Projects '63 Country Sedan --- Straight 6 to V-8 swap

Ok, I have the 63' Country Sedan which is basically the Galaxie wagon (the one without the woodgrain). It has the 223 straight 6. This wagon had the option ability to have a the 223 six and the 260, 289, 352, 390 V-8's in a variety of different trans options. I have the Borg Warner R11 3 speed manual with overdrive. I would like to keep this as I am told it was a very solid transmission and I like the overdrive aspect.
I need to get the rebuild process going and I want to make sure I am acquiring all the right pieces for a V-8 swap. I am leaning toward a 289 (which I have). From what I understand my transmission is hearty enough for this motor. What other pieces am I maybe not considering? The engine mounts look straight forward, looks like these were set up all the same on the frame with their own different engine mount but correct me if I am wrong. I know I will need the correct clutch piece (not sure what its called) that runs from engine to frame. Wiring is straight forward. Radiator is totally different and simpler and cheaper to get, the 6 has the reservoir design. My tranny I know bolts to the 5 bolt bell housing. I have a 5 bolt v-8 engine and just acquired the 5 bolt bell housing. I don't think this tranny can mount to a 6 bolt bell housing but I could be wrong.
This is my first indepth foray into a project such as this. Before I start stripping the engine and sending it for machining I want to make sure I am not missing anything.

To answer in advance...no I do not want to do an LS swap, there I said it. Seems like everyone I talk to is telling this is the way to go, not interested. lol

 

I'm no expert, but I think there may be an issue with SBF bellhousings. I seem to remember hearing that only the very early engines will mate to the older transmissions. It's something about a 5 bolt housing vs. a six bolt. Hopefully someone that knows will chime in.

I think that big boat needs an FE anyway.

 

I'm sure it does but I'm going to stick with something a little smaller. I know your correct about 5 bolt bell housings but I do have one and a SBF 5 bolt engine to go with it. Ford switched to 6 bolt blocks / housings in mid 64' ish.

 

My 1962 country sedan had a y block 292 in it 3 on the tree.

 

Your R11 should be behind the T-85. Ford used those behind the FE before and right after the 4 sp toploader came out. My only concern would be the 289 is not a big step up (unless modified) from the 223 six considering the work involved. Might be worth your time to consider a 351. It’s possible to put the a later transmission behind the earlier bellhousing. You turn the input bearing down and drill 2 new mounting holes thru the transmission into the bell and tap them. I’ll bet someone on here has the answer to do the reverse.

If the 289 is fresh and ready to go, I get that too.

I thought the y block was done in autos in 58 or so and trucks in 62, but I’m not sure.

 

Yep.....going from the 260 to the 289 engine....have fun !

 

Sarcasm?

 

Yep, kind of strait forward but not really if you want it looking correct and just be a bolt together swap. As I remember along with the Z bar for the clutch the actual throttle linkage and motor mount stands are a little different. I'm to Old to remember exactly or everything but I know a Guy. He lives and breathes these Cars. On top of that his life is building and parting 1960-1970 Full size Fords. He will be a one stop shopping as well as Correct info if you so choose. I have spent a Train load of $$$$ with him over the years and never had an issue. On top of that he's a grate Guy. Call Stan the Ford man and be ready to leave a short to the point message. His secretary is his answering machine. 360-687-1216

 

Do you have access to a 352 or 390? The wagon really needs some torque, JMO. It's a heavy rascal. Maybe find a swap deal.......
My first car was a '62 Galaxie w/ 223 and my right foot stay glued to the floor the whole time I drove it.

Joe

 

If I was going to a v8. I like a 302 with an AOD. Just my .02 worth.

 

nejeff; What part of the country are you in?

 

I haven't done the swap but I think the small block V8 will bolt in with over the counter 260/289 galaxie motor mounts for a 63 or 64. The clutch bar you need is called a Z bar in many part books but may actually be the same as for the 6. If you have a 5 bolt block with a matching 5 bolt bellhousing the trans should bolt right up. They made scattershield bellhousings with the bolt pattern for early and late transmissions for the 6 bolt block if using a later engine.

 

Well, the first thing I'll say is keeping the OD trans is a good move, but it will complicate a few things. But there are other considerations to keep in mind too. One thing you will need to do if using any Ford motor designed/built after '58 is to replace the pilot bushing with a steel bearing (these are readily available). Ford increased the length of the pilot shaft starting with the SB V8, the early pilot shaft is too short and won't fully engage in the bushing, which can lead to failure. The steel bearing is the fix. Not a problem if using an FE. After '64 it was the only Ford motor to still use the short pilot shaft (and only in the cars; the trucks used the longer one).

Next, the choice of a 289. This motor wasn't a popular option in the full-size cars. At the beginning of the '63 model year and the discontinuation of the Y-block, the entry-level V8 was the 260. But this proved to be such a dog in the big cars that Ford hurriedly came out with the 289 to boost power to tolerable levels. The 289 then went on to fame in smaller, lighter cars but not so much in the big cars. The problem here is the later, bigger SBFs were only available in the 6-bolt block and as noted the early trans won't easily bolt to them. You can't re-drill the typical aluminum bells as there's simply not enough meat in the right places for secure attachment. There are three solutions, but none of them are easy to find and/or cheap. Ford did build a limited number of aluminum dual-pattern 6-bolt bells as service parts but these are rare. These were primarily for warranty reasons, as Ford literally liquidated all 5-bolt motors shortly after the 6-bolt was introduced; this allowed Ford to drop a 6-bolt motor into a 5-bolt car without having to replace the trans also in case of a motor failure. Second choice is finding a cast-iron SB truck bell. These do have bosses cast in for the early pattern so can be drilled. These are also extremely rare, and IIRC used a larger truck-only flywheel. Last choice is a Lakewood scattershield, these were also built with both patterns. I believe these are still available. Any of these will require replacing the front bearing cover with a '65-up cover so that the trans will register properly in the bell as the older one is smaller diameter. This part is available new.

