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Projects Engine Swap Advice

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by sballmann45, Mar 8, 2022.

  1. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 3,039

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    A VERY many cars have been started, to be turned into hot rods, race cars, restorations etc., with the best of intentions in mind.

    Most have been sold, partially complete ! Just take a look at all of the "for sale" sections in the various forums, Auto Trader, Bring a Trailer (!), etc.

    Best of luck !

    Mike
     
    Squablow and G-son like this.
  2. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,293

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    Have you thought about why you want "V8 power"? Just asking because while being young it's very easy to wander off in search of something we want, but most times we haven't thought through why we want it and once we get it we often figure out it isn't what we hoped for, so we move on to searching for the next unicorn that we think will make us happy.

    If it's only about power you can get plenty of it from 4 or 6 cylinders, way more than you or the car can handle. Going for more power is the first step for a lot of people, many of them discover that having a lot of power that can't really be properly used is a disappointment. Then they either give up, or move on to improving the handling to match, and brakes, and...

    Just think it through first, and make a proper plan. As others suggest, drive it for a while and figure out what it's missing for you to like driving it.
     
    jimmy six likes this.
  3. upload_2022-3-9_9-7-12.jpeg

    maybe smethin like this...?
     
    i.rant, alanp561 and continentaljohn like this.
  4. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,379

    31Apickup
    Member

    First I’d just upgrade to hydraulic brakes and a dropped axle. Then drive it some, also checkout hitchhikers 31 pickup. Then get an idea of what you may want to do with it. My truck was just a bunch of pieces when I got it. I used a Buick v6 which fits without cutting the firewall but isn’t really on topic for this board ( plus it’s a late 70’s early 80’s build), but it’s good power for an A. I’ve found that they drive best at 45-55 mph since they’re as aerodynamic as a brick, I like cruising country roads the best with mine although I have done road trips running 70-75 mph, a lot of wind noise. The pickups are pretty small inside.
     
    ClarkH likes this.
  5. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 6,149

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    First off, you have to decide what it is that you're trying to do with the car. If you're only looking to do local driving and simply want something more capable than a bone stock Model A, warming up the 4 banger with a better carb and intake, a higher compression head, a T5 and open drive conversion, and juice brake would make that car actually quite capable in local-ish driving. 50 MPH, 2 lane roads would be no problem at all with that set up. You won't have V8 power, but you'll have plenty of ability to drive the car in modern traffic safely and reliably and have a blast doing it.

    That being said, if you're looking for a car that you can blast down the highway with at speeds of 70+, taking trips of hundreds of miles, then even that set up probably isn't your ticket. You're going to need more horsepower, and a chassis that is better suited to that kind of driving.

    That's where I agree with Squablow and others who recommend the chassis swap. There's nothing wrong with buying what it is you need and taking the so called "easy" road by buying a complete chassis already set up for what it is you want to do. Places like Boling Bros. (and others) offer complete, rolling chassis with upgraded brakes, engine mounts already where they need to be, etc., and all you'll have to do is add your choice of engine, transmission, and drop the cab on. The prices for these complete chassis are more reasonable than you may think, and you'll still have plenty of sweat equity in the project making it what you want to call it your own.
     
    Squablow likes this.
  6. DO NOT WASTE your money getting it running and driving. If you want a hotrod, make it a hotrod. You want a SBC, install an SBC. Don't 'restore' something you're going to change. Search this site for technical advice, and ignore the opinions. Take your time, do the research and ask technical questions. Don't do your build following the opinions of others. It's gonna be your money and your time. Make it what YOU want.
     
    swade41 and ottoman like this.
  7. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,594

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    I got my 37 Chevy p/u when I was 16 and took it completely apart and it stayed that way for over 20 years,if it would have been complete like yours I would have gotten it drivable and enjoyed it some. Get it drivable and start looking for the parts you want to use and save up a bunch of money and then do what you would like to do.
     
