I bought a Mr Gasket pressure regulator for my '58 Studebaker and would like to know if the numbers on the gizmo correspond to the p.s.i. coming out of it. Mr. Gasket/Holley hasn't answered by email and the tech sheet for it is unhelpful. Just wondering if the numbers are arbitrary or actual. Thanks much!
They probably are intended to be actual, but if you put a gauge on it, you'll find they're arbitrary. So do like Frozen said
I never had a good feeling about those in particular or really anything that said Mr. Gasket that had moving parts .
At full flow they might represent something. Might even be related to pressure units. Static or small-flow it can vary quite a lot due to physics. Strongly recommend as above: get a gauge (even with an expensive one- then at least you know you are in the right ballpark for the carburetor's requirements). Phil
Advice from a fellow Evergreen State resident, return it and buy a Holley regulator 12-804 and a low pressure gauge (0-10 psi). I have no good experiences with those round dial type regs.
As long as it can regulate the pressure, just use it. Running rich and pushing past the needle seat? Turn it down. Running the bowl dry? Turn it up.
If I took that attitude Tom I would have nothin to sell at swap meets. Most of the stuff I sell is new parts that either didn't fit or I changed my mind or, (in extreme cases) stuff I couldn't find so I bought another one like it and then found the first one. Low pressure fuel gauge. One that sweeps from 0-10. They make a lot of them for fuel injected stuff and they sweep to 100! 2-3 PSI doesn't read very accurately (or not at all) on a big sweep gauge. I like the 8-10 PSI gauges. Use that Mr Assgut piece and do as one the other fellers said, install a brass tee and the gauge. They make the tee for the gauges. I found this one doing a quick search and it slices into a rubber line. Includes a 15 PSI gauge. Seconds to install.
Parts man / machinist/ engine builder+ racer for 50 + years.. every one of those regulators I've ever sold or used either was bad out of the box or failed in a very short time.. Even back before Mr . Gasket took over the line.. " filtoreg".., us made.. the entire line was 3 different size inline filters and the round dial regulator. the clear glass filter that you could clean? Might stop gravel , but not much else.. Order up the holley unit and low pressure gauge.. after you get the pressure set , remove the gauge and plug the port. only install the gauge when checking the pressure.. the gauges themselves are delicate and have been known to spring a leak ! Dave
With the gauge installed, between the regulator and the carb, it looks like you guys are right! I installed a new Walbro FRA-2-1 pump back at the tank and unless it only pushes with about 2 lbs of pressure, with the regulator "wide open" at 5 and a half clicks, all I'm getting is 2 and sometimes 1.5 psi. I tried slowly closing the regulator and noticed the gauge fall to about 1 lb as I got closer to the lowest setting. Next plan is to remove the regulator and note the pressure. This pic was taken with my engine running.
Tom: #1 That fuel pump is only producing 2.5-4.5 PSI as per the specs from Walbro Deadhead Pressure: 17.3 to 31 kPa (2.5 to 4.5 psi) #2 As you already know, those regulators are junk #3 Those cheap fuel pressure gauges are junk, all most all of them on the market are junk and inaccurate. We use a real fuel pressure to check and dial in, then remove it. Why are you wanting to reduce the pressure to the pump?
<<Why are you wanting to reduce the pressure to the pump?>> Glenn - I'm having hard restart issues (heat soak?) and wanted to know/adjust what's going into the carb. I've installed a phenolic 1/2" spacer, removed the old mechanical pump, made sure all fuel lines aren't near heat...as good as you can under the hood...and also installed a fuel/water filter on an inside fender. I've got a new Daytona Parts carb on a 185 c.i. flathead six, with manual choke. Makes me crazy, holding breath to start the car when I leave the gym. Cold starts are great, but warm the engine and try after 1/2 hour sitting... Grr!
>>>Oh great. I've installed it and tossed the packaging. >>> FPTs in pot metal castings crack. Remove it anyway.
Tom: Since your 'dead-heading' the fuel pressure to the needle & seat, I highly recommend that you install a Wix 3-line fuel filter which is a return type, which will allow the fuel to always circulate when running. After the engine has been shut down for a while (hot), remove the air cleaner and take a real good spot light and look down inside the throat of the carb, watch for vapors or wetness on top of the throttle blade. Float level is extremely sensitive. Also, many of todays rebuilding parts are sub-par to the originals, I see allot of the needle/seat assemblies leak, which will allow fuel into the carb, thus basically a flood issue. Today's gas is horrible for old carburetors.
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