I have a V8 (26 spline) F-Body NWC T-5 between a mildly built 354 Chrysler hemi, and 4.11 posi rear, and I've been known to drag race it on occasion. It's been 4 years and about 8,000 miles and I haven't broken it yet. I think the combination of a light car, skinny bias ply tires and not banging gears when I shift has helped preserve it, but I do drive it hard.
I’ve abused the used t5 in my ot 5.0 Mustang for a lot of miles and a lot of burnouts and it hasn’t broken yet. Drag radials might kill it this summer... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
<<< I have a W/C T-5 with Astro Performance gears behind a 383 with 5lbs. of boost. It dynoed 465 HP, 599 lbs. torque. I use a stock Z-28 11" clutch and 235/75R-15 tires with an open 9" (3:25 gears). The car weighs 2700 empty. You have to roll out in 1st, and you can't power shift or the clutch goes up in smoke. The clutch is the fuseable link. Once safely in 2nd, you better hang on! It has about 80,000 miles on it and is a blast to drive! Oh yeah, it gets around 18-19 mpg too.
I'm new to this forum but you guys seem to know very well how and what to do with t5 and 350 so if you can help me it would be great thank you in advance. So I have a 91 camaro RS took out the the 5.0 to put a 350 I got from a 72 c10 I already rebuild it so I cant look back so I bought a 11 inch flywheel with an 11 inch clutch due to the fact the 350 has a 2 piece rear main seal.once I tried bolting up my t5 it couldnt fit because flywheel scrapes around the bell housing what would you suggest can I just change the bell housing to make it work or what options do I have
I bought a wrecked 89 Camaro v8 with 80 000 km about 10 years ago installed it in my 37 Chevy 15 degrees tilted like it comes in the camaro. Used a hanging pedal set up from Chuck Neal Corporation - I copied the master cylinder bore size that came in the camaro because it was operating the slave ( of course new) that came in the camaro. Used the first two or three inches of shifter arm and welded on a longer aftermarket shifter arm - had it rechromed. The shifter comes through the floor right where you would want it to . Had to have the usual stuff done to the driveshaft. All this went behind a goodwrench 350. I don’t drive the car really hard but I do blast through the gears quite a bit. Hell I drove the s#*t out of it today! Do some guys break the t5 - yeah but some guys break crowbars?
ive got one behind a 265 in a model A and havent had any problems with it in terms of holding up. one thing I would encourage others to do is splurge on the 5/8 spacer plate instead of cutting the input shaft. if you do cut the input shaft know that you have to also extend the splines. we did that on mine and the clutch feels a little sticky sometimes now...
There is a member on here named Inline makes and sells adapters for several different motors. Bought one for a SBC good product at a reasonable price. Web site is Vintage Metal Works
World class Camaro T5 with a S10 tail housing in my Avatar. It's been in it around 20 years with no problems.
When I put a '89 S10 T5 behind my 250 six, I studied the recommendation to use a Jeep 10 spline input shaft and shorten the nose and the bearing retainer. Glad I thought this through first, because that would leave only about a half inch of spline engagement with the clutch. Probably wouldn't shear with the meager power of a stock 250, but I was worried about uneven wear and the resulting poor dis-engagement. I opted to use the Vintage Metal Works spacer and took about 5/16" off the bearing retainer. With the Jeep 10 spline input shaft I now have a good 1 1/8" spline engagement and all 10 1/2" Chevy clutch parts. View attachment 5371637 View attachment 5371637
The Jalopy Journal
