Technical ***March 2022 Banger Meet Thread - Another Equinox***

i cropped all the pix ......... ............ all i got

 

I joined the Coupe Club on Sunday.

 

Welcome to the Dark Side...
It is really nice when the rain starts.

J

 

Anyone have any thoughts on running a Winfield carb on a car the gets driven a lot?

 

hubba hubba - you'll never look back.

Any plans for a burtz 5 main bearing motor for this?

 

My T speedster met califunny smog emissions requirements on a smog dyno in 2009 with an updraft SR-C... and haven’t touched it since. It’s been driven all over the west coast, the mountains of Montana, and even upstate New York since the dyno in ‘09. Sure it runs lean at the ocean, and rich in the mountains... but without an economizer valve, what would you expect?! I’ve fouled a few plugs along the way, but would never swap for some belly button carb!

Winfield’s are said to be touchy... I disagree. From my (arguably limited) experience on the dyno, I can say that a couple clicks of the jet screws can cause a major change in AFR. I’ve seen folks endlessly fiddle with their jet screws, and never be happy with the results. Elevation is temporary, set the carbs where you spend the majority of your miles, and deal with the changes when it happens. If you do adjust the jets, 1 or 2 clicks of the screws is all you need, then return the original adjustment when you get back to normal elevation. Take care not to get “lost” in the jet adjustments, count the clicks from closed for reference

 

I will agree with Kevin, I've started with a single BB on my Winfield head motor and now run two CC's on my my Riley motor. Ten years and no problems. I did switch from SR's to S models. I felt no need for the pump.

 

Last summer I was doing an oil change on the speedster (doesn’t happen very often as I run 12 quarts in a deep sump pan), and found the accelerator pump cover plate dangling from a single screw...!?! The diaphragm was still there but the spring was long gone. Didn’t notice any unusual leaking or performance change... so must not have been working for some time.

The S model carbs have “accelerator wells” that serve the same purpose as the SR accelerator pump. The limitation of the wells, is that they charge via the jet orifices, and so are relatively slow to react to rapid throttle position changes. I also will be switching from a single SR to dual S, and don’t feel I will miss the accelerator pump either

 

Thanks guys,

I have a bunch of Winfield stuff I am considering putting on the coupe. Head, cam, intake, and carbs. With this info, I will look harder into the change.

.

 

Not sure yet. It has a fresh B engine in it now. Future plans might include a T5 trans. If I go that way, then a Burtz will probably be part of it. Juice Brakes too!!!!!!!!

.

 

Can’t go wrong with Winfield! Tell us more...

 

Hey guys, since my gravity feed is traveling down to the electric fuel pump on the frame, should I still open/close the fuel shut-off valve inside the car or can I leave it open now?

 

Pull the line off the pump outlet and find out.

 

If you are using the original tank why do you need an electric pump?

 

From everything I have read, many have experienced problems such as the carburetor acting like it's starving from fuel once the fuel level in the tank drops below half full. The fellow I purchased the intake and carb from had it on his Model A and told me the same.

 

Friends,

I'm sure some of you have seen the Model B engine with the McDowell Cross Flow Head posted in the classifieds.

Can anyone share any more information on this head? I haven't been able to find anything on it and I'd like to learn more.

Thanks,

Raaf

 

After doing a little bit more research, I believe I plan on running a Wico Model X for my side drive magneto.
As far as adapting to the shaft assembly, I'm looking at options for couplers.
What I've found is a Vernier Coupling Assembly with 27/28 teeth.


Does anyone have any advice on if I should go this route, or continue searching? I know there were some cool brass ones made in the 1920s.

 

The MATCO model T cross drive plates used a short piece of 1” ID cloth reinforced rubber hose (radiator hose), with what was essentially a hose clamps to secure it to a couple of simple hubs at either end. Infinity adjustable, and worked good on my ol roadster...

Restoration Supply makes a really nice worm drive coupler that is infinitely adjustable too...

 

This is a copy o f a sales flyer, hope it helps. The Twin Cam McDowell is at the top of my Ford Speed Equipment wish list, are there any out there?

 

That is actually a Pratt and Whitney coulpling. I recall seeing them available from a supplier in England at one point several years ago. Making the mating halves is pretty easy, as the teeth on the rubber insert is a straight cross section, so the slots are simply a round bottom radial slot.

 

McMaster sells a bunch of different couplers that might work for you, and they are readily available...
One like this, perhaps?

 

Thanks @Jeff34
I think I found the right coupler! After tinkering with it a bit, I'm going to measure the shaft on the accessory drive that @winduptoy graciously sent me then I'll make an order for one of these!

I've still yet to find someone to machine my Wells front timing cover, and side drive.

 

@The37Kid - The one I was looking at was single cam. But appreciate what you've shared. The double overhead looks beautiful.

I was more trying to get a sense of what kind of horsepower you might see from the single overhead McDowell but it's all speculation anyway I suppose.

I think I suffer from fear of missing out anytime I see the speed stuff come up for sale. Of course it's all so expensive you've got to really commit to running it.

 

That's pretty trick! A little more out of pocket than what I was expecting to spend. Time for more research!

 

I have CAD models of the MATCO shaft, bushings, and coupling hubs somewhere... I’ll post if I can find...

 

The April 2002 Banger Meet Thread is open! No foolin!