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Hot Rods LOKAR E BRAKE CABLE KIT

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tombstone, May 15, 2022.

  1. tombstone
    Joined: Jan 15, 2006
    Posts: 489

    tombstone
    Member
    from sk.canada

    I am having problems getting a LOKAR e brake cable kit to work . I have installed it exactly to the instructions. I am running an 8 inch Ford with drum brakes . All brake components are installed and new , correctly . The kit I have is the universal cable kit with a under dash connector cable . Initially when I set it up , per instructions, 3 clicks on the underdash lever the brakes held . I then mounted the wheels , I could manually turn the wheels without much effort . Pushed the lever to 6 clicks wheels held . Took car off the stands , drove it too an incline , applied brake , car in neutral (it’s a 5 speed) car would roll as if the ebrake wasn’t on . I have checked the cables all are pulling ( I had previously marked them for on and off, all is the same . Has anyone else run into this and if so how was it resolved . I hate to park the car on an incline (it’s a roadster) in gear and some one comes along and knocks it out of gear , run into another car or worse a little kid standing in front . Thanks in advance .
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,407

    alchemy
    Member

    So are your shoes properly arched for your drums? And fully adjusted, before you installed the parking brake?
     
    hrm2k likes this.
  3. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,485

    landseaandair
    Member
    from phoenix

    Needs a multiplier as used on most OEM setups. Installed a Lokar style lever directly to my 9" brakes since the bracket connects to two cables but have driven home more than once not even realizing it was on. Even after pulling it about as tight as I could. Still haven't got around to reengineering it but it's only been about 8 years lol.
     
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  4. nochop
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 3,818

    nochop
    Member
    from norcal

    F4EACE57-E055-46A4-AA36-36A8A9FB9244.jpeg I built this as per Ed at Control Cables. I have a Tee handle ratchet type of pull handle. I haven’t welded it in as my cables haven’t come in yet. But you get an idea of how it’s going to work (I hope) 34EFB8FE-E87D-4DE4-888F-9B5A44481991.jpeg 6C128335-D989-40B4-9C4D-152FB87A6ABE.jpeg 846D639D-A4A4-4BC1-B6C1-C8001412D230.jpeg
     
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  5. nochop
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 3,818

    nochop
    Member
    from norcal

    Here is what Control Cables sent me after a phone conversation CC74563A-EC97-4622-B332-281078E1D392.jpeg
     
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  6. tombstone
    Joined: Jan 15, 2006
    Posts: 489

    tombstone
    Member
    from sk.canada

    Thanx for the suggestions and pics. I can see that a multiplier would be/is the answer. Since the car is finished I really didn’t want to start modifying and adding more brackets. You would think for the money they charge these systems should work as described in the instructions w/o modifying.
     
    nochop likes this.
  7. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The park brake system should be set up/adjusted with the rear axle on jack stands, fully loaded. Make sure the Bendix drum brakes are properly adjusted for +/- .030" shoe-to-drum clearance, or about 10 star wheel teeth from full lock-up. The shoes should be kept centered while adjusting the cables, with the park struts staying slightly "loose" and able to move fully towards the primary shoe. You may have to use a large screw driver to keep the park levers in their relaxed positions while working side-to-side until you're satisfied the cables are adjusted evenly.
    I'm using Lokar cables on two cars and have no issues.
     
    nochop and Woogeroo like this.
  8. nochop
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 3,818

    nochop
    Member
    from norcal

    Good info mr.8
     
  9. tombstone
    Joined: Jan 15, 2006
    Posts: 489

    tombstone
    Member
    from sk.canada

    Thanx V8 .... going to follow thru with your advice.....
     
  10. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,367

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    With apologies to the OP and others reading this post I have a somewhat relevant question that I am hoping some readers with knowledge of E-brake systems can advise me on.

    I have a champ car replica build going on. I plan to have both a 4-wheel conventional hydraulic brake system combined with a hand brake to actuate the rear brakes only to use to throw the car sideways into a corner (dare I say "drift" it?). My thought was to use the E-brake cables to apply the rear brakes only. No ratcheting locking mechanism obviously. Do you see any major problems using the hand lever occasionally to do this? I was going to use shortened OEM cables, or aftermarket, if I can find the correct lengths. Its for a nine inch posi rear end. Many thanks

    brake 22.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  11. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,269

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    I'm with V-8 Bob, there must be something wrong with your set-up. I have Lokar E-Brake kit's on my '32 and my '46 and did not need to fabricate anything to make them work. I get my car Safety 23 checked every year from N.S.R.A. and never an issue when they ask to engage the emergency brake when in drive.
     
    olscrounger likes this.

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