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Technical Dodge/mopar 318 question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rj27buick, May 6, 2022.

  1. Rj27buick
    Joined: Feb 14, 2012
    Posts: 106

    Rj27buick
    Member

    Wiring a 1934 Dodge 4 dr - has an ‘82 318. Trying to figure out where the coolant sensor is/goes!!! I know it sounds basic - but would appreciate a little help.


    Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

    reagen and Oldtmtech like this.
  2. greybeard360
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 2,079

    greybeard360
    Member

    It is right behind the thermostat housing.
     
    Truckdoctor Andy and egads like this.
  3. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,269

    Budget36
    Member

    I believe your coolant sensor is right behind the tstat housing in your 2nd pic.
     
  4. Fitty Toomuch
    Joined: Jun 29, 2010
    Posts: 328

    Fitty Toomuch
    Member
    from WVa

    Looks like yours is center under the fuel line
     

  5. Looks like a 2nd one under return spring beside thermostat housing
    Is’82 the “lean burn” system?
     
  6. Rj27buick
    Joined: Feb 14, 2012
    Posts: 106

    Rj27buick
    Member

    Should there be coolant when I remove the sensor? I initially thought that was the sensor but my gauge shows no movement. All other gauges working fine. Was going to replace and thought I might see coolant when I removed but it was dry. Then research showed that could be a “knock sensor” which I didn’t know existed!
    Appreciate the help
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  7. I was trying to help,,,but lost all my concentration !
    Good looking old Dodge car,,,,,good looking Mopar alternator,,,,,good looking Dodge engine,,,,,318 is great engine,,,,looks really clean and nice .
    Electronic box on the firewall,,,,and then an HEI,,,,, come on ,,,,,,Blasphemy !

    You’re right ,,,,that’s not the temp sender .

    Tommy
     
  8. Rj27buick
    Joined: Feb 14, 2012
    Posts: 106

    Rj27buick
    Member

    Oldtmtech - do you mean the plug? Under the spring toward the front looks like a vacuum fitting.
     
  9. Rj27buick
    Joined: Feb 14, 2012
    Posts: 106

    Rj27buick
    Member

    Desoto29hemi - thanks for your feedback. This is only my second time wiring a hot rod. I will come back to you for further advice once I get this coolant question solved. Greatly appreciate the feedback
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  10. Sorry man,,,,,,just kidding really .
    You can remove the fitting that used be used for another purpose ,,,,,look in the lower left of your engine pic .
    The fitting beside the thermostat housing with the two vacuum nipples on it is a ported vacuum switch .
    You won’t need it for your application .
    You can screw a temp sending unit in there .

    Tommy
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2022
  11. Should be water under that fitting
     
  12. Make sure you're using the correct part for a temperature gauge. If Mopar was anything like GM, a "switch" (either open or closed circuit only) was used with a warning light. A temp "sensor" (variable resistance) was used for temperature gauges. Also not sure about Mopar, but GM vehicles of this vintage also used as many as three coolant sensors or switches. One for the I/P guage or light, one for the engine control module and maybe a third for an electric engine cooling fan.
     
  13. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,979

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's a vacuum switch That I believe was the ported vacuum switch and is now N/A. 318_LI.jpg
     
  14. jaxx
    Joined: Mar 22, 2008
    Posts: 402

    jaxx
    Member

    Mr 48 is correct - that is a vac port and should be capped - the temp sensor is right under your fuel line and if it were me i would replace it with a mech temp gauge - I don't trust electronic stuff when it comes to engine temp - sometimes by the time it tells you that you have a problem it is to late - just a thought - jaxx
     
  15. Rj27buick
    Joined: Feb 14, 2012
    Posts: 106

    Rj27buick
    Member

    Thanks Jaxx
    I have pulled the sensor directly behind the thermostat housing under the gas line and there is no sign of coolant? Should I see coolant? 0E54C2B2-C20E-47D9-974F-4D4012D7D08E.jpeg looks dry???
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  16. What does the back side of the sensor look like ?
    It should be solid,,,,,because you were right earlier,,,,it’s a knock sensor.
    There shouldn’t be any water in that boss there .

    On the right side of the intake,,,,,,behind the dipstick area,,,,,where the front intake bolts are .
    There is a cad plated plug screwed in there,,,,,,you can remove that and place a temp sender in there if you choose .

