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Technical brake flaring

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1930artdeco, Apr 25, 2022.

  1. Hi All,

    OK, so I used a LISLE brake flaring tool to make the flares for my brake lines. However, several joints seem to leak a bit from around the pipe-not the threads. Is there a trick to making these not leak? I have noticed that if you look at the tube edge on sometimes there is an angle-or at least it appears there is one.

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
  2. B.A.KING
    Joined: Apr 6, 2005
    Posts: 4,039

    B.A.KING
    Member

    Does it make double flare?
     
  3. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,594

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Cut it off and make it again, if you still have problems then maybe the tool is the problem.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2022
    joel likes this.
  4. A perfect flair doesn't leak, I was taught to file the brake line before you do the double flair and do not over tighten to avoid any splits. HRP
     

  5. King-Yes it does the double flare

    Saltflats-Yep I will have to cut it and start all over:mad::(. As far as I can tell, the tool is working correctly. I am not sure of the junction block up front so I may just go with a Mustang MC so I can plumb straight to the front and rear lines.

    HRP-When you say file do you mean you take a fine file and scuff up the end that gets flared?

    Mike
     
    saltflats likes this.
  6. Pete Eastwood
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,324

    Pete Eastwood
    Member
    from california

    Prepping the end of the tube before flaring is the key to good flares.
    You have to undo all the distortion the tubing cutter creates.
    Deburr the inside, lightly file the sharp corner on the out side & file the end flat.
    A very small dab of white grease on the flaring mandrel helps too.
     
    rod1, chevyfordman, Paul and 21 others like this.
  7. nochop
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 3,818

    nochop
    Member
    from norcal

    I cut all mine with a dremel cut wheel, then chucked it in the flairing clamp to file 100% flat. No leaks and I did it on stainless tube. Don’t forget to ream the ID.
     
    1oldtimer, catdad49 and wandi harry like this.
  8. the oil soup
    Joined: May 19, 2013
    Posts: 277

    the oil soup
    Member
    from Tucson,AZ

    After cutting the tubing you need to deburr the id and chamfer the end before clamping it into the tool correctly. 780DF748-E293-42B2-BE54-FF17685BAE61.jpeg
     
  9. Maybe that is what I am doing wrong, not getting it 100% flat before and after the flaring. The brakes hold pressure enough to get her on and off of a trailer for the move. Then I will replace some lines after I practice a bit more. Actually I am surprised I am doing as well as I am with no experience-just common sense (well sort of:D)

    Mike
     
  10. It's best to cut the tube with a saw or cutoff wheel... a tubing cutter work-hardens the end.
    Then put the tube in the flaring fixture with the cut end protruding through the flat side (non-flare-side) of the fixture. Use that as your filing guide to get it deburred and square.
    Slightly deburr the inside and outside of the tube.
    Follow the normal flaring instructions, taking care to NOT overtighten the tool!!! Don't totally collapse the flare into itself... leave it a bit 'under flared' and let the assembly/tightening sequence complete the process. The idea is to make the tube conform to the fitting as it is tightened.
    Good luck!!!
     
  11. Thank you 28 that is good set of instructions. And thanks to everyone for giving me advice. It is such a good feeling to see her starting to come together and almost be ready for the road. Well, she is year off but from what I started with she is leaps and bounds closer to the road.

    Mike
     
    catdad49 and lothiandon1940 like this.
  12. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,802

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Expensive but I bought an Eastwood flare tool. Other companies are now advertising it. After the first flare I knew I had bought a great tool. Every double flare or bubble end is perfect. I’ve used a Lisle for years and others too at work but the Eastwood is a godsend to me. I’ll be using it again tomorrow on a new fuel line.
     
  13. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,594

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    One problem if you you are using a tubing from a roll, it need's to be straight on the end you flare.
     
  14. The tube has to be cut square, and you need to be deburr and chamfer inside and out slightly. A little lube while you are flaring helps (don't forget to clean that lube off before using the brake line).

    As mentioned above, a good flaring tool is very helpful. I also bought an Eastwood flaring tool a few years ago and couldn't be happier with a tool purchase.
     
  15. Salflats, I am using it from a roll so I straighten it out as best I can. Maybe I am not getting it straight enough, so that is probably another issue.

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
    catdad49 and lothiandon1940 like this.
  16. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,916

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It's a learned skill.
     
  17. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 6,540

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    Agree. Deburr and patience.
     
