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Projects A 40 Ford Sedan Deluxe Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Scott's 40, Jun 5, 2020.

  1. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Good1 One more option. Thanks!
     
  2. Here is a list of rearend measurements you were asking for.
    Sorry if it is not real clear. I need a new printer
    Hope this helps

    Rear end width copy 1.jpg
     
  3. Could be misinformed; but I was told that the Granada rear with the back cover was a "lighter duty" rear than the 8" it replaced.
     
  4. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    This table was just what I was looking for! Thanks!
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  5. mvee33
    Joined: Jul 3, 2010
    Posts: 75

    mvee33
    Member

    With the stock 9 inch diff. in a car, check the universal/driveshaft clearance to the floor tunnel, especially if you want to go low.
    The offset pinion can cause universal interference on bumps with the torque tube/driveshaft floor tunnel.
    I am changing over to the center pinion location 9 inch because of this issue in my 35. It has CE springs, 2 inch lowering blocks.
     
    RICH B likes this.
  6. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Thanks for the heads up. What does changing over to a center pinion location 9 inch involve? Is that a whole rear-end change? Which one will you be using?
     
  7. mvee33
    Joined: Jul 3, 2010
    Posts: 75

    mvee33
    Member

    In my case with a stock 57 inch wide 9 inch, I am selling my old diff housing and axles and and have ordered a custom center pinion 59 inch diff. housing with Dutchman axles, keeping the third member and eliminating my wheel lug adapters.
    It added up better value than cutting and welding the housing and changing the axles, and I get exactly what I want regarding width, pinion angle, wheel lug dimensions and brake choice.
    Modifying your floor to suit the driveshaft is an other option, I didnt want to go there.
     
  8. patman
    Joined: Apr 30, 2007
    Posts: 575

    patman
    Member

    You can take an Explorer 8.8 rear and shorten the long tube to fit the short side axle, and that works out to about 57”
     
  9. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Thanks, but that is probably well beyond my capabilities.
     
  10. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Do you recall the year of the 9" Bronco rearend? Was the pinion off-set?
     
  11. Something like '67-'76 year range. Don't remember if the pinion or the housing were offset; but looking at a picture of an A we used a Bronco rear in, it looks like housing was pretty much centered, so I would guess the pinion had some offset. Someone on here will know for sure.
     
  12. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,367

    31Apickup
    Member

    Early Bronco is 1966-1977, the pinion is offset about 1.5” but shouldn’t pose an issue.
     
    stillrunners likes this.
  13. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA


    Thanks!
     
  14. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    What happened to the pictures and posting I put up here recently?
     
  15. @Scott's 40 : were they the same as what was on the FB Friends Who Like FORDYs page?
     
  16. geoford41
    Joined: Jul 26, 2011
    Posts: 762

    geoford41
    Member
    from Delaware

    I have a Granada/Monarch 8" in my 40 coupe, with a 3:80 Trac loc, Alan at 8 & 9 rears in south Jersey said that it is good for up to 500 HP. My little 350/300 crate engine will not exceed that for sure, I do not have driveline issues with the floor either.
     
  17. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    No, different. It inadvertently showed something forbidden and was removed. Oh well.
     
    FortyNiner likes this.
  18. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Good to hear about the lack of driveline issues.
     
  19. neilswheels
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,213

    neilswheels
    Member
    from England

    Forbidden, now I want to know what it was..
     
  20. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 30,778

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    mustang 2 IFS
     
    Outback and neilswheels like this.
  21. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,143

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Yep, when in doubt it undoubtedly will be THAT! ^^^^^^^^^
    Years ago when that was the big buzz word in IFS conversions a friend of mine was building his shops' suspension product line he stated in his catalog....why would you use Fords most under engineered suspension components.
     
  22. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 1,374

    33Doll

    Thats Pretty much how I did mine!
    Messy!!!!
     
