I'm assembling my master cylinder on my 32's chassis but I think it's too close to an exhaust tube ! I don't know if it's OK or bad, because of the temperature ! Thanks for your ideas !
At a standstill, that'll make the boxed in area quite warm; fluid will be OK but the plastic and rubber parts won't thank you for the additional heat. You may want to consider a basic heat shield over that section of the exhaust to try keep the direct radiated heat down a little, the convected heat will still remain. Your heels and lower legs will appreciate it if you don't plan on running carpet, too...
It wouldn't be to hard to fab up a sheet metal shield. Is there any option to run it on the opposite of that diagonal? Maybe do both?
Wrap the exhaust tube with heat shield tape, and put a metal heat shield on between the pipe and master, and you will be fine. It's good you thought about it now, instead of after a brake failure.
You will definitely have an MC getting too hot issue with that arrangement. Mine was similar......I fabricated a heat shield using 20 ga. sheet metal.....cured the problem.
Generally you kinda get stuck with the fact that the brake cylinder is hard to relocate because it has to work with the pedal which has to work with your foot which has to work with your leg.............Since the exhaust pipe is not attached to anything at the front, why not just reroute it with less of a bend in it?
My exhaust pipe is finished and complete, just disassembled on this pics, and this bend is necessary to get around the gearbox holder which comes under the round welded nut.
First, I thought to put the MC farer to the rear and use by the fact a longer push rod, but I'm afraid this one, about 40 cm long, would be too long and would be able to bend when I push on the pedal !
I had a similar situation and the plastic reservoir was actually starting to melt. Made a heat shield out of aluminum (.062 thick) with a couple of bends in it to stiffen it up. Put shield closer to exhaust tube then reservoir and it works well
It doesn't have to be "20" gage specifically. Given the way your setup looks, I'd use a piece of steel plate and tack weld it to the frame parallel to the exhaust pipe. Doesn't matter about the thickness, just whatever you have thats handy. You might bend it slightly at the front to catch more air and direct it between the plate and the brake..... (ga. gage guage are all the same thing, just different ways we say it. ) Metal in the US comes in different thicknesses and those are simply called "gages" The smaller the number the thicker it is. We do the same thing with electrical wire, the smaller the number the bigger the wire.........pretty stupid ain't it? Anyway, just select something thats kinda thin.....but not too thin and it should work just fine.
That looks like it might be a Wilwood master cylinder and reservoir. The other option is to mount reservoir remotely using one of Wilwoods kits and master cylinder caps. Might also be easier to check fluid.
“ga” is the abbreviation for “gauge”, an odd way to measure metal, but it’s what we use here. A handy conversion chart to other measurements is here: https://www.zygology.com/store/pc/viewcontent.asp?idpage=42 So a 20 ga heat shield would be about .9mm. With the exhaust fixed in place, I’d move the master cylinder as far from it as you can. Use a sufficiently stiff pushrod so that it doesn’t flex. And add a heat shield.
Do not use Rebar/ threaded rod !!! 7/16 - 1/2 chromoly / mild steel. Shape ends as needed /Heims. Move mast back , If you desire you could mount Master @ end of vehicle ""being sarcastic"" but can be done!
I would move it back some,,,,,that will also aid in service in the future . It’s a pain to try to replace something that has been put back into a hole . I’m sure most people don’t care at the time,,,,,,,they will probably sell it later and don’t care that the next guy suffers . Do it right to start with,,,,,,,and no problems later . Tommy
Before beginning a definition or explanation of a subject, (gauge) one should be familiar with its correct spelling. Particularly when communicating with someone who uses English as a second language. Doesn't this place have "spell-check"
I tried to help you with an explanation of the fact that we commonly manufacture steel plate (and other things) in predetermined thicknesses and refer to the various thicknesses as "gauges" and the fact that common usage of the term has 3 variations which are acceptable and all mean the same thing........and you want to criticize my post because I simply transposed 2 letters in one of them? Sorry, but I do make typing mistakes on occasion.....and will continue to do so.
@elroots33, think of it like this, use a sheet metal not plate! No reason to go into a "wrong units" vs. "freedom units" debate, let's build a heat shield!
My 48 Lincoln had a 57 Cadillac engine when I bought it. On a hot day on 16 Mile in Sterling Heights Mi the brake fluid expanded and locked up all the brakes. I had to bleed one cylinder a bit to relieve the pressure. I've relocated the master cylinder while installing a Ford 390 FE. Movin/on
Good point. Sheetmetal applies basically to anything less than about 1/4 inch as far as steel goes but most of us tend to think of it as being much thinner...... usually something that also doesn't have a gray scale covering on it. The actual point where sheet becomes plate does seem to have varying opinions within the industry. Tipically an 1/8" thick piece of steel covered with the gray scale will be referred to as plate when the technically correct term is "sheetmetal". Look at the bottom of the chart below and you will see that different metals actually have different thicknesses where they begin to call them "plate". Why? I don't know. The original question was about using 20 gage (.036) and was that thick enough. Personally I would think that it will work, but I would prefer a minimum of 16 gauge (.060) and if I had maybe 11 ga (.120), I'd use that. Mainly because its under the vehicle and exposed to the elements, I'd use something on the thick side.
“I'm assembling my master cylinder on my 32's chassis but I think it's too close to an exhaust tube ! I don't know if it's OK or bad, because of the temperature ! Thanks for your ideas ! I built a 29 A phonebooth pickup last year that had a similar problem. I used a “DEI” heatshield that clamps onto the exhaust pipe. You can purchase DEI products from Summit, NAPA or any number of other companies Problem solved
Is there some reason you can't cut the exhaust and take some out of the bend so it's further away from the master? I'd rework the exhaust, but still add a shield also, mainly to protect that plastic reservoir.
My left head pipe runs about 3” from the MC and booster and the crossover pipe is even closer to the trans tail shaft. I wrapped the exhaust with DEI heat wrap. Three years and no issues…
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