I am having problems getting a LOKAR e brake cable kit to work . I have installed it exactly to the instructions. I am running an 8 inch Ford with drum brakes . All brake components are installed and new , correctly . The kit I have is the universal cable kit with a under dash connector cable . Initially when I set it up , per instructions, 3 clicks on the underdash lever the brakes held . I then mounted the wheels , I could manually turn the wheels without much effort . Pushed the lever to 6 clicks wheels held . Took car off the stands , drove it too an incline , applied brake , car in neutral (it’s a 5 speed) car would roll as if the ebrake wasn’t on . I have checked the cables all are pulling ( I had previously marked them for on and off, all is the same . Has anyone else run into this and if so how was it resolved . I hate to park the car on an incline (it’s a roadster) in gear and some one comes along and knocks it out of gear , run into another car or worse a little kid standing in front . Thanks in advance .
So are your shoes properly arched for your drums? And fully adjusted, before you installed the parking brake?
Needs a multiplier as used on most OEM setups. Installed a Lokar style lever directly to my 9" brakes since the bracket connects to two cables but have driven home more than once not even realizing it was on. Even after pulling it about as tight as I could. Still haven't got around to reengineering it but it's only been about 8 years lol.
I built this as per Ed at Control Cables. I have a Tee handle ratchet type of pull handle. I haven’t welded it in as my cables haven’t come in yet. But you get an idea of how it’s going to work (I hope)
Thanx for the suggestions and pics. I can see that a multiplier would be/is the answer. Since the car is finished I really didn’t want to start modifying and adding more brackets. You would think for the money they charge these systems should work as described in the instructions w/o modifying.
The park brake system should be set up/adjusted with the rear axle on jack stands, fully loaded. Make sure the Bendix drum brakes are properly adjusted for +/- .030" shoe-to-drum clearance, or about 10 star wheel teeth from full lock-up. The shoes should be kept centered while adjusting the cables, with the park struts staying slightly "loose" and able to move fully towards the primary shoe. You may have to use a large screw driver to keep the park levers in their relaxed positions while working side-to-side until you're satisfied the cables are adjusted evenly. I'm using Lokar cables on two cars and have no issues.
With apologies to the OP and others reading this post I have a somewhat relevant question that I am hoping some readers with knowledge of E-brake systems can advise me on. I have a champ car replica build going on. I plan to have both a 4-wheel conventional hydraulic brake system combined with a hand brake to actuate the rear brakes only to use to throw the car sideways into a corner (dare I say "drift" it?). My thought was to use the E-brake cables to apply the rear brakes only. No ratcheting locking mechanism obviously. Do you see any major problems using the hand lever occasionally to do this? I was going to use shortened OEM cables, or aftermarket, if I can find the correct lengths. Its for a nine inch posi rear end. Many thanks
I'm with V-8 Bob, there must be something wrong with your set-up. I have Lokar E-Brake kit's on my '32 and my '46 and did not need to fabricate anything to make them work. I get my car Safety 23 checked every year from N.S.R.A. and never an issue when they ask to engage the emergency brake when in drive.