    35 Sedan likes this.
  18. Harv
    Joined: Jan 16, 2008
    Posts: 974

    Harv
    Member
    from Sydney

    The more I think about it, the more I like this advice. I normally tighten the flaring tool as much as I can. The idea of letting the fitting "bed in" the last bit of the flare makes better sense.

    FWIW, I use a US-made MasterCool tool. Love it. This jigger is great for internal and external deburring:
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252441659029?hash=item3ac6b20695:g:GBYAAOSwgY9XckIa&frcectupt=true

    Cheers,
    Harv
     
    egads, catdad49 and Just Gary like this.
  19. dalesnyder
    Joined: Feb 6, 2008
    Posts: 609

    dalesnyder
    Member

    Another free tip. If your using the twin bar flare tool, keep the bars even (height wise) when you tighten them. If not the head oof the flare may be bent over a bit.
     
    Algoma56, bobss396, catdad49 and 2 others like this.
  20. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,904

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Rolling the roughly straightened tube between 2 pieces of ply, 1/2" minimum (and about 3' x 1' for maneagability) will straighten it out. Long lengths might be a challenge and require some imagination!

    The threads themselves don't not seal a tube nut, they provide the clamping force that makes the seal. Pipe thread is of course a different matter.

    I guess I've been lucky with brake pipes, including stainless, all these years! Cant say the same for 3/8" stainless fuel line. Had to get creative!!

    Chris
     
    Algoma56 and catdad49 like this.
  21. WZ JUNK
    Joined: Apr 20, 2001
    Posts: 1,848

    WZ JUNK
    Member
    from Neosho, MO

    As a backup or emergency situation these have been a life saver. 3/16" copper flare gasket. B00YTF8ZTK

    I have found that many of the new fittings I bought recently are one time use only. The metal is so soft that it forms a groove or distortion and it will not reseal when reinstalled. I do not remember having this problem in the past.
     
    joel and bobss396 like this.
  22. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,327

    Russco
    Member
    from Central IL

    If nobody has mentioned it either NiCopp line is much easier to work with too.
     
  23. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,672

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    All that I will add is be aware of the tubing you are buying. I have a number of flare tools from the old double clamp bar to the newer Eastwood like tool that use a split clamp block. The newer tool works like a charm as long as the tubing OD is on spec. I have found tubing from several sources that 3/16" tube is undersized. It's in the 0.184" to 0.185" range and not 0.187". The clamp blocks on the newer tool doesn't clamp the undersized tubing enough to prevent it being pushed out of position when forming the flare. The old double bar tool still works ok. So I now take calipers with me when shopping for tubing or by online from the one or two places that sells spec tubing.
     
  24. I borrow a Mastercool kit when I do lines. I now cut them with a fine hacksaw blade, I made up soft wood blocks to hold the line in my bench vise. I file the cut end square, deburr it inside and out. I do the initial flare, look it over and clean up anything I don't like before doing the final flare.
     
    chevyfordman and Algoma56 like this.
  25. Thanks, these are on my Amazon wish list. I have one pesky flare at my master that seeps no matter what I do, it may even be the mating surface in the offshore master.
     
  26. And very important to have the mating surfaces surgically clean - get into the female part with a flashlight and make sure no crap is on there. If there already was something on there, and it has been squished into the brass surface, sometimes only a new replacement fitting will fix the weep.
     

  27. The quote above should be viewed as an absolute requirement :)

    After working with this stuff, I will NEVER go back to steel line. It is so much easier to flare and bend too.
     
    Blue One and seb fontana like this.
  28. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 4,920

    phat rat
    Member

    I also use a Mastercool. But I don't buy rolls of tubing I buy 6' sections and go from there
     
  29. MMM1693
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 1,152

    MMM1693
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    X2 on everything Jimmy six said
     
    Blue One likes this.
  30. TRENDZ
    Joined: Oct 16, 2018
    Posts: 386

    TRENDZ

    FFA437AF-47E7-4854-9C76-E3D11259F2AA.jpeg As recommended, no tubing cutter. Work hardening makes steel or ss more likely to crack while flaring.
    A nice square cut with a good deburing inside and out is also essential to minimize the likelihood of cracking while flaring.
    With 3/16” tubing I use a drill bit by hand to debur the inside, and a hand file for the outside. All other sizes of tubing I use a Ridgid brand tube deburring tool.
    I also strongly recommend the Eastwood flaring tool. It makes the job much nicer to do, and the results are terrific with stell or ss.
    I personally don’t like using the nicop, but I’m admittedly a little strange.
     

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