You could have polished it to show off your work, but that wouldn't make it work any better. Did you test it yet?!
Polishing shroud was out of the question, first my alloy welding is crap, second I'm not into to much bling, I feel it go's unnoticed painted black. I have only tested by holding a sheet of newspaper up to grille, paper gets sucked to grille at engine idle, now all I need is a hot day. Glen
I know yours is done, but maybe this will help someone else. I'm not a talented fabricator, so I look for parts that can be adapted. In this case, with my 54 Plymouth, I needed a fan shroud. So off to the junkyard I go. It's hard to see what I did, but I scored two metal shrouds off Toyota pickups. I arranged them so all I had to do was cut and join them together to cover the radiator. I didn't have to make the rounded opening -- just accommodate it. Bad picture, but I hope you get the idea. (I've never seen 180* in the hemi.)
Needed more space for my recently purchased chopped 34, 5 window coupe ( On order from CW components composite bodies, sorry guys its only fiberglass as steel bodies are hard to find and super expensive here in OZ, My plan is for a Bonneville style coupe ) so I have doubled the size of my garage, was 12 meters buy 7 meters - now 12 meters buy 13 meters, My buddy and I done all the work, I can now have all my machines spaced out for use without having to put them away / stacked in the corner. Check out pics. Glen
Happy so far, just need to do wiring and complete gutters outside. Even though its doubled in size I'm sure it wont be big enough. Glen
Purchased Vega box from a shop in Quensland - rod and custon { I think ), they are on Ebay. But I ended up using a HQ Holden box as some others had bad reports with the Vega one. Glen
...which is basically a RHD Saginaw 525. I can give examples of others who have thrown the 'vega' in the rubbish with frustration and ended up replacing it with a Holden box.
Recently had a leaking exhaust that I could not find until I removed some header wrap, my cheap Chinese headers were rooted after only 18 months and approx 5000kms. I plan to make my own headers in the future but for now I welded up these units until I decide what type I will fabricate. ( I plan to keep the same style of header but would like to use a straight pipe instead of a cone, or maybe a torque tube type ). A few pics, Glen
LOL. In 1968 I went to Australia for a plant startup. That was the FIRST thing I was warned about. Don't say "rooting" for the home team. Ben
Had more header issues recently, more cracks in cheap Chinese headers. Wrap removed and headers repaired, hopefully good enough to last the summer - I plan to fab my own headers soon. All I had was white high temp paint but I think it looks ok. Glen
Last weekend a bolt came loose from underneath my centre carb and took out a valve, piston and damaged the bore, the 327 block is already 040 up and may require a sleeve and rebore. I am so pissed off but have decided to build a stout 350 / 383 and make some decent horsepower. Today I purchased a new 4 bolt 350 block, now the fun and expense can begin. Glen
Not gonna like that post... I run vintage 94's I don't think there's any bolts under there...maybe butterfly screws...Obviously you must have something completely different...that is ones worst nightmare really...it looks to have been 3'16 " or more...glad your okay, when stuff like that happens stuff can happen...
Carbs are Rochester 2 barrels, there is a bolt under the carb that connects the base plate to the carb body, that would normally hit intake if came loose, bolt about 3/4 inch long, but due to the spacers I made to raise carbs when the bolt came loose as well as the other two ( located on outside of carb ) when we noticed the carb was loose - car was running ok at the time. As we rocked the carb to determine it was loose the bolt slipped passed the spacer - this could not happen if carbs were bolted down tight, Its unfortunate as there was just enough room for bolt to pass spacer and go into intake. The gasket was also holding it in but after 3 years of use and vibration / wear and tear it reared its ugly head. Glen
A guy on market place had it sitting around, he decided to go LS, today I scored a brand new Eagle stroker crank 4340 for under half new price from another local guy. He has other stuff like new bearings, oil pump etc that I will be going back for when I have more cash. Glen
Latest update, block being bored 4.060, with one new sleeve, new 3.750 scat cast crank, new stock style rods, comp cam XE284 hydraulic cam, roller tip rockers, flat top pistons. I brought a set of 350 ported heads but decided to use original heads after porting them. Also will rebuild carbs and run a screen on intake to prevent any crap entering engine again. Ive spent lots of time porting heads, machined them for guide plates and screw in studs. Rotating assembly currently being balanced, will need to clearance block and assemble engine when back from machine shop, hopefully on the road in 2 weeks. Glen
While waiting for my short block to be finished I decided to clean front of car, paint grille shell gloss black, paint steering knuckles and D shaft, check brakes, king pins, change a couple of tie rod ends etc. Glen
Engine all built now and back in car, will be starting it up in the next couple of days, hopefully all goes well. Glen
Car finally back on the road, engine started without issues and 1st test drive today went ok, this new engine has lots more torque and the car sounds like a real hotrod. Still need to play with timing and carbys for best performance, I plan to do this over the next few days. Glen
Great car. Your DMV sounds more draconian than our FAA and experimental aircraft. Your car was built and run for many years without problems - but here's a list of stuff you need to fix. For history see if you can find any car clubs on the web that are near where you bought the car. Someone may remember it from shows or a local Cars&Coffee.
Had a problem tuning new engine the other day, initially there was a horrible knocking / slapping sound followed by severe back firing through the center carby, initially I thought the worst as engine was still running in, I eventually found the issue, cheap fucking Chinese rockers ( I thought stamped new steel rockers would be strong enough for a mild engine and the rollers would be the weak point not the steel itself ). Anyway pics tell the story. I ended up putting the 55 year old rockers back on the engine and now its running ok - defiantly dodged a bullet this time. A timely reminder that cheap isn't good and good isn't cheap. I know its my own fault and should have known better but sometimes budget and common sense evade me. Glen
Just qurious, what brand, if any, was the roller rockers? I was about to order a similar Comp Cams set…. Great car!
They don't look like Comps. My guess is Chinese comp-a-likes. Testing my memory, but I think I've seen that injury before.
The Jalopy Journal
