Technical Pertronix / SBC

I am running a Pertronix conversion on my 283 SBC. I have noticed that there are some occasions when it takes a long time to start. Additionally, under an aggressive acceleration, it almost sounds like its missing. Is there a way to test these units?

VOH

 

First thing I'd do is check the installation and make sure it's all installed correctly, with the correct spacing, and alignment for the pickup, and trigger. If that's not perfect the module wont tell the ignition to fire correctly.
Then if all that's OK try this video to see a test procedure:

 

the clearance between the reluctor and the cam is critical. I did one and made absolutely sure it was correct. Also, what coil are you using? A 45K volt unit is recommended.

 

The best way to test it is with an ignition scope. It will let you see what the entire ignition system is doing. You may just have one or two bad plug wires.

 

I am running the Pertronix flame thrower. Its new.

 

It don't mean a thing if ain't got that swing

 

A 2½ hour lesson in what oscilloscopes can tell us about ignition. And there are many other uses for them, even on older cars.

 

If the engine fires at all, the Pertronix module is OK. When the module goes bad, it will not fire at all. As stated above, the gap is wrong, or the coil is going bad.

 

Is the hard start happening when the engine is warm, cold or both?

 

Or is it after the car has not run for a few days and the crap fuel we have today has evaporated and you have to crank it long enough for the fuel pump to refill the float bowl?

 

Its typically after a few days of sitting, so I assume some of it is the crappy gas (even though I am using ethanol free). The biggest notice is under acceleration. It seems to sputter if I am heavier on the pedal.

 

Sounds like you need to add an electric fuel pump that you can run long enough to refill the float bowl before cranking it.

 

As stated earlier, the electronic ignition ether works or it doesn't, not getting enough gas/timing could be the problem, you might look at the coil, are you running the recommended the 50,000 volt Flamethrower coil? HRP

 

Sputtering under acceleration is not an indication of a failed Pertronix module. When the modules fail. they fail completely. There is no condition where the spark is weak or missing. Whether your plugs and/or cables are causing a problem we can't say, it's possible. Hard starting could occur if the battery voltage is significantly low, which could be because of a weak battery, or because the starter motor is dragging and drawing excessive current, pulling the voltage down. Put a volt meter on the batter and watch what happens to the voltage when you're cranking the engine over with the starter, shouldn't drop below 9. Don't crank it longer than 10 seconds at a time, and give the starter time to cool in between attempts.

If it's just a case of fuel in the carburetor evaporating over a couple of days of non-use, and you have a mechanical fuel pump, the best way to deal with that is to just crank the starter for a few seconds then stop, wait for a few seconds to allow the pump to move fuel up to the carburetor, pump the throttle once and crank again. You will probably have to do this a few times in order to get enough fuel to the carb to fill the float bowl and when you pump the throttle the accelerator pump will shoot a shot of fuel down the throat and when you hit the starter it should fire up. Don't hold the starter engaged and cranking until the float bowl fills, that's a great way to wear out your starter, don't crank longer than a few seconds each time. The mechanical pump will continue moving the fuel for a time even when you stop cranking. I learned this from @Boneyard51 and it works, I use it all the time when my cars sit for a few days. If you have an electric fuel pump, forget all that, and just turn the pump on and let it run until the float bowl is filled, pump the throttle and hit it. It should fire immediately.

 

Or, one of these:

Mechanical pump with a primer
Mike

 

After “upgrading “ to a fireball system I have noticed an extra long crank time and also a second of running on or deiseling at shut off.
Anyone else ?

 

OK, that is a new one to me. What is it off of?

 

My John Deere has a fuel with a primer lever

 

I think that one is off of a Triumph. With a spacer and longer bolts, English Ford sidevalve. They make them for Willys/Jeep engines (at least the 134). I think they have them for military Dodge 6's. You see them on Diesel lift pumps too. I Googled, I didn't see SBC. I can hardly imagine there is something you can't get for a SBC. I have one on my '65 Triumph Herald (1147cc OHV powerhouse). Without it, you chew a starter up if you let it sit a couple of days. I snapped one up as soon as I saw it. Mike

 

If he col resistance is low it will cause the pertronixs module to skip etc ...................ditch the coil and replace with bosch 00012 from amazon ...........should fix it

 

Looks similar to the lift pump on my MF 65, didn’t know automobiles used them.

 

Good to see you posting Bubba

 

Is that for the ignitor I or II? I know they recommend 1.5 res. for ignitor I and .6 for II on a V8 12v system. Curious if it matters, thanks.

 

Those fuel pumps were very common on agricultural engines. Those engines usually set a long time and you could use that lever to operate the pump. But the engine had to be turned right or they wouldn’t work. You don’t normally see them on modern automotive applications.






Bones