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Projects 61 Falcon - Father Son Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blown240, Oct 21, 2021.

  1. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Double check the check valve on the booster, just to be sure.
     
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  2. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Great idea! I was thinking I may need residual valves too.
     
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  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
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    It might. But I am not sure that's the problem.

    Have you also properly set the shoe drag, especially on the rear?
     
  4. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
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    from So-cal

    The front shoe drag is good. The rear was really hard to dial in, since it doesn't have an open diff.
     
  5. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    It was a big day today! We were able to finally bring the Falcon home. It fires right up, and drives pretty good, but its overheating. At least now its not 45 mins away.

    How Hot should this 200 run?

    It gets up to about 190-200 in a about 5-6 mins. I put a new radiator cap on, and Im sure the coolant is just tap water. Timing is at 12 degrees BTDC at idle with the vacuum lines off the dist.

    IMG_5530.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2022
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  6. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
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    My needle stays no more that one needle width past straight-up, if not just straight-up.

    Mine is a little different, though. I run the stock fan, and two pushers on the front, that come on when hot, or the AC is on.
     
  7. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    I may need to add an electric fan. I also think I can get the stock fan much closer to the radiator. It’s over an inch away now. I could add a shroud too if needed.

    First I’m going to make sure there is a thermostat.
     
  8. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
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    I had to resort to two smaller pushers in the front. There is very little room up there.

    I run a 3-core radiator, too. That is about a finger width ahead of the regular fan.
    PXL_20210904_202844964.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2022
  9. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    YA, I see what you mean by very little room.

    I went out and took some measurements. First off, there is a fairly new thermostat, not sure was the temp is, but it seems like it's 180.

    There is about 3/4 of an inch between the fan and the radiator. Also in front of the radar, there is only about 1-1/4 inches between the Radiator and core support. I also noticed that quite a few of the fins are bent a little on the radiator.

    I'm going to straighten out the fins, but will moving the fan 1/2" closer to the radiator help at all? I would really prefer to not have to run electric fans. I may have to find/make a shroud.

    IMG_5537.jpeg IMG_5538.jpeg IMG_5539.jpeg IMG_5540.jpeg IMG_5541.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2022
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  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
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    Can you shine a flashlight through the fins and see how many cores that radiator has?

    Unless my engine is a little farther forward than yours, it might not be a 3-core. If it is not, that's a worthwhile upgrade.
     
  11. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,442

    goldmountain

    How does it look inside the radiator when you look through the filler neck? If it plugged up, it won't cool.
     
  12. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Looks like its a 2 core...

    IMG_5543.jpg
     
  13. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    It looks ok when you look in the filler hole...
     
  14. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    We took the Falcon for a drive around the neighborhood. I got it out on a bigger road and got it up to about 40-45 mph, but it never shifted, so add that to the list...

    Plus its got more clucks and rattles thats any old car I've ever had! Thats ok though, thats what projects are supposed to be. At least now we can work on it at home.
     
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  15. brando1956
    Joined: Jun 25, 2017
    Posts: 201

    brando1956
    Member

    Has the cooling system been flushed? A lot of crud builds up in 60 years. Being from SoCal there's a good chance the coolant didn't get much attention and some people run straight water or just don't change the coolant. Without the corrosion inhibitors in antifreeze you're going to get a lot of rust. A thorough flush might do the job. If not, you might find a radiator shop that will clean and refurbish it but that may cost as much as a new replacement. You also mentioned an issue with the trans not shifting. Keep in mind that any extra trans heat is going to go into the cooling system.
     
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  16. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Thanks! The engine has been thoroughly flushed, but I can’t sat the same for the radiator, and your correct, it has straight water in it.
    There is/was an old school radiator shop nearby. I should see how much they would charge to clean it out. In the meantime, we’re working on a fan shroud…
     
  17. I doubt a fan shroud is going to fix the cooling problem. Most of the fins on that radiator look bent. I'd think that and its age are resulting in poor cooling/flow.

    I did a quick price check on a two-row standard radiator with no transmission cooler and it's almost $500! I'd try to find something at the junkyard that looks like it's in good condition and more or less fits the opening, if new brass radiators are that much. I had a Volvo radiator (and intercooler) in mine and it worked fine even though I don't think I ever had it set up correctly: I had a Moroso radiator cap deal that was in-line in the upper hose since the Volvo had the cap on a separate expansion(?) tank.
     
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  18. If you need to replace that radiator, check out early Mustang units. Since they are based on the Falcon, there might be one that could be adapted, and probably cheaper than a Falcon replacement.
     
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  19. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Thanks for the replies!

    Were going to try the shroud anyway, its a good learning experience for my son.

    Do you happen to remember what Volvo it was out of?

    I will check the early mustang ones too. Thanks!
     
  20. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
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    Where did you look?

    My 3-core direct-fit Copper and brass one was $180.99 when I bought it.

    It has a transmission cooler in it, too.

    Since then, it has fallen in price to $145.

    Spectra Radiator CU1463
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2022
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  21. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
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    I would just replace it with a 3-core. They retail for $145.
     
  22. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Thats actually the best idea yet, Where are they $145 at?
     
  23. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
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    My wife bought it on Amazon.
     
  24. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

  25. US Radiator.
     
  26. I think late 80s to early 90s Volvo 740. I still have the radiator. I'll dig for it, see how it fits in my 60 Ranchero, check the inlet and outlet location, and such.
     
  27. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    cool. Thanks!
     
  28. ~23" W, ~18" H, ~1-1/4" I/O, plastic tanks. Remember: No cap built into the radiator, so use a Moroso remote housing. Fits in the opening size-wise. I used the radiator/intercooler bottom support brackets from the Volvo with some simple spacers that bolted to the crossbraces to mount it. A new Falcon/Mustang radiator would be a lot easier to install; something like this should be quite a be cheaper but takes some figuring out.


    Volvo radiator.png

    Volvo radiator-1.png
     
  29. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Thanks for the info on the Radiator!!

    We started the fan shroud last night. Even if we end up not using it, it was good for my son to see how to make one.

    We used some 18 gauge sheetmetal I had paying around, along with some angle iron to use as a makeshift bench brake. Then I showed him how a flux core welder works (he has already learned to weld in shop class). We will finish it today or this weekend...

    0CAF570F-A6BA-4679-AE3C-D1E785FCE20F.jpg IMG_5592.jpeg IMG_5591.jpeg IMG_5585.jpeg
     
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  30. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Transmission:

    So this car wont shift out of first. I pulled a vacuum on the line running down too the trans and it holds, so the vacuum actuator should be ok. I did notice that something is odd with the linkage though. I can see a spring just hanging, which makes me think something may be missing...

    IMG_5593.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2022
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