    Budget36 and AccurateMike like this.
  8. AccurateMike
    Joined: Sep 14, 2020
    Posts: 641

    AccurateMike
    Member

    Maybe get the Grandpa's pickup drivable. Take it to local shows. Put kids and/or buddies in the back and do some parades. Take 1/2 the money and none of the time you were going to spend, and go buy a hotrod. You will probably appreciate having Grandpa's truck, the way he had it, when you are old. Happens way faster than you think. I don't have much of either of my grandfathers' stuff. If I was looking for a project, I would probably pass on it. It would be a shame to work it over. It looks like it's all there. They are only original once.
    The guy you buy your hotrod from will probably be taking a beating. You never get back your time and money. Take advantage of that. It's not like you won't be working on cars. Between them, you may have a full enough dance card. Fixing on the old one and personalizing/improving/fixing fuck-ups on the rod is going to happen. Instead of diving in, hone your fab skills and build your tool stash on cool mods.
    Like homebuilt aircraft, wooden boats and kit cars, most don't get finished. You would probably regret starting if you run out of momentum. You would get instant gratification (has it's good sides). You could test out both scenes (antique and hotrod), and see if you are really into it. You can always sell the hotrod for seed money to rod the pick-up. No matter what you do, make sure you have fun ! Mike

    And, what @junkyardjeff said while I was typing.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2022
  9. Those original engines were ugly and you should definitely put something newer in. Photo from a show, not my engine. FYI my AVATAR has a 181 cubic inch GM Industrial engine.

    Charlie Stephens IMG_3382.JPG
     
    Desoto291Hemi and Budget36 like this.
  10. gconnsr
    Joined: Sep 14, 2008
    Posts: 144

    gconnsr
    Member
    from AZ

    It definitely looks like a nice start and original wouldn't even be a thought. I'm not sure you actually need to box the frame if you don't get to crazy but these other guys would know better.
     
  11. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 1,985

    X-cpe

    You want to change the engine and a lot of people are suggesting a new frame. My understanding of Model A's is that those are the only places the serial number is located. Check with how the state handles that, if you go that way. Otherwise you will have a truck with a title and no numbers.
     
  12. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 4,647

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You say you don't see yourself "driving around in a stock 30's truck"? You might be surprised at the outside interest you would generate; A young guy of 24 in a 92-year-old truck? Are you thinking that it wouldn't look cool? There's nothing uncool about the idea. Whether you simply choose to add some safety mods like juice brakes or change over to a later driveline, you will be right there with the cool guys, unless you decide to ratrod it. Did your grandfather use and work on the truck much? As '29phonebooth suggested, ask your grandfather for his advice? He may say to do whatever you want with it but try to get him involved. He'll have valuable knowledge that you need to learn and you will be able to spend invaluable time with him. There have been many good suggestions on here and the only one I can truly say I disagree with is @sloppy jalopies comment about learning to weld on the new frame. Get your welding skills right before you start welding stuff up that could get you hurt. Don't throw anything away. Ziploc bags with part names are your friends. And, please update your profile with your general location. Someone(s) on this board live close to you and be willing to help.
     
    '28phonebooth likes this.
  13. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    so you think he should learn to weld laying under the truck welding suspension parts ?
    i'll bet he would make better safer welds in the open, plenty of room, on the new to him naked frame...
    that is why i suggested welding on the new one...
     
    427 sleeper likes this.
  14. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,424

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have that book and agree you should read it before you tear into that little truck. Make sure the V8 conversion is something you can commit to at this stage of your life. Below is from page 17; if anything, the time estimate is conservative, and assumes an existing base of knowledge.
    IMG_3478.jpg
    BTW, 4-banger hotrods are a lot of fun, and you'd be on the road in a matter of months, not years.
     
  15. chucka
    Joined: Oct 29, 2018
    Posts: 87

    chucka

    Lots of good advise here but I feel compelled to weigh in. Absolute first thing to do is GET IT TITLED!! Grampy can help with this if necessary. Maybe registered, too, if it's driveable. Then sit in it, as others have suggested - - - Model A trucks aren't very big and we don't know how tall you are. If you're close to, or over 6 ft, you won't like a recessed firewall, which you'll need, even with a SBC. Whatever you do, do it slowly, with thought and planning, and have a good time!
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  16. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,269

    Budget36
    Member

    He said in the first post he got it running. Hope he comes back and weighs in after reading all the replies.
     
