Technical ***May 2022 Banger Meet Thread - May Your Banger Run***

It is a auger style, but not for running off the back of a serpentine, that pulley is for the model T flat belt.
J

 

Fabber McGee
Here is another thing you could do, that was used on some of the larger-engined 1910 to 12 Ford factory racing car. Drive it off of the cam. I just looked at my "A" and there is room for it if its not too thick. Early Duesy racing cars were set up the same way.

 

Yep, that's another idea, but it seems like a lot of work for little return. I've seen some old industrial engines with the water pump between the mag and it's drive gear off the side of the cam gear.

 

this is what ive been talking about . acts ridged . hope you can help as i do not understand .

 

Looks like the perch pins are bent and the spring might be hitting the frame

 

do you mean the shackle or the perch itself

 

The perch itself looks like it's leaned in towards the frame a bit more than usual. It also looks like maybe it came off of a car with mechanical brakes as I can see some cut or grind marks on the wheel side

 

yes it was with mechanical ............ when i changed to disc i cut the stuff not needed
thanks & ill check them ....................... steve

 

Gettin the bugs worked out of forming new Winfield float balls. Spinning em didn’t work out, so workin on hydraulic forming this time

 

Just need an acid bath to clean it up, and a bit of solder...



A little vinegar...

 

Last summer, my CCPU with the CRAGAR quit during the Speedster Reunion. Finally attacked it today and found the broken spark plug and the round piece of metal in #4. Looks like lead but is magnetic. I’m running a OHV CRAGAR and a Weber 32/46 carb. Any thoughts?

 

Here's a water pump option that I found on a sprint car pic for my Sprint car project. It pulls from the radiator bottom and pushes to the block's side water neck.
If memory serves me it is from a 37 Hudson. Took some searching but I found one on the 'Bay.
Easy to mount with a fabricated bracket, and it rotates to line up the necks. A late model water pump pulley fits the snout.
I'll look for the actual installed pic if I can find it (and anybody wants it) since my project is on the back burner.

 

@hotrodA that's an interesting choice of pump. I recall reading as a kid a book called Road Race and in it this kid Dave builds a Model A and he mentions picking up a 36 or 37 Hudson water pump from a junkyard.

 

Oh yeah man, that's a handsome little pump. Thanks, I'll save a search and see what shows up. I'm not in a hurry.

 

Last summer, my CCPU with the CRAGAR quit during the Speedster Reunion. Finally attacked it today and found the broken spark plug and the round piece of metal in #4. Looks like lead but is magnetic. I’m running a OHV CRAGAR and a Weber 32/46 carb. Any thoughts?


Are all the screws still in your throttle and choke plates?

 

Thanks HotrodA, I just looked at ebay and they have several on there right now. Didn't see the particular one you pulled the photos from. That's a fine looking little pump.

 

There are apparently several styles, depending on the Hudson engine. I just kept looking until I found this particular one. I’ll see if there is a number on it.
This one style was unique in that it was totally enclosed, did not mount to the block directly and had no heater or bypass hose necks.

 

Water Pump Problem
I have been following the " Pump Posts" this month and found them very interesting . I have a problem with one of the cars, too much pump, I have a stock type pump with a 160 thermostat inline and can not keep water in the radiator. It will puke water out the cap ( have tried 4 different caps ) every time, while the top tank averages 160-165f, the core around 140-145 and the head/block around 160-165. I have an overflow sealed tank but a conventional cap top on the radiator. I have on hand a pressurized radiator that I could install if needed, but I don't think that with the readings I am getting ( I am using 2 different infrared readers ) that the present radiator isn't doing it's job. I have several projects in process where I am using electric pumps and new aluminum 3 row radiators with full shrouds and electric fans, have had too much flow but I am close to taming them. I have a bunch of stock type pumps, but I am thinking of building one up with a modified vane, has anyone out there cut a impeller down ?

 

thanks for your info . ive checked most all . ordered new perches & shackles ...... thanks .. steve

 

Did a little soldering tonite... and yes, it floats!

 

If you're talking about an A or B engine, I don't think you have too much pump. Those pumps have a quite small amount of blade area on the impeller and they turn pretty slowly.
My first thought is combustion gas in the cooling system, either from a crack or a leaky head gasket. When we had emissions testing in this town I knew several of the mechanics at the Ford dealership. If they had an engine they were suspicious of having combustion gas in the cooling system they'd run it over to the emissions test bay, remove the radiator cap and hold the tailpipe sniffer just inside the top of the radiator. If there was carbon monoxide in there it would see it.

 

looks like you cooked it . maybe to hot or to lean .........

 

I failed to mention that I did check the compression and it was 120 across all four. This engine was not built by me originally and has been a source of overheating, I supplied a resurfaced head to the builder. but the engine blew 3 head gaskets, two of which were Bests, the original was another make supplied by the builder. I had the head resurfaced again, not sanded, the engine was down on power, so after fixing several other problems, I finally pulled it and I when thru it my self. I pressured tested the block, magnafluxed and decked the block and made several modifications to it and picked up 17 mph. It still spits water, has never blown another head gasket. I have 4 "A's" my shop, the others do not puke water. Received today a leakless pump kit, along with a new supply of radiator caps and spare sealing components I will proceed to experiment with reducing the impeller surface area. Thank you for your suggestion, appreciate the input.
Steve

 

this is awesome work !

 

new perches & shackles ........... but no apparent change . back to drawing board .. thanks

 

Not real proud of my solder joint on this one (got it too hot)... but had success making the Winfield S float this morning. They are both on weight, on size, and float right!

 

Should a decent Model B manual fuel pump keep up with dual 81's? I can start and it runs well but after a couple minutes it seems to totallly run out of fuel and not run. I am also running a reds header. If not, where is best place to mount the electric fuel pump if I don't want to drill the frame? Thinking of bolting it to the underside of the floor basically under the seat area.

 

I run two Winfield CC's with a model B pump no problems. Should handle 81's easy.

 

Adding this chart for carb size comparison, seems to me an 81 flows about 110 cfm...

 

OK Rebuild kit coming, will try that. I rebuilt it several years ago but long periods of not being driven. I do have an in line guage I can throw on it after I do the rebuild.