I just obtained an 8" Ford rear end for my '37 LaSalle which has a 5 on 5 wheel bolt pattern. I believe the 8' Ford is 4 1/2". I think I've heard tell there is a Ford truck wheel that is 5 on 5 and initial research shows a 2004 F-150 has such a pattern. And/or do I need to get a 5 on 5 wheel, cut the center out and mate it to my stock LaSalle rims which are 16's. It appears as though there is just enough room to re-drill the Ford 4 1/2 brake drums to accept the 5" pattern, is that another option? I want to keep the 16' tires on the car. However, there's a tremendous amount of knowledge owned by the subscribers to this group so I thought it best (easiest) to ask y'all for a suggestion. It appears as though I can snake the Ford 8" into my rear suspension by knocking off the stock spring perches and installing new ones approximately 1" outboard from where the originals were. I'll be fairly close to the backing plates, but far enough away not to cause and problems. The only real problem I'll have is re-locating the panhard bar bracket which was originally a (very hefty) part of the left hand side spring perch. I am calling the bracket that welds to the axle housing a spring perch, and my terminology may be incorrect. I thought of cutting the perches off the LaSalle housing, but the Ford is about a 3" diameter and the LaSalle is 3/4" larger, so the radius would be wrong even if I could get them off.
Your post is very confusing. I don't believe any 8 inch ford rear had the 5 on 5 pattern, so not sure what you have or are trying to do. Maybe post some pictures of what you have?
Some full size GM cars have 5 on 5 Caprice and like size cars mid 80's but only 15 inch far as I know
Carl, I would bet your housing is 2-3/4", being it's an 8". The correct term is spring pads. Quick Performance has them in two widths 2" and 2-1/4" https://www.quickperformance.com/search.asp?keyword=spring+pads&search.x=15&search.y=13
Use billet 4.5" to 5" wheel adapters to mount your LaSalle wheels https://www.amazon.com/Adapters-Dyn...l+adapters+5x4.5+to+5x5&qid=1655004755&sr=8-3
I think early 70's T birds and Lincolns had a 5 x5" bolt pattern, but they were all 15". I've also heard some early 80's F100 pickups, not F150's, also had a 5x5" pattern, but again, only in 15", but I've never ran accross one.. And both were 9" rears, probably 28 spline, so if you did find one you might be able to swap the axles and hubs onto the 8", but I can't say that with certainty as I've never tried it.
I used a 57 Mercury 9 inch rear end in my 49 mercury because they are 5on5 so that I could run Cadillac wheels with Sombreros.
While I don't think there is enough meat to re-drill the 8" axle flanges (especially at the access hole), custom axles are available. I am not aware of a 16" 5 on 5 Ford Truck wheel. Chevy used a 5 on 5 on some trucks and vans in the early 80s.
I think he only want's to use the LaSalle wheels he has, just trying to get the 5" pattern drilled on the Ford axles.
^^^ I also think that is what the OP is asking, but the post is very confusing. The 8" had two different axle flanges, 62-72 had a 2.325" wheel register, and 73-up 2.750" with a slightly larger axle flange. The retainer access hole would interfere with a staggered re-drill on either one, and there is not enough material on the earlier one. Going to a 5" bolt circle may be possible on the later one by welding up the holes and re-drilling, but it would be close to the flange edge and from a previous post a 500 Caddy is going in the car. Custom axles? The panhard bar issue is easily solved with a fabricated bracket.
I think he's taking about tube diameter for the rear end, if so then you can get some replacement weld on pads in different leaf spring widths for the 3" dia tube (Ford 8"). Also what bolt pattern are you going to run in the front (stock brake setup or something else?). As for the wheels, here's some questions and answers: 1. Do you want to keep the stock LaSalle wheels. If yes: 1a. then you can try to re drill the 8" (IF there's enough room). 2a. Use wheel adapters IF there's enough room. 3a. Use another differential, 9" Ford in the 70's cars used 5 on 5. 4a. See note below. If no: 1a. Ford Shoeboxes (1949-51) had optional 16" wheels with 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern (they had an outside hubcap bump) 2a. Get aftermarket wheels made from Wheelsmith (https://thewheelsmith.net/) with matching series and multi lug if you want to be able to rotate the tires. *****Note. Plymouth/Dodge of the 40s (I know the 40s for sure, maybe either also?) has wheels that look similar to the stock LaSalle wheels and are 16" (by 4" or 4.5" wide?) with a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Might be close enough to make the hubcap work. 1937 LaSalle model 50: 40's Dodge/Plymouth (I think the windows are smaller in the late 30s): Another wheels to look at is the Packard from the late 30s to '41 with a 6cyl (6 &110 series). They're 16x4 and are 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. The 8cyl (120 and Super eight series) are 5 on 5 bolt pattern. The 110 Packard:
I have cut the spring pads off the original '37 rear end with a carbide wheel and they came out with no damage to the pads whatsoever. I was extremely cautious and after doing all my cuts I gave each pad a fairly soft whack with a hammer, and each moved easily. So, I tapped a bit more and they popped right off, ready to be welded on a new rear end. Near as I can measure the stock rear end is 60 3/4 WMS to WMS. The chart I have shows the Ford F-100 pick up from 1957-'71 has a 61.25" WMS to WMS which means it is a half inch wider overall. The photo shows the stock LaSalle wheel/tire in its stock position and I hear tell there is just about an inch clearance between the fender and the tire. The photo doesn't show how much clearance there is, but it sure looks like the tire is preciously close to the fender. Nevertheless, I believe I'd be moving the tire out 1/4" on each side, which I think I can get by with if I use the 9" F 100 rear end, so that's what my plan is, today at least. I'll put hands on one, measure it and see if I think it will clear. Since I now have the stock spring pads in hand, one of which has the bracket for the panhard bar it can't be much of a problem to remove the stock Ford pads and weld my new ones in place. And since I've learned I must have all the weight on the vehicle before I set pinion angle, I can install the rear end sitting on the pads, tighten down the U-bolts, load the car on a trailer, install the body, etc. then get the pinion angle I need. And, best of all I think the F-100 has the 5 1/2" lug nut pattern I need to fit the stock wheels, which has the same pattern.
So you are learning to measure bolt patterns. At the top of the post you said you had 5x5" wheels, now you say 5x5.5" pattern. It's very important to know what you need before you spend money on parts that won't fit. Unless you just have too much money. Any other questions these guys could help with before you buy more parts?
Boy are you correct. I obtained a ring that has bolt patterns on it and it showed me the error of my ways, I thought I had a 5" pattern and it's 5 1/2. Now I'm gaining an education in the Ford 9", both passenger car and F-150's. To check myself I've consulted with a pro with decades of experience to make sure I know the differences, and am on my way to getting the proper rear end. I don't know as much as I thought I knew, and the experiences have been valuable. Luckily I haven't lost any money yet.
Keep in mind that Ford used the 5.5-on-5 bolt pattern well into the '90s on the F150 trucks although they switched to the 8.8" rear in 1983. I don't know those widths, but as the 9" is getting increasingly rarer as time goes by that does offer some more possible choices that should be more easily found. Ford discontinued the 9" because with its low pinion, it had rather high internal power loss. The 8.8 is roughly twice as efficient and gained some fuel economy.
I don't believe I can locate an 8.8 with a 60 3/4 (or 61") width. I did find a few 9" Ford F-100 rear ends, one with a 2.75 ratio which is what I'd like to have, so will report back on my progress soon. Thanks for all the help.