  17. If you're going to do new running gear do it in 10 days like this.
    1. buy a good running doner car with the engine, rans and rearend you want to run. Now you have most everything you need.
    2. get or fix your A radiator to match your engine
    3. pull both engines, trans and rearends from both cars
    4.fab rear spring mounts on the new rearend and mount your A spring (remove 4 or 5 leafs)
    5. split front and rear wishbones and fab frame mounts and rod ends for them
    6. cut the middle of the rear crossmember out
    7. cut the center of the firewall out to clear your new engine and trans
    8. drop the engine and trans in the car and make cardboard motor mount patterns for front and rear mounts and make steel mounts. Weld them in so the top of the carburator is level with in 3 to 6 degrees of flat
    9. bolt the engine and trans in and connect a speedway motors wire harness
    10. install 40 to 48 Ford brakes master, backing plates and lines
    Allow 1 day for each of the 10 steps and you will have a running Model A, drive it around for a week and have fun, then fix the firewall and floor.
    If you hit it every other day for a month you'll be done, it's not a hard or slow process, in the 50 kids got it done in a couple or three days.. Be a 50's guy and you'll be driving around in a month.
     
    427 sleeper and Nailhead A-V8 like this.
  18. old chevy
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 60

    old chevy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well said and very true
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  19. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 4,647

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No, and I think you've deliberately mis-read what I said. I don't know what his welding skills are but, if he's not capable of proper welding techniques, he needs to get them right before he ever starts welding on his car. We all have to start somewhere and he's come here asking for advice.
     
  20. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    will not hi-jack this thread.
     
  21. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,517

    alchemy
    Member

    If you are not a fabricator, I'd highly recommend getting the Pete & Jakes catalog. They make excellent parts for many early Fords, and their catalogs have lots of good tech tips and explanations on geometry of early hot rod suspensions and steering. They have made the same high quality stuff for decades, because it works.

    Then, you might even find it wise to buy a lot of those P&J parts to do your conversion. Their engine and trans mounts, rear ladder bars and spring hangers, brake pedal and master mount, steering stuff. You could even use a lot of their front end stuff if you want the truck lower and to ride nice.
     
  22. arkiehotrods
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 6,802

    arkiehotrods
    Member

    My '29 with '30 cab, 283 Chevy, 700R4. Sold it to buy the '40 in my avatar. If I had it to do over again, I would have kept it and saved a little longer to buy the '40. It was a very fun little truck.
    IMG_20150926_224617.jpg IMG_20150926_224847.jpg
     
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  23. twenty8
    Joined: Apr 8, 2021
    Posts: 2,349

    twenty8
    Member

    I wouldn't waste my time if I were you. Best to wake up to yourself and get the hell out of the situation before it starts costing you time and money. I will do you a huge favour and take it off your hands. Contact me as soon as you can and I will ease your burden. Contact no one else, only me..............:D:D:D
     
    2935ford and arkiehotrods like this.
  24. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 1,346

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    2 points:
    1) K.I.S. keep it simple!
    2) Do Not tear down the truck until you are 100% ready to build it! Ripping a vehicle down to nuts and bolts is very satisfying and the lure of it has ruined millions of projects...its pretty much a guarantee of turning it into a 25, 30, 35 year long project or it going out the door still in pieces 10 yrs from now...Don't Do It!
    A simple plan:
    Look for a running '46-'53 F-1,2,3,4 Truck preferably '46-8 and F1 pull the engine, trans, front spindles/brakes and rear backing plates/brakes, pull the pedal/master cylinder mount, steering box/column, shock mounts, keep the wheels...sell the rest of truck
    - Sell your A eng. /trans, front & rear brakes, steering box... keep the front and rear axles/spindles & convert to juice brakes
    - Ditch the truck trans (unless '46-8 they can be converted to closed drive) *sell the open drive bits
    - If '49-'53 find a '37-'39 toploader trans or '46-8 truck box
    ** if F-2,3 keep only eng./pedals/box/front brakes.... find '39-'48 rear bp's/hubs/brakes
    - get your Tardel book and comb the articles and threads on here...get Cling's wishbone mount adaptor if you can locate these very common parts it is 100% bolt together! no boxing no welding....and best of all...no small block Chev!! combine the two vehicles get it running & driving THEN modify it to suit
     
