Toque ... I like to try different ones on until I find one that fits me well. What those specs are differs from person to person (sorry, couldn't resist)
I don't know the answer, but it is obvious what the question was. Come on guys, the smart assed comments are really not a good look.
Although the pic below may look better to some, a toque is much warmer for our North American winters
I fixed your title for ya.. and yes. while funny.... let's help a guy out. Your friend, the worlds worst sPelloR.
3/8" fine thread would probably get 35-40 ft lbs. If we knew whether it was a Packard or Oldsmobile (or a Ford?) you were working on, we could probably give a more useful answer. Sorry, I can't keep track of what everyone is building.
Bruce Lancaster (RIP) posted the following axle housing bolt torque info. in 2007. "Banjo to axle bolts don't have any known spec...but be aware that threads in case are class three fit to prevent leakage (I think that's the correct terminology, anyhow bolts are standard, threads in banjo are extra deep) and should not be cleaned with any normal tap. Torque allowance using a regular spec by bolt size might be a bit too loose due to drag of threads...they are a bit hard to turn when right." When I installed those bolts on my 40 Ford, I tightened them down until they were very snug and then about an 1/8 turn more. I did not use any washers and made sure I installed the bolts in the same holes they came out of. I did apply Non-Hardening Permatex to the threads of each bolt.
Hello, Here is a good question: How did anyone decide what those torque specs were for every nut and bolt in every location or application? I asked my brother one day as I was tightening all of the head bolts an then later, the rocker nuts and other wrenching items. Here was his answer. They (factories or teaching schools for mechanics) used the technique of using a dial to see how much twist a bolt/nut could take. When it snapped, that was the obvious limit. At the time, it sounded well thought out and simple. But, that left many unanswered questions of different options for different people. Jnaki I was the person who went around doing the last torque wrenching on the SBC 283 motor and then later the 292 C.I. SBC 671 motor, when we got to an afternoon of putting things together. My brother knew I wanted to do as much stuff as possible and gave me the torque wrench. First is was the dial pointer style that left the final tightened nut its place. Then a few months later, there was a new "click" torque wrench to take over the guessing without the eyes on a little pointy needle. So, when my son was little and asked what that sign on the bridge meant... Here was the impetus for my answer... which brought up a "high eyebrows" look from my wife... along with some chuckles. In the beginning of putting a series of nuts and bolts together back when I was younger, I would tighten a nut on something else, until it could not move. Then sometimes, a point of no return would happen and a nut would fall off. So, with early gorilla tactics in hand, my brother was wise to tell me the origin ...and time moves to the next generation of stories... YRMV
I notice that most of the time it's the 'spell correct' programs that screw up the words. Lack of 'proofreading' is where the spelling failures are coming from, typically. I want to look like a smarty-pants when I post so I usually proofread before I click the reply button, then I proofread it again after it's posted....... and I still make mistakes.
There are charts for modern cap screws used with the corresponding marks. Prewar ones did not have the marks and I use torque numbers between a grade 2 and 5 but never higher.