Technical ENGINE STORAGE STAND

I'm in the lumber line too. I've even hauled a 6 figure Duesenberg engine like that. Totally safe but I'd be lying if I said my pucker wasn't making diamonds along the way. I also added some heavy casters to the mix and rolled it into my trailer but yeah, lumber.

 

Picture isn't the best, but I scabbed this together to haul a 351W home a few years back. I think the sides were 2 by 10. A length of all-thread on either end, tightened up to squeeze the oil pan. Up against the front of the bed, and 2 ratchet straps from the top front of the engine, to the hold-downs in the corners. I used the all-thread, because I didn't have the dimensions ahead of time, to build. Worked great all the way home.

 

This is what I use around the shop.

 

https://www.stumpysfabworks.com/

 

Blue Print Engines use wood as shown above to ship their engines in the crate. 1 metal strap in the front and 1 in the back from the engine to the wood. Cheap and secure. They must be happy with them.

 

I guess I was spoiled all my life. My Dad worked for a GMC Dealership as a Mechanic & he always brought home the factory crates that SBC & BBC's were shipped in, so had a bunch of them! I am sure there are 4 or 5 of them with engines sitting on them upstairs in the shop right now after all these years. I have several times taken one on the road with me to make transport of a customers engine much easier.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

I have one of those cheep stands, I wouldn't trust it even with straps holding to move a engine in the bead of a truck or a trailer.

 

HRP, I have some cut off pieces of 2x12 about 21/2 feet long you can have . But you gotta drive to Gaffney to pick them up.
RTP

 

Another vote for the Summit stand. I have half a dozen or so, and use them to store GM Holden I6 engines (and one spare Canadian 327 ). With some simple bolt-on angle iron, the Chev version of the stand will hold the Holden engine. Easy to shift around, and durable enough to roll over some minor obstacles without tipping. I lift the engine/stand up into my box trailer (wheels and all) using an endless chain and strap them down for transport.

Cheers,
Harv

 

It rather depends on what you are best at working with and what you have available at the time.

One out of wood like TA dad showed in post 33 could be fabbed up in 30 minutes or so and probably not cost anything if you scrounge a bit. The main boards that the pan rails sit on have to be just tall enough for the pan to clear the surface of what ever you set it all on. 4 eye bolts and you can strap the engine to the base and then strap the whole thing down in what ever you haul it in.

A trip out to the metal pile/rack/tub could probably produce enough pieces to fab up something like those Buick engines were sitting on on the previous page. A bit more time consuming for what might be a one use deal though.

 

I’ve used the old tire method dozens of times

 

The only way I will transport an engine is if it is fastened to a pallet or skid or crated for pick up - then loaded & unloaded by a forklift or other piece of equipment.

A Tim McMaster Custom Build that I hauled from California to Texas recently …




Jim

 

Engine stands are engineered - designed - intended to be a static point to work on or display an engine.

They are not suitable to hold an engine in place for transport - the center of gravity is too high.

I transported four EFV-8 Display Engines on
custom designed & built stands last year
from Oregon to Indiana.

Three were from the Edward Towe Collection that last sold many years ago.

That load was a pain in the @ss - never again
will I transport any engine on a stand.



Jim

 

This how my Rocket got here

 

Way back when I worked at the auto wreckers, I would cut down an old pallet, nail on scrap 2x4 wood to support the raised part of the oil pan and wire the engine down through whatever mounting holes I could find on the engine and twist the wire tight with a screwdriver like a turnbuckle. They always made it to their destination right side up.

 

ekimneirbo said:
"Have you priced any wood lately?) Those $10 stands ain't $10 anymore. Probably $40 to build one right now."
No argument. He's probably right.
Solution #1: Visit any construction site and (after asking permission, of course) drive away with scrap you need.
Quick solution #2: Salvage grocery carts. Cut off the unwanted potion. They have heavy duty wheels, front swivel.
Total cost for either solution - just your time.

 

Picking it up. HRP

 

I have the Summit type stands, sourced from swap meet tool vendors, for a SBF and flathead, but when it came time to move a 460, a couple 2x12 cuttoffs, a short 2x4, and a handful of construction screws made a stand that worked fine. Make sure you add some longer wings to add support to keep it from tipping.