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  25. Why should he come back? He came here asking advice on hotrodding his truck and was told to restore it. He said he didn't want to drive a stock 30's truck and was told to drive it stock and to like it. He asked about boxing the frame and was told to buy a new one. He asked about a SBC and was told to keep the banger. He's said Gramps doesn't care what he does to it, and he's told to restore it because it's Grampa's truck. He's new, so he didn't realize he was asking hotrodding questions on site dedicated to restorations. This kid should be running away from here as fast as he can.
     
    joel likes this.
  26. twenty8
    Joined: Apr 8, 2021
    Posts: 2,349

    twenty8
    Member

    That's horse shit. I just went back and re-read the entire thread, and every poster has been helpful and has encouraged the idea of hot rodding the truck. The guy asked for opinions and he got them, many of them recommending the wisdom of formulating a plan for the build before jumping in half-cocked. This is solid advice, especially for a guy who admits his skills are limited. I think the replies have been on target.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2022
  27. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,487

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    OP, a great start would be watching Matt's videos on Iron Trap Garage. PLENTY of inspiration on there from various angles. Also spend some time in this thread

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/building-my-first-roadster-in-san-francisco.1204990/

    Keeping this as simple as possible is the key but if you are thinking a flathead V8 is the answer you may soon be underwhelmed by the power and overwhelmed by the rebuild cost :)

    Before spending money no matter what you do I'd suggest getting it titled in your name and deciding on what you want to do and start collecting parts, that way you ony spend your money once, well hopefully :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2022
    alanp561 likes this.
  28. Welcome to the forum, there's lots of opinionated people here and at many times you'd think you mistakingly joined a restorers group instead of a hot rod group.
    Build what YOU want, not what others think you SHOULD have, building hot rods is a learning experience don't be afraid to jump in after a little research, you'll have lots of fun with a little misery along the way. If you drag it out to long trying to make everything perfect like a show car then you'll run out of enthusiasm to complete it,, especially on your first build. There's several threads here about firewall modifications to fit sbc engines in, aftermarket even sells firewalls you can replace yours with, get a plan together and enjoy the hobby of hot rodding.
     
  29. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,281

    ekimneirbo

    There are lots of valid reasons NOT to build the chassis you have, and I agree with what all of the guys told you on that............BUT;)

    The truck will need a complete disassembly and then you start rebuilding an area or a component at a time. Meanwhile time passes, and interest often wanes, and tastes change as well. As mentioned above, many projects never get completed because of the time factor and lifes other demands on your time.

    Since its gonna be your first rodeo.....so to speak, I would say get it running AND DRIVING. First thing to work on is putting twelve volts in it. Then drive it to some shows and talk to others with similar vehicles and take lots of pictures. Drive it some more.

    Then look at changing the rearend and getting hydraulic brakes on it. Drive it some more.

    Swap the transmission out for a 5 speed that will make it fun to drive and is compatible with whatever V8 you plan to install later. Drive it some more

    As you progress, if you actually only disable the truck for short periods of time and do upgrades, you will sharpen your welding and fab skills and still get enjoyment from what you are doing. As you progress, you will accumulate many of the needed parts for a full on rebuild. At that point in the future you can decide whether you like it as a driver or want something showier. The point is: Since its your first project I think you will be better off upgrading in stages and learning as you go............but keep the truck driveable and enjoy it as well.

    Some time in the future you will probably want to do another full blown project where you start by disassembling everything before proceeding, but its always good to have a driver while you are doing it, and then you will have experience on your side as well.:)

    I would NOT start the project with an engine swap as it will require too many other changes to make it work. Get a lot of the complimentary changes in place and change the engine later on.
     
    X-cpe and G-son like this.
  30. As others have said the first thing is to get it titled. There are things that might require his signature and should be handled while he is still available. There may be questions that only he has the answer to. Some fees and taxes depend on the value of the vehicle so get it resolved BEFORE you put money into it. After the paperwork is clean you can put it on a "non operational" status with the DMV to avoid annual fees (in case it turns into a long term project). Don't let the DMV charge you extra because it is a "commercial vehicle", there is an exemption for the early vehicles (many local DMV's don't know this, call Sacramento). For your info I have an almost stock '31 RDPU.

    You might want to put your general location into your profile. Some of my comments may be unique to California, such as if you are in Montana don't call Sacramento with questions.

    Keep posting, I would be interested in seeing how it goes.

    Charlie Stephens
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2022

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