    Tommy
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2022
  17. Rj27buick
    Joined: Feb 14, 2012
    Posts: 106

    Rj27buick
    Member

    Thanks desotohemi - I thought that might be the case but wanted to get someone to verify before I remove the plug. Appreciate the help
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  18. You’re welcome,,,,,just trying to help .
    There is a vast amount of knowledge here,,,,,,,I am just a slight speck on the windshield compared to the talent here .
    Not many Mopar guys here,,,,,but still several ,,,,,everyone tries to help .

    Tommy
     
  19. There's some photos online that show the temp. sensor going into the manifold where that square drive pipe plug is, just to the left of the thermostat housing.

    Check the length of the temperature probe to make sure it doesn't bottom out in the coolant passage. Some pics showed an adapter/extension being used to raise the sensor maybe 1/2" to 3/4" if necessary, and possibly to adapt to the thread size of the temp. sensor.
     
  20. Rj27buick
    Joined: Feb 14, 2012
    Posts: 106

    Rj27buick
    Member

    Thanks everyone- I was able to loosen the fitting that had the vacuum looking fitting on the top and there is coolant there. Just need to drain some out and get the new sensor fitted.
    As always the HAMB comes through for someone like me with very little experience in this field. But a desire to build a hot rod!!!!
    Thanks - hopefully I’ll post a working temp gauge in the next few days.
     
    Truckdoctor Andy likes this.
  21. lemondana
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 226

    lemondana
    Member
    from Lincoln NE

    The little item between the two front right intake bolts is where the temp sensor usually is on the smallblock Mopars. Unless you are going to run a mechanical gauge-then you need one of the larger holes.
     
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  22. garyf
    Joined: Aug 11, 2006
    Posts: 288

    garyf
    Member

    The temp. sender is located where Lemondana and Desoto wrote. The vacuum switch is temperature controlled and was used to keep your egr valve inop. when the engine was cold and working when operating temp reached.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2022
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  23. Rj27buick
    Joined: Feb 14, 2012
    Posts: 106

    Rj27buick
    Member

    Success! idling at around 155 steady.
    again thanks to all for your input. 1C9038CD-8416-47F0-A37E-5E7890DB562B.jpeg BFAA6ED3-5606-4EAC-A0CE-B5B55E3A51C6.jpeg
     
    Oldtmtech and Desoto291Hemi like this.
  24. Good job, you don't need the temperature controlled vacuum switch.
    I agree with the other suggestions that the first sender right behind the thermostat was probably a knock sensor. If you ever replace the factory manifold with an aluminum aftermarket one, just get a regular nonemission version and it won't have the extra holes.
     
  25. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,090

    gene-koning
    Member

    That 318 is going to be a lot more efficient, and will stay in better condition long term, if you change the thermostat to either a new one, or one with a higher operating temp. A steady 180 to 190 will work much better.
     
  26. lemondana
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 226

    lemondana
    Member
    from Lincoln NE

    Are you running a 727 or 904 automatic transmission? If so, it looks like you could possibly use some help on the so called kickdown linkage. Can you post a few more pictures of your throttle bracket and all of the linkage on the side of the carburetor. If you don't have this hooked up and functioning correctly, you will burn your transmission out fairly soon.
     
    73RR likes this.
  27. Rj27buick
    Joined: Feb 14, 2012
    Posts: 106

    Rj27buick
    Member

    Lemondana - thanks for the input. Yes 727 and I do NOT have the kick down linkage setup yet. I need to research that. I am “yard” driving now just to test everything and it seems to shift fine but I will look into the kick down linkage. It’s a 727 with a lokar shift.

    Gene - I believe the thermostat is a 160 - you are suggesting a slightly higher temp is better for this engine. Appreciate the advice.

    Thanks
    66F66531-4223-4AC1-A695-0CDB26E89A99.jpeg Pulled it out yesterday - more testing.
     
    bchctybob likes this.
  28. Rj27 ,
    Yes,,,,you need the kick down linkage installed and functional,,,,,,,the transmission won’t last long without it .
    You can motor around the house without it,,,,,but not any trips if any length .
    Get it done soon .

    Tommy
     
    73RR likes this.
  29. Rj27buick
    Joined: Feb 14, 2012
    Posts: 106

    Rj27buick
    Member

    Ok thanks - will research and get this done properly.
     
  30. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,303

    stubbsrodandcustom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Spring tx

    Yeah, the kickdown controls the fluid pressure in the trans, too low and it will burn out the clutches.

    The proper adjustment is hard to do with aftermarket stuff, but I normally go until I get a 1-2 upshift about 15 mph with light throttle. Some books call for more or less, But 15 mph can vary in rear gears and tire sizes also. 20 MPH for 2.70 Gears, 15 Mph for 3.73 Gears.
     
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