Technical Ac belt hitting lower radiator hose

The belt is visible and doesn't look like it goes off at the flat angle that the AC belt does. I'd hazard a guess that the bracket for the AC compressor. Still it should be simple and not too expensive to fab up an idler bracket and mount and idler. r was ordered for the donor car the engine came out of rather than the hot rod it went in.

 

What about the metal line right below the belt now,,,,,,doesn’t it need some attention as well ?
You know,,,,the metal line with the union in it that is almost touching the belt now ?

Tommy

 

That's for the fire distinguisher.

 

Isn't there a lower pully that has smaller diameter out pully?
As far as the tensioner, I have a little concern whether the outer part of the belt would last.

 

Same problem different engine. the j pipe is a second, cut in to sections and weld together from The Stainless Works. The short ells are on ebay from China, what I used. Not very expensive and beautifully made.

 

I agree with Mr48. Buy a cheap idler pulley for about $15 and make a bracket to hold it on the back of the belt. Increases contact patch with the A/C as well as missing the hose.

 

Bert Kollar,
That is similar to a thing I tried,,,,,,except I put a pre bent tube inside the hose .
It was for an off road custom racing ATV for my son .
It was a 2 stroke motorcycle engine in an atv chassis,,,,,,,the hose had to extend out around the expansion chamber to clear .
It worked like it was built that way from the factory,,,,,,always kept a perfect shape and never got near the hot pipe ,,,,,we won several races,,,,,and placed in the top 10 one year in the nation .
Then the economy crashed,,,,and the rest is history,,,,,but the pipe never failed.

Tommy

 

The mount kit you are using places the air conditioning compressor down and close to the engine, you need a different mount kit that will move the compressor up from where it is now. I know you don't want the added expense of replacing a new part, but with the engine mount bracket in the way trying to move the radiator hose down isn't a viable option.

 

I never can understand the reasoning of buying/building something purely "on the cheap".
As was mentioned in an earlier post by...........an idler (could be) a source of problem in the future so most definitely buy a good one or if machining one up as I did put quality bearings in it.

 

I added a idler puller as suggested and tapped it into the solid ac bracket. Thanks for the ideas. I just now have to get a flanged bolt and a my lock nut on the back and I’m back in action to run the ac hoses. Thank you.

 

I was going to have to bend a new line after I got the hose situation took care of after that, but now I don’t too.

 

That looks clean and simple. It may be just the pictures, but I don't see any gusseting on your spacer. If there isn't, you are putting one heck of a load on the bolt where it goes into the hole you tapped. A small triangle on top for the lateral loads and one underneath for the vertical loads should do the job. Putting a jamb nut on the back side is good thinking.

 

He's got a piece of tubing/pipe around the bolt so the stress isn't directly on the bolt, Looks good.

 

What you've done there won't work as that piece of tubing isn't supported in either the vertical or the horizontal. Let us know how it eventually works out.

 

That's a nice first draft but to improve upon it would be beneficial to triangulate in some support for the tube that the bolt passes through because it will move around when the compressor cycles on and off. You also used an idler pulley with serpentine belt grooves in it, your smooth backed v-belt will not like that for long. And lastly, the cogged v-belt also won't like being bent over backwards and will eventually split and fail in between the cogs, but non cogged v-belts are still around. You're on the right track with the solution though.

 

I would go along with Pocket Nick on this one.

 

Jebo ,
You did really good,,,,,that was good thinking .
Like some have mentioned,,,,,,,you will need to reinforce that stand,,,,from the load that will occur .
Otherwise,,,the bolt threads will eventually snap off .

I think you did a good job,,,,,keep it up .

Tommy

 

Replace the pulley with a smooth one, up grade the bolt to 7/16" and upsize the tubing so the bigger bolt will fit through it. Add a jam nut to the back of the bracket and a triangle wedge to the tubing pointing down between crank and compressor ( at 225* on a degree wheel ). Tubing needs lots of surface area to spread the load out, thick walled is way better then thin walled.

 

Might need a different type belt. I've tried to run automotive belts on yard machinery and they didn't last as long as the machinery belts, so you might need to do the reverse and use a machinery belt. An automotive belt isn't designed to flex but one way whereas the machinery belts will flex both ways without damage.

 

You are absolutely right. I should have said inexpensive rather than cheap, as I wasn't refering to quality, but rather to price. I had to replace one on my off topic 2000 Chevy truck and it seems like I paid about $15 for it at the time. Been about 10 years ago and still working fine. Good point though, and poor choice of words on my part.

 

Where does a person look for non clogged belts? All I keep finding is lawn equipment belts that surely wouldn’t last long.

 

Gates still makes them. Haven't been to a parts store in some time, but I know they are not as common as before. But there are over 800 part numbers on Gates website for the smooth style.

https://www.gates.com/us/en/power-transmission/v-belts/banded-v-belt.html

 

I agree with others about a stouter standoff to mount it, also.... don't overtighten the belt. You've got a lot of wrap on both pulleys, so the belt doesn't need to be ultra-tight. JMHO

 

Did I mention 'failure point' in my earlier post?

 

Try your bearing dealer they normally do belts as well.

 

What do you see as the failure point? If he gussets that piece of tube he could hang the engine by it and the two idlers I have replaced were on 100+K vehicles.

 

I found that this lower radiator hose was longer from the water pump to the bend and it might work for you. I needed it to clear my sway bar.

 

You've never been poor ? Pressed for time ? Must be nice to have led a charmed life

 

Thank you!

Ben

 

I believe the writer has made a fix for HIS problem to HIS satisfaction after reading many suggestions. I think this thread should be closed. All he needs to carry in an extra belt and a wrench.