Technical model A steering arms

I've surfed the web and cant find a promising answer to this question, so i am coming to the hot rod gods for guidance . Does anyone make drop steering arms that fit the 1928-31 model a spindles? its a the smaller bolt hole and layout. thanks,

 

you could put '32/'34 spindles on your A axle.

 

i knew this was coming, soooooo here is why i dont want to. i bought this roadster project that came with a bunch of new parts. some of the new parts were the juice brake kit from boling bro's that bolt onto the model a spindles "smaller bolt patter". this kit is pretty pricey so i am trying to find a way to build this without having to source out all new brake parts to fit later spindles.

 

If you can't find what you want,makiing your own maybe in the cards.
Some aftermarket arms are not good anyways,cuz the're sold to fit both front and rear steer{tie rod out front or rear of axle}<those are junk,they have zero ackerman* built give more probs then they fix.
So if you do make your own,build in the right ackerman

 

Now I have to go out and look at the Model A axle and wishbone I have and see why you can't just heat and bend the steering arms.
I'd say that no one makes them because there is no demand for them.

 

I demand that someone should make them!!! haha, i saw an old post that someone heated and rotated the ball 180 deg ....

 

I believe that the '32-'34 spindles will swap in without having to swap anything else. That is why they were suggested. Someone will correct me if I am wrong.

They have later-style integrated arms, and can be heated and bent to clear stuff, if needed.

 

There is even a pair in the classifieds: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...e-item-2-below-is-sold.1262144/#post-14460151

 

these have the smaller bolt hole patter as the model A? if thats the case then yes i will swap.

 

Yes. Do it.

 

In any case, fresh bushings in the spindles are never a bad idea. Any good machine shop can ream them to size, for cheap, if a local HAMBer doesn't have a reamer you can use.

 

i would need the bearing size to match up as well as the bolt holes..

 

As far as I know, and again someone will correct me, the bearings are the same.

 

Ford passenger car front wheel bearings are the same from 28 to 48.

 

If you do rebush a different set of spindles figure out your drop first. Heating the spindle may effect the ID size of the bushings so get you drop worked out then rebush. As far as backing plate pattern at one time the up grade for brakes on the A was swapping on 32 brakes.

 

'32 / '34 spindles have the same backing plate bolt pattern as the Model A spindle

 

Is the reason you want dropped arms to get the linkage under the wishbones?

 

Not the bones just under the frame, it’s right on the frame

 

Sounds like you’re getting some great advice here.

 

You can modify Model A steering arms without heating and twisting 180 degrees. The picture shows what I did on my roadster pickup; cut the old steering ball off, thickened the end of the arm with 3/16 steel cut to match the diameter and welded in place, new steering ball pressed into arm from the bottom with the stem welded on top. No bending no change in Ackerman.

 

X2^^

 

So you cut the ball off, do you have to drill out the center in order to push a new ball on?

 

You can also buy the correct reamer from speedway to make the ball for 32-34 ford bolt in place instead of welding

 

Yes, you do have to drill for the stem of the ball after cutting the original ball off. Rusty Valley is correct about the tapered reamer; that can also be used on the '32-'34 spindles to taper up halfway from the bottom so that the tapered stem bolt-on style balls can be installed facing down. Like the A spindle I showed, that reduces the amount of bending the spindle arm requires, especially with a dropped axle.

Compare the thickness of the boss on the end of the steering arm in the picture posted by Oldtmtech and you will see the difference made by thickening the boss. I was also able to use grease seals on my rod ends because of the flat area created by making the bosses thicker.

 

Not to be nitpicky....but you should have the king pin bushings honed instead of reamed. Reaming leaves less than ideal surface finish, with high and low spots and will wear out much quicker than having them honed to size with even surface finish.

 

Maybe so. I have not had any trouble with reaming, with a Ford branded Rotunda piloted reamer.

 

yup, gotta be a piloted reamer or you dont stand a chance. I have reamers, but the nearby engine shop will do them on the sunnen hone cheap enough that I prefer that method. New king pins will vary a half a thou, and the hone guy will catch that when fitting.

 

I'm not saying you'll have trouble. It works. I've done it. Just that honing is a better method if the opportunity exists.

 

Where have you had them honed locally?

 

Im not debating what method is better because frankly I dont know. I just want to say ive heated and twisted model a spindles 180 degrees and it was simple, took little time and was solid. I enjoyed that car for miles and years. Id be comfortable cutting and welding or heating ive done both but heating up and bending a spindle arm is almost always faster and looks nice.