Projects built lots of cars, but never a 32 roadster...

Thanks guys, I appreciate you concern. There are only 2 u-joints, there is a solid (spline-to-DD) coupling coming off the column, a shaft, a u-joint, a shaft and the u-joint at the steering box.
That being said, if there is still a genuine concern of too much pressure being on the lower bearing in the steering column, I'd like to not find out the hard way.

 

Personally, if the column is good quality, I would think it is fine as is. Just make sure the lower column mount is firm.

 

6" from column bearing to center of first u-joint

 

I would trust Borgeson's tech advice and not lose any sleep over it

 

I used to manufacture 2 steering columns one for a 39 wheel and one for a 40 wheel and they both had about 4 inches of shaft sticking out of the end. I used an oil lite bushing on the bottom and never had any wear problems. IMO your steering hookup looks good.

 

The door bumper holes on this Brookville body are not square and certainly not all the same, no way the bumpers fit...out came the Dremel and files

 

Assembled the guage cluster today

 

I am using 2 gauge clusters like yours in cars I'm building, one in my chopped 32 highboy sedan and one in a duece roadster that's in the beginning stages. I got mine from Dale Grau.

 

Yeah, mine's from him too - excellent quality and looks great (plus, fits in a stock 32 dashboard)

 

Fighting a losing ground with trying to get the firewall to fit into the cowl - come to the realization that they simply don't share the same contcontou
Hoping to order hood sides from Rootlieb, but until I get the cowl contour fixed so the hood lines up properly, I'm dead in the water. When the firewall is clamped to the cowl, everything fits great - when I remove the clamps, it all goes to hell

If I stick those strips of cardboard between the cowl rope and the underside of the hood to take up that extra space, everything lines up great...

 

Made a bracket for the firewall mount Lokar transmission dipstick tube so that it melts to the transmission bolt instead. Covered the braided stainless hose with black shrink tubing... Did the same with the kickdown cable. I'm going to turn the dipstick handle to look like my art deco Socal dashboard knobs.

 

Nothing unusual with what you're going through.

 

De-billetized the Lokar transmission dipstick knob -made it looks art deco like my SoCal art deco dash knobs...

 

So, you have a suggestion on how to remedy?

 

Leave the cardboard in . Seriously though, a narrow strip of something, probably rubber, to fit under and be hidden and retained by the rope should work fine. You've got it looking really nice!

Chris

 

Packing, fiddling, patience.

 

First off, what I've seen you doing is great stuff. Can you explain what you mean here? I can't wrap my head around whether I'm missing something, like it blends in or if its sarcasm. Please keep up the killer work and post more pictures!

 

Dip stick knob, did you reshape the Lokar item, or start with a fresh billet?
I really like it!

 

My dog took offense at the comparison of his balls and the stock windshield position on a 32 roadster. If the pic here of the primered body and chrome windshield frame and posts are stock, IMO they look perfect. Then thats why we get to build our own stuff.

 

Knobs look great

 

Yep, knob looks good, a little tinkering and the hood will fit fine. Shoot, I can't even see those trans tunnel welds now that the car is out side. Doing really nice work, gonna be a neat hot rod.

 

Thanks - I re-shaped the Lokar knob, figured it out and CAD and spun it up on a Hardinge...

 

Sorry, maybe too many Bud Lights...
Tried like hell to use a stock GM dipstick tube, but it was too invasive into the trans cover on the passenger's feet.
Bought the LOKAR firewall mount dipstick tube and realized that the movement between the engine rocking and the firewall might induce leaks, so I decided to make a custom bracket and mount it to a trans bolt - all happy now

 

Thanks...I was thinking the same thing - putting something of equal thickness under the cowl rope and call it a day - if anyone says "hey, you put XYZ under your cowl rope, your cowl's not right" this is where I say "I'll untie my shoe laces before I put my foot up your arse, so the shoe stays up there".
Fixing it in this manner gets me driving it by the end of summer and that's important - want to take it to the NSRA event in Burlington VT, 3rd weekend in September.

 

I'm works finally has the 4" long 1.75" diameter column drops available...too bad I need a 5"...
Going to shape it, then TIG weld it. Has a 3/8-16 bolt down the middle for strength.

 

Great build. In the past I have used a short length of small rubber vacuum hose under the hood lace to shim it up to get the hood top to fit. I was at the body shop Friday that's doing the work on my tudor and he had pie cut both hood tops to get them to flow properly. He's done that to several other deuces for me then he adds and subtracts from the hood sides to get just the right fit.

 

Vacuum tubing is a great idea, thanks.

 

I love seeing other HAMBers using SW!

OK, now I got it!

 

Nice job on the dipstick knob, I like to see cars where the builder takes time to carry a matching style or theme throughout the project.
Good idea on the bolt inside the column drop, that will act like a spine and give plenty of strength to the finished piece.

 

Welding a Limeworks column drop is not a job for anything but an expert TIG welder. Lots of junk in the casting. Imperfections will need to be drilled-out, filled, then finished. I might have it chrome plated to hide the off-color filler.