  23. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    I laid out all the body cushions where I thought they were supposed to be on the frame (the directions that came with the cushions is not too specific.) Turns out I had to move a bunch of them after I lowered the body. I took lots of pictures just to record their correct position (I'm sparing you from having to look at all of those), but I am still unsure of the location of the Type F cushion (more on that later.)
    I lifted the body and removed the jack-stands under neath. July 4  #2  body suspended.jpg

    I used some high-tech specialty alignment tools (screwdrivers) to make sure the body was properly located to the frame: July 4  #7  screwdrivers to locate cushions.jpg
    "Houston, we have touch-down...." but only after a couple of hours of monkeying around. I had to block up the body again so I could lengthen the chains that the come-alongs were hooked to. I had not considered that this new suspension is a few inches lower than the old.
    Underneath and looking forward, you can see the cushions sitting atop the crossmember frames. (Dang!! Look at the shine and smoothness of the sheet-metal on my 40's belly! This car is 83 years old!!!!)
    July 4  #11  underneath looking forward.jpg
    However, the body didn't set down on the cushions at the rear of the frame (note screw-driver shaft showing above the cushion.)
    July 4  #18  cushion at left rear cross-bar.jpg
    And here is the other side (again, note shaft of screwdriver showing above cushion.)
    July 4  #19  cushion at right rear cross-bar.jpg
    Clearance looks okay between axle center-section and body (maybe 2 and a half inches)
    Finally, I'm trying to figure out just where the Type F cushions go (identified by blue arrow). It doesn't have a tab (red arrows) like the other cushions that set in a hole to locate it. It only has shoulders that set down on either side of the frame rail that keep it in place. Apparently it's one of those "that looks about the right place" parts, so I set it midway between two Type B cushions (the guys with the tabs.) Anyone know where the Type F specifcally goes?
    July 4  #24  Type F cushion on crossmember.jpg
    So, next session I'll put the fenders on and see how it looks. I'm thinking "lower than it used to" (remember the bottom of my wooden wheels are on the dollies which adds about 2 and a half inches to the height)
    July 4  #28  me.jpg
    No? (I only look taller here because of the hair....[​IMG])
    back in 67  R.jpg
    More fun to come...
     
    LOST ANGEL, jaracer, brEad and 12 others like this.
  24. Great job......and thanks for posting your progress and/or issues !
     
  25. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Thanks! I am hoping to hear some observations on where the Type F cushions should be located (or how people decide where to locate them) and why the rear cross rail and body have that gap. Thinking about that, maybe that gap is partially filled by the gas tank mounting flange?
     
  26. The tank flanges are on the ends and sit on the frame rails.

    I would add a shim to fill that gap; at least till you find something off elsewhere to account for it.
     
    X38 likes this.
  27. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    I know that the old original cushions were pretty squished down but these new cushions are pretty stout and don't look lke they'll squish down much at all. On the curved part of the frame (the side rails that are curved to go over the axle) there is a cushion on the rear sloping face but the rest of the frame in that area has no cushions between it and the body so there is a contiuous gap between body and frame.

    Here is the cushion in position on the slope of the side rail. I suppose when that is tightened down the gap would be reduced at the rear frame cross-piece but I'd expect that there would still be some gap remaining. As you say, I'll probably still have to shim it.
    July 4  #20  cushion at frame rise.jpg
     
    brEad likes this.
  28. Not sure if this pic of my old 40 frame helps.....also looked at my 1938 truck frame - about the gas tank - didn't see anything..... upload_2023-7-7_14-19-10.png
     
    Outback likes this.
  29. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 264

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Thanks, but the gaps are on the cross-rail on the far side of the fuel tank in you picture.
     
  30. dln1949
    Joined: Nov 30, 2012
    Posts: 147

    dln1949
    Member

    Scott your doing a great job and should be very proud. I have two 40’s, a pick up and station wagon. One has dropped axle, split bones, front discs, 8 in rear, 350/400. The other has 350/350/9 in and forbidden front suspension. Both are lowered both ride like shit around town as I live in a state with well traveled roads, on the open highway they both ride great. I see you have started with the M two stuff s o that conversation is moot. But let’s save some money and time on a project you honestly do not need, boxing the frame. You will need to remove the remains of the center brace,(think you opened it to blast) take the other three sides out. You will need to trim the lower lip of the x member some for whichever auto you use, not a lot but some trimming is in avoidable. Fellow on the Hamb ( 40 rag top-somthing), builds the center x member parts you need, those with replacements for the missing braces from center x to outside frame rails are all you need, and you are set to go. Yes by the time you finish boxing the frame your welding skills will improve, but do that on other projects. Again your car, your choice,I’m just old, have made more work out of things than necessary and want you to get it done and enjoy it.
     

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