changing on the ground?

    The ujoint at the rear is tight on the driveshaft side.....is this a possibility?
     
    wandi harry likes this.
  11. I wonder if the u-joints were phased correctly when the shaft was made. Is it new?
     
    GordonC, gimpyshotrods and clem like this.
  12. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    The driveshaft is new. I removed the u joints to powdercoat and replaced them after. I made marks on the shaft and front yolk so they were reassembled in the same orientation.
     
  13. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,419

    jaracer
    Member

    Do you have a limited slip differential? Does it only pop and bind when you make a shallow turn?
     
  14. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    It is limited slip however it pops when going straight and the popping goes away if the driveshaft is removed.
     
  15. dalesnyder
    Joined: Feb 6, 2008
    Posts: 609

    dalesnyder
    Member

    Did the u joints move freely with the shaft out?
    After installing new joints , I always give the yokes a good maul smack to releive the bearings.
     
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  16. Kevin Ardinger
    Joined: Aug 31, 2019
    Posts: 778

    Kevin Ardinger
    Member

    Looks like it’s too long to me as well. If not, most likely it’s the front yoke hitting the driveshaft. If it sits real low that front angle gets really ugly. Mine does it when the rear is aired down.
     
    Tow Truck Tom likes this.
  17. Unbolt the driveshaft while its on 4 jack stands as pictured, and see if you really can push the trans yoke into the transmission 1" for sure
     
    SlamIam and ffr1222k like this.
  18. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    No.....with the shaft out the rear ujoint is hard to rotate within the driveshaft.
     
  19. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    Yes.....when unbolted from the rear I can push the driveshaft all the way into the transmission so you only see the yolk and none of the actual slip shaft.
     
  20. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,406

    alchemy
    Member

    If 2 degrees down at the trans, make the pinion the same degree up. They have to be equal. That should be doable with the clevises on the ladder bars.

    And I also like to smack the yoke outward when assembling a new joint, to make sure the cups are seated outward and not rubbing on the end of the cross X.

    Another thing to check if all else fails, is if you might have let a roller loose on assembly of the joint, and its trapped between the X and the cup. It has happened to me before, but usually prevents the cup from seating in the saddle. But maybe?
     
  21. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,250

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The first photo shows the driveshaft joints to be in phase, or very close to it.

    I'd be disassembling the ujoints to make sure the rollers are all where they need to be. New U-joints can be stiff.

    Do you know the condition of the transmission? A bent tailshaft or something within the trans could also cause a bind that might seem to be a U-joint issue..
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2022
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  22. NoelC
    Joined: Mar 21, 2018
    Posts: 668

    NoelC
    Member

    Sound like you want to start there looking for your troubles?
     
  23. Black_Sheep
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 1,446

    Black_Sheep
    Member

    I would start by removing the stiff u-joint to inspect the bearings.
     
    Tman, Blues4U, ffr1222k and 3 others like this.
  24. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 2,906

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    Also , does it click pushing it both directions? or only one direction?
    It could be one of the needles has "fallen over" when the cross was assembled.
     
    mgtstumpy, ffr1222k and hemihotrod66 like this.
  25. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    Transmission is a brand new crate trans from GM
     
  26. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    Yes....forward and reverse both pop
     
  27. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 2,906

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    OK , can you pop one of the circlips on the rear cross and then give the D/shaft cross a gentle tap with a mallet.
    Then try it again.
    Then do the same with the opposite circlip .
     
    Tman likes this.
  28. I'm in the rear u-joint needs taken apart and checked for a roller out of place. Or just get a new one, they are relatively cheap, and replace the rear u-joint. Be very careful about a roller falling, it's easy to happen.
     
  29. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 2,906

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    I agree, but I just want him to isolate the problem before he rips it apart.

    I've had one needle roller fall over on assembly before [and when the end circlip is installed it will bind]
    Usually removal, some grease and careful reassembly is enough.

    He hasn't driven this yet [just rolled it back and forth]
     
    mgtstumpy likes this.
  30. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There lies your frigging problem, you have been listening to those 60's ricky racers who thought you had to aim the pinion down to compensate for spring rap on hard acceleration and that has always caused U joint bind, excess wear and vibration. There still guys down at the spit and whittle club who think that nonsense is gospel but in the real world it doesn't work
    Proper install is that the output shaft of the trans and the pinion are parallel.
    [​IMG]
     

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