Personally, I'd go with an FE. A 352, 360 or 390 will bolt to that trans with no issues (the early bellhousings aren't hard to find) and with that OD should deliver 20+ mpg. If it's a T85/R11OD those are plenty stout enough for that power, that was Ford's 'performance' trans until the T10 became available in early '61. Even the lighter-duty versions will hold up if you don't abuse them.

If you're determined to use the 5-bolt block, I would highly recommend stroking it with a 302 crank/rods. Any 28OZ imbalance set will do, that will add a noticeable amount of torque and shouldn't impact rebuild costs any more than the cost of those parts. Or you could splurge and buy a 331" stroker kit... There was a good reason why most of these had a 352 in them... LOL.

 

I am in Lincoln Nebraska

 

I have never considered an FE but a quick search on FB and Craigslist shows minimal quantities of 352. I do see one, and possibly another but they don't state what it is

In a perfect world I would have this wagon exactly like it was when it was born, with the 6 cylinder. The worlds not perfect and with quite a bit of research, even with the O.D. transmission, this combination would not give me reliable highway speeds. Also rebuild parts for this engine or getting hard to find and more expensive than a small block Ford, I have not looked at FE rebuild parts. Machine shop would be a little cheaper for a 6 than a 8 but I have found plentiful parts for the 289 and they seem reasonable as compared to the 223. Thanks Crazy Steve for giving me a lot to think about. I guess looking for a bellhousing that would work with this tranny is tops on the list.

 

I have been told the 223 may not be up to "modern" speeds and it had to work pretty hard

 

Looks like 352 is going to require that goofy radiator with external reservour tank. What I have learned with this 223 (has a similar goofy radiator and tank) is that there are zero inexpensive radiator options.

 

What I have learned is Fun cost's Money. How much Fun can you afford? Inexpensive translates into Cheep. Cheep stuff will leave you on the side of the Road, that's not Fun or inexpensive. Do it right or wait till you can. Do yourself a favor and do it right.

 

You don't have to install an expansion tank. Find a standard radiator that will fit the car and install a more modern recovery tank.

Joe

 

You don't have to eat that radiator set-up. Ford loved those expansion tanks for a few years but quickly abandoned them as they were prone to cracking/leaking. The aftermarket actually sold replacement radiators that eliminated the tank that were purpose-built for these cars at one time but you may have a very tough time finding one today. Some searching will turn up a conventional-style radiator that will fit with a bit of modification. That expansion tank these days is for the restorers, 'regular' guys remove it.

 

Five-bolt 260 & 289 are great for early Falcon/Comet/Mustang restorations or any application w/ a small transmission tunnel (I.E. small, light cars). Should be able to get a fair price for it to help build a good stock FE.

If you're hunting for a complete engine on the internet, you're going to paid a whopping sum just to get it shipped. Try hanging @ car meets and talk to the Ford owners, get networked. I'm sure someone is interested in the 289 and has an FE available.

Joe

 

How about a 250 or 300 6

 

I had a 289 in a 56 F100 panel truck and it was great
Also when I was a kid we had a 65 galaxie wagon with 289/ 3 on the tree and we traveled all over hell in that thing, it went fine and got pretty good mileage
I think the 289 would be fine in there unless you were hauling loads

 

Ok, I have found three 352's (one may be 332, he's not sure). All three are stuck! All will require gasoline to go get, not local but not across the country. I think one has a manual bellhousing but not sure yet, it is out of a 59' Ford Fairlane 500. This is the one he's not sure if its a 332 or 352. Going to explore rebuild costs for this model engine

 

This is more difficult as everything is on opposite side of the 223 6 , plus neither will bolt up to my transmission.

 

Very easy to tell 58 332 from a 58 352, Lift a valve cover. If it has adjustable rocker arms it's a 332. 352 had Hyd. lifters with non adjustable rockers.

 

Is 59' same as 58'? May have to drive some to get to it, 1 1/2 hr not too bad. Asking $150 with 4 barrel intake, maybe worth a drive

 

Ok, got it. I thought maybe they were similar to this 223 straight six. I was told they had to do a reservoir because the block is too long and not enough room under there. The radiator on mine sits inside the radiator support, where I see other engines their radiators face mount to the support and not inside of it. Maybe they used different rad supports, I do not know, but my attempts to buy new rads from Speedway have failed, can't get one inside the support (due to the pressure cap neck) and face mount there is not enough room due to the fan

 

This ^^^^
Or better still a 94-97 Roller cam 351w with an AOD behind it [bring it into the 21st century a little bit]
Look for a F4TE block and it will be roller cam.
And convert it back to a carb, and Front sump oilpan

And buy a good runner and save some grief

 

Can a cracked bell housing for an FE be successfully welded and used safely? Have a line on a motor with a cracked housing, have not seen yet.