I built a 200+hp 200 6 for my 64 falcon that has clutch issues. I put a t10 behind the 200, but the engine appears to be too much for the stock clutch. I've put 2 new "stock" 8.5" clutches in, but they both would slip whenever I opened up the 2 outer carbs of my tri power. Does anyone know of a good performance clutch that can stand up to the higher torque that I'm putting out?
Is there a bigger diameter clutch assy. that will fit inside your bellhousing and still bolt to your flywheel? A pick-up truck application, maybe. I'm not too saavy with Ford parts interchange, so I'm curious too.
How’s the throw out bearing adjustment? Are you sure it’s releasing all the way? And I’m with 426sleeper. If you can get a 10” clutch in there,there are a lot more options available. And you wouldn’t need much more than stock. The smaller 8 “ stuff I’ve been involved with is usually twin disc stuff and doesn’t really tolerate the constant slipping of street driving. I’m also very interested to hear what others say.
lots of HD clutch kits for early Falcons down here but Id say join a .au group or page for recommendations. Must still be makers of this sort of thing over there?
I also thought it might be an engagement issue, but it would have to be an issue prior to the clutch itself. I say that because the present clutch is the third one to have this issue. If the problem stemmed from something prior to the clutch itself, I don't know how. It uses a Z bar system that's pretty much idiot proof. Also I forgot to mention that I had this engine originally hooked up to the stock 3 speed that came in the car, and it slipped also. As far as using a larger disc: I know the later 200 - 250s used a 9 inch clutch, but I don't know if it will fit in my early (65) bellhousing.
Three things you can look into, which may be somewhat related: 1. Larger diam clutch disc and corresponding pressure plate and flywheel to match (best solution) 2. Higher pressure plate clamping force (check linkage for flex with higher forces) 3. Different style pressure plate that adds additional clamping force due to centrifugal force.
A larger diameter clutch would be ideal, but I'm pretty sure I'm limited to the 8.5 inch set up. So I think my my next option is to find a pressure plate with tighter springs. I just saw that summit offers a set up that's "oem compatible but with more tension". The set is made by "zoom performance". Has anyone had any experience with them?
I have the solution. Get a SPEC Stage 2 clutch for a Mercedes 190E. Use the pressure plate and throw-out bearing. My 200hp+ 200-6 has one, although I am also using the disc for the 190E. It happens to have the same splines as my T56.
The step height on the current flywheel is 1", it needs to be reduced to 0.870". There are "extra" holes in the flywheel, one on each side of the stock pressure plate bolt holes. Those need to be tapped to 5/16"-24, for high-quality fasteners. The holes are already the correct size to accept the tap. Here is what it looks like with a T5 setup. Pry the current throw-out bearing off of the slider. Pry the Mercedes throw-out bearing off of its slider. Place the Mercedes bearing on the Ford slider. The little "spring fingers" on the Mercedes bearing will latch under the lip on the Ford slider. Show assembled here. You may want to talk to a SPEC tech. They have clutches for this setup in stage 1, 2, 2+, 3, 3+, 4, and 5. They may be able to get you set up with a disc that matches your input shaft, and this pressure plate design. My current setup.
That used the 9-inch clutch. 1966-1968 blocks had both the 8-1/2" bell and 9" bell pattern on the back of the block. Earlier blocks just had the smaller one, so it is not even possible to put the larger stuff on.
It won't. Using a better 8-1/2" clutch allows you to keep everything you already have. Unless you were very lucky, or someone changed it, and you have a dual-pattern block, you cannot use the 9" clutch. Even if you could, the performance upgrade is not particularly good. Pedal effort on the 8-1/2" diaphragm clutch is actually easier that an original style clutch, so no extra strain on the pedal, linkages, z-bar, or fork.
The fact that the Mercedes fits at all is surprising. But that does look like it would solve my issue. I'll contact Spec and see what they have to say. Thanks pard
There are not. I had to go "off the ranch" to adapt parts from another make. That make-fit also opened the pathway up to street to full-race stuff, to better match power levels.
The picture with the silver pressure plate was the setup that I ran with a 144 and a T5. Same everything, but that needed a Pontiac Sunbird or Diesel Jeep 4-culinder clutch disc to match the splines. If you remember what the splines are on your T10, I can look around and see what also has those. The Mercedes clutch is 215mm. That is 8.465", or 0.035" under. The bolt patter is an exact match. You might have to enlarge the pressure plate bolt holes a tiny bit, as they are Metric. Do this with a tapered reamer, alternating sides, and remove no more than is necessary No idea what the extra holes in the flywheel are for, or why they match the desired pattern. I have no ability to explain why all of this happens to be the case. Even less so, in my case, why the 190E input shaft, and the T56 input shaft have the same spines! None of this makes sense, but it works!
One caveat: It seems that every manufacturer has their own idea as to how to make the sprung hub in the disc. In some cases, the springs stick out of the engine side a little. Check that. It might be necessary to machine a little out of the flywheel face to clear them as the disc wears out. It is a simple thing to take care of ahead of time. That is shown in my naked flywheel picture.
Oh and 1989-1993 190E. Here is the LUK equivalent for a stock one: They even call it out as 8-1/2", not 215mm!
You saved the man a ton of work, sure is obvious you know how to do this. Reminds me of the late Rich Fox that could look at things and put a “x” head on a “y” engine, you may be dealing with newer parts, but hotrodding at its finest
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