I’m building a 60s custom and am almost ready for paint most of the car has a coat of rattle can rustolium gray primer on it. What kind of paint do I need to put over this? I was looking for a one stage red metallic that is acrylic enamel but the manufacturer says absolutely do not use over the primer I have on the car now . So what would be safe to use without a reaction?
The only thing to put over rustoilum is rustolium. If you want a quality paint job, you need to start with quality products. You can rattle can paint something to look good at a distance, but it won’t be durable. Don’t throw good money after bad by trying to go over what you already did. If you want a nice durable finish, you need to remove what you’ve laid down, and start with a primer that is compatible with the finish paint you choose.
I don’t have the luxury of time to sand it all off. Besides it is also between layers of body filler so I cannot strip the whole car down and start over . So again what kind of paint do I need to go over what I have without a reaction?
Rustoleum, tractor store Valspar or You can get oil based enamel mixed at an automotive paint store. It’s a little better quality than the hardware store stuff. Plus more color choices. A hardener is available I’ve even cut and buffed after a couple weeks in warm weather.
Is the Rustoleum primer lacquer? Used to shoot acrylic enamel (Centari) over lacquer primer all the time.
My paint supply sells a spray can of 2K urethane primer. I'd see if I could get a can from your supplier and test it in a couple of spots once you're ready. If it doesn't react I'd put 2 coats on it, block it and paint it
This is what’s on the car . Do I need a urithane paint , acrylic lacquer, acrylic enamel , plain lacquer or what ?
Lacquer and basecoat are aggressive, they'll lift substrate like paint stripper would. Generally when something uses a hardener it's not aggressive, so I'd go with an acrylic enamel or acrylic urethane
no "easy" fix with this to end up with quality paint job - talk to paint supply store about a good primer sealer
A long long time ago, I had an old truck, and wanted to paint it. I had no facilities at all, just 4 acres of dirt. I stripped all the paint off, and did some bodywork, applying Bondo (yes, genuine Bond) to the metal after roughing it up. Then I took the car to a friends house who had a compressor, and sprayed lacquer primer over the whole thing. Of course I found a lot of places that needed more bodywork, so I added more Bondo, and whatever spray can primer I had over it. I did this until it was kind of straight. Then I took it to another friend's house, and he sprayed enamel sealer and acrylic lacquer color over it (no sanding between the two). 41 years later, it's still there....no lifting anywhere, but of course you can see where the bodywork was not done very well (lots of low spots, from too much sanding of the Bondo). I don't know how Rustoleum works, but that spray can stuff I used back then ended up being fine. Very strange. Maybe a good primer sealer, or 2k urethane primer, would seal the rustoleum primer well enough for you. As long as whatever you use is catalyzed, and it doesn't react with the primer that's on the car now, the color should be ok, eh? Good luck.
About the only thing you can't do is spray acrylic lacquer over enamel paint. It'll be like paint stripper. You can spray acrylic lacquer over enamel primer providing the primer is well cured. You can spray anything over lacquer primer.
That is what used to be referred to as oil based enamel primer. Alkyd enamel and acrylic enamel are safe over it. Not 2 part paint. Alkyd enamel takes a couple of days to dry and not be tacky but that could be the safest thing to use. Shoot on a test panel to see how it works before you shoot your rod. Good luck with your project.
There are several types of Rustoleum spray can primer, if it says sandable you should be fine with enamel. I’ve used that on a lot of stuff with other spray enamel.
I’m not seeing an issue with using enamel. But, you can have a small amount mixed, 1/2 pint, and try a spot.
The Rustoleum auto primer I think is lacquer. I used it once in a pinch about 20 years ago. I sealed it and put acrylic enamel over it and never had a problem. If I was you I would spray a test panel or 2 and spray it with what ever you want to put over it.
I sprayed an ot VW Bug with some kind of red oxide primer, might have been Rustolem, I don't remember after all these years. Do remember it wasn't labeled as automotive primer. I then sprayed enamel over that that I got at NAPA, their in house brand, Martin Senour I think it was. Laid out beautifully. After about six months in the sun, the paint started coming off in sheets. The primer was unharmed. No adhesion between the paint and primer. Might have been something I did, I dunno. From that time on, I've stayed within then same brand name products and haven't had that problem ever again.
I wouldn't trust the rustoleum rattle can primer. I do like the enamel primer in quarts. Sounds like you're gonna do it anyway, spend a little extra for a sealer. Enamel single stage for a top coat.
You can either spray it with more Rustoleum…for a $100.00 cheap paint job. Or Strip it down to bare metal to do it right, and then get a $10,000 paint Just depends on what you want to end up with.
Rustoleum makes a lacquer primer in a spray can but the one you show is not it. The lacquer paint will not say "stops rust".
a single stage enamel would be safe over that primer. Personally, I would get a primer/surfacer, prime over the entire car and block sand before painting
I would use PPG epoxy primer. Scuff the rustoleum with a scotch Brite pad, but don't go thru. Then coat it with the epoxy, don't pile it on, just a nice coat. Don't use any thinner in it. After it's on 2 days or so you can use acrylic enamel with a hardner. If the epoxy wrinkles your back to straight enamel.
Over the winter of 2017/2018 I redid my coupe that had 6 year old Valspar oil based paint on it. I did some metal work, and redid some body work, then repainted the car with two different colors. My buddy sprayed it with one coat of sealer over the entire car, then did an acrylic enamel primer to one part of the car, with 3 coats of acrylic enamel paint and let it set up over night. We taped off the first color and he primed the other part of the car and hit it with the 3 coats of the 2nd color and let that sit over night. The next day I put the lights back in it and drove it to may heated garage where it sat a few days before I worked on it again. The car sits outside year around. The only issue with the paint job is my crappy body work under the paint. Pictures or it didn't happen. Pic 1 what I started with. Pics 2 and 3, the primary reason for the redo, the rear window frame was rotted away and started to leak. Pic 4 While I'm doing that.... Pic 5 sealed Pic 6 the 1st color. Pic 7 the 2nd color. Pic 8 The new paint job, the wheels would be a couple weeks later. Pic 9 With the hand painted number (Thanks Mark!) Pic 10 yes, it does sit outside year around (until the past winter).
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