Here is a list of rearend measurements you were asking for. Sorry if it is not real clear. I need a new printer Hope this helps
Could be misinformed; but I was told that the Granada rear with the back cover was a "lighter duty" rear than the 8" it replaced.
With the stock 9 inch diff. in a car, check the universal/driveshaft clearance to the floor tunnel, especially if you want to go low. The offset pinion can cause universal interference on bumps with the torque tube/driveshaft floor tunnel. I am changing over to the center pinion location 9 inch because of this issue in my 35. It has CE springs, 2 inch lowering blocks.
Thanks for the heads up. What does changing over to a center pinion location 9 inch involve? Is that a whole rear-end change? Which one will you be using?
In my case with a stock 57 inch wide 9 inch, I am selling my old diff housing and axles and and have ordered a custom center pinion 59 inch diff. housing with Dutchman axles, keeping the third member and eliminating my wheel lug adapters. It added up better value than cutting and welding the housing and changing the axles, and I get exactly what I want regarding width, pinion angle, wheel lug dimensions and brake choice. Modifying your floor to suit the driveshaft is an other option, I didnt want to go there.
You can take an Explorer 8.8 rear and shorten the long tube to fit the short side axle, and that works out to about 57”
Something like '67-'76 year range. Don't remember if the pinion or the housing were offset; but looking at a picture of an A we used a Bronco rear in, it looks like housing was pretty much centered, so I would guess the pinion had some offset. Someone on here will know for sure.
I have a Granada/Monarch 8" in my 40 coupe, with a 3:80 Trac loc, Alan at 8 & 9 rears in south Jersey said that it is good for up to 500 HP. My little 350/300 crate engine will not exceed that for sure, I do not have driveline issues with the floor either.
Yep, when in doubt it undoubtedly will be THAT! ^^^^^^^^^ Years ago when that was the big buzz word in IFS conversions a friend of mine was building his shops' suspension product line he stated in his catalog....why would you use Fords most under engineered suspension components.
I laid out all the body cushions where I thought they were supposed to be on the frame (the directions that came with the cushions is not too specific.) Turns out I had to move a bunch of them after I lowered the body. I took lots of pictures just to record their correct position (I'm sparing you from having to look at all of those), but I am still unsure of the location of the Type F cushion (more on that later.) I lifted the body and removed the jack-stands under neath. I used some high-tech specialty alignment tools (screwdrivers) to make sure the body was properly located to the frame: "Houston, we have touch-down...." but only after a couple of hours of monkeying around. I had to block up the body again so I could lengthen the chains that the come-alongs were hooked to. I had not considered that this new suspension is a few inches lower than the old. Underneath and looking forward, you can see the cushions sitting atop the crossmember frames. (Dang!! Look at the shine and smoothness of the sheet-metal on my 40's belly! This car is 83 years old!!!!) However, the body didn't set down on the cushions at the rear of the frame (note screw-driver shaft showing above the cushion.) And here is the other side (again, note shaft of screwdriver showing above cushion.) Clearance looks okay between axle center-section and body (maybe 2 and a half inches) Finally, I'm trying to figure out just where the Type F cushions go (identified by blue arrow). It doesn't have a tab (red arrows) like the other cushions that set in a hole to locate it. It only has shoulders that set down on either side of the frame rail that keep it in place. Apparently it's one of those "that looks about the right place" parts, so I set it midway between two Type B cushions (the guys with the tabs.) Anyone know where the Type F specifcally goes? So, next session I'll put the fenders on and see how it looks. I'm thinking "lower than it used to" (remember the bottom of my wooden wheels are on the dollies which adds about 2 and a half inches to the height) No? (I only look taller here because of the hair....) More fun to come...
Thanks! I am hoping to hear some observations on where the Type F cushions should be located (or how people decide where to locate them) and why the rear cross rail and body have that gap. Thinking about that, maybe that gap is partially filled by the gas tank mounting flange?
The tank flanges are on the ends and sit on the frame rails. I would add a shim to fill that gap; at least till you find something off elsewhere to account for it.
I know that the old original cushions were pretty squished down but these new cushions are pretty stout and don't look lke they'll squish down much at all. On the curved part of the frame (the side rails that are curved to go over the axle) there is a cushion on the rear sloping face but the rest of the frame in that area has no cushions between it and the body so there is a contiuous gap between body and frame. Here is the cushion in position on the slope of the side rail. I suppose when that is tightened down the gap would be reduced at the rear frame cross-piece but I'd expect that there would still be some gap remaining. As you say, I'll probably still have to shim it.
Not sure if this pic of my old 40 frame helps.....also looked at my 1938 truck frame - about the gas tank - didn't see anything.....
Scott your doing a great job and should be very proud. I have two 40’s, a pick up and station wagon. One has dropped axle, split bones, front discs, 8 in rear, 350/400. The other has 350/350/9 in and forbidden front suspension. Both are lowered both ride like shit around town as I live in a state with well traveled roads, on the open highway they both ride great. I see you have started with the M two stuff s o that conversation is moot. But let’s save some money and time on a project you honestly do not need, boxing the frame. You will need to remove the remains of the center brace,(think you opened it to blast) take the other three sides out. You will need to trim the lower lip of the x member some for whichever auto you use, not a lot but some trimming is in avoidable. Fellow on the Hamb ( 40 rag top-somthing), builds the center x member parts you need, those with replacements for the missing braces from center x to outside frame rails are all you need, and you are set to go. Yes by the time you finish boxing the frame your welding skills will improve, but do that on other projects. Again your car, your choice,I’m just old, have made more work out of things than necessary and want you to get it done and enjoy it.