That same wooden stand has been modified to fit a SBF and later a 351M.

It’s more stable than the Summit type steel tube stand.

 

I made some mounts that are stable and easy to store when not in use for the Nailhead and FE (gone now). You can make wheels for them also. Either bolt them to the motor mount pads or exhaust part of the heads, can hold with the trans bolted up and be stable in transport (did it in my panel a few times).

If you want to buy something already made (the pic is of a different Ford block):
https://motofeet.com/2200-1


Speedway has their copy version #91081102

 

Looks like herding kitty’s would be easier

 

Before I cut down my engine collection I just used wood tall enough to reach the pan rails.

I am down to just build Hemis now, so I bought a couple of dedicated carts.

 

One of these should be a go-to. I snagged a mega strap/ratchet from a semi rig to make it more secure than a HF item.

 

Hello,

The stand for the engine can be made from just about anything. We welded 2 inch angle iron into a rectangular design. The angle iron gave the sides strength for any size motor or heavy part. We also welded steel roller skates to the bottom for movement. We used rope and then when nylon straps came available, that held the motor down to move it in place for the pulley crane.

After completely building this bare SBC 292 c.i. bored block to the complete blower spec motor, it was loaded onto the roller skate storage stand. The stand was used for its trek to the bigger garage pulley crane set up for installation into the 1940 Willys Coupe.

The bad thing was it was only forward and back movement, as there were no rotating wheels available at the time. The good thing was the installation place was all smooth concrete and it was easy to slide the front of the cart/strapped motor sideways to get it lined up for the overhead pulley crane.

2x4 wood is durable and can be designed and used in the bed of a pickup or like when we had the El Camino. The time we used the El Camino bed, we moved a long block and as long as the motorcycle tie down brackets were available, the aircraft nylon straps held the motor in place around corners and over bumps.

There is no stand that will not need straps to tie it down securely. These days, you can use a large table saw rolling wheel cart as it is strong enough to withstand the weight, but has lockable wheels to keep it from rolling. But, straps are still necessary in any case. At least with rolling wheels strapped down, when you arrive at your destination, you can take the straps off and now have a rolling engine on a stand.


Jnaki

In January of 1961, our 671 motor was sitting on the old angle iron rolling cart, complete, ready to install anywhere. It was strapped down onto the cart. When the new buyer from the Midwest came to our house to get the motor ready for shipping, we used the exact rolling apparatus to move the motor inside of a shipping crate. It was secure and solid for transport back to the Midwest. The buyer was a happy future drag racer.

So, after 61 years of disappearance from So Cal, where in the Midwest is the 671 SBC 292 C.I. motor these days?

 

I'm a big fan of the 2-piece engine stands for SBF. & SBC.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdm-pce407-1002
good and cheap, but really does the job. You can add casters, or lift it up on a dolly.

 

The last time,about 3 years ago,I was given a old Ford Y-block engine { I never pass up getting a free V8 when offered }, it was fairly close by/about 30 miles. I ask if he had a Cherry Picker?YES. So I preped my station wagon by loading up some rope,a few 4x4 wood blocks and my sheet of 1/2in. plywood cut to fit the lower rear floors< this saves the floor. My wagon is a 05 Magnum extra handy design/as the rear floor is 3 floors over each other,and removing any make rear deeper as needed. So took out top floors making + about 6in. deeper.
I showed up to get the free "Y",an first thing I was told " You can't get this engine in that car!!"
He had not told me,it still had the auto tranny on it also,an he wanted it all gone !
So had to check size with tape an check! Lay the rear seat down so enough room for tranny tailshaft running forward.
I loaded the hole thing in,tied it down { Spiderman would of been proud} with the blocks inplace. Then I closed the hatch,He said Holy Crap!!! He was amazed totally.
As I walked back an looked,at my wagon=It was now Max out lowrider LOL,
Drove lower* then I norm do speedwise an look out for bumps for the 30 mile trip home. An unload my rusty old treasure,no matter how bad,they have good parts some were inside !!