Technical Fuse Box ACC Question

Hey guys, question. Does anyone recognize this particular fuse box? Appears to me there is no 12v ignition only circuits on my fuse box. I need a 12v acc ignition circuit for a sending unit on a fan relay. If not, I need advice on how to remedy this without replacing the box or adding more wires to the ignition. Thanks.

 

Might start with a test light, and see what is "hot" when the key is off, and when it's on.

The use of a wire nut would scare me into wanting to replace all the wiring on the car....or at least checking every single bit of it.

 

The fan should be powered by a relay. The ignition switch could be used to turn on the relay.
The fan will be running whenever the switch is on, which isn't necessary and will measurably reduce the life of most fans

 

Sorry this is a Painless Fan Relay install all of the other wiring has been sorted out. I just need a 12v ignition source for the a/c sensor

 

Yeah I saw the wire nut, I will be addressing that for sure. I tested the circuits, they all seem to be hot with the battery. Is it has simple as adding a small fuse block and run a hot wire from the ignition to run my accessories?

 

That's probably the easiest thing to do.

 

Do I need a relay for the additional fuse block and do I get the power from the ignition or is it from the battery thru the relay with the other power wire coming off ignition?

 

Standard Ignition FH22 but can't find a break down of how it's divided if it even is. I'm assuming just by looking at it that it only allows one "source".
(edit- didn't read close enough, you've obviously figured this out already)

 

Would the Painless 70113 or 70114 be the best solutions?

 

Reading the product descriptions, I think 70114 is closer to doing what you want, but that is only an opinion.

You might call Painless stop see what they think.

 

A fuse tap would easily solve the problem.
https://www.autozone.com/electrical...bussmann-atm-add-a-circuit-fuse-tap/32416_0_0

 

I have additional circuits (all hot) , I need an ignition source circuit.

 

One of your fuses shown would power your ignition switch. The ignition source you require, would come from the ignition switch. ( switched power when the key is on) Will also have Start, Start/Run, Run/Acc source from the ignition switch. You could possibly pick the Start/Run off the ignition coil, HEI or alternator. Are you sure there is not another fuse block?

 

This is the only fuse block. I’m sure the AC, Bluetooth Amp, Air Bags are already coming off the ignition switch. Even though the wire needed for the AC sensor shouldn’t have a significant draw, I got to draw the line somewhere. How much is too much? So that’s why I think I should add a auxiliary fuse box. Plus my battery is in the truck and wiring needs cleaned up eventually too. I do have an HEI ignition

 

Thanks for identifying the fuse block, appreciate it.

 

All the accessories wired off the ignition switch should be moved to the new fuse block. Then the ignition switch only has to power the coil and the 70 amp relay that turns on the new fuse block.
Powering accessories off the ignition switch is a big invitation for that switch to fail in the future.

 

I misread that ALL circuits were hot. Another possibility would be to run a switched wire to the fan relay

 

It looks like it has 1 feed post for the whole panel and the other post on top is for a ground junction block. The ones with a ground post usually are for fiberglass products like boats.

What I would do is take off the panel flip it over, make sure the bottom tang is also powered by the rest of the panel and cut the buss bar for the last 2 fuses (so they're separate from the rest of the panel). Drill a hole in the lower tang for a nut/bolt and run your ignition feed wire to that bolt. You'll now have 2 fused terminals that are switched.


Here's the one I'm going to use on my '28. It's a Blue Sea 5015 For a boat, I'm going to separate some of the fuse power between switched and constant.

 

That's a nice solution but doesn't take the accessory load off the ignition switch.

 

He said it was to control a fan relay, very small load on the control side of a relay.
"need a 12v acc ignition circuit for a sending unit on a fan relay." But you could add a relay using power in from the hot stud of the fuse panel and the ign switch as the control if there's going to be a real acc load.

 

@ZZ Top Chop , have you decided how you want to proceed?

 

I think I’m going to use the Painless 70014 fuse block, it has three ignition circuits. I don’t need it just yet as the wire that snowballed this is for the AC anyway. Current focus is getting the electric fan running so I can break in the new motor.

 

As far as that Standard ign fuse block, it has all the looks of a boat fuse block where the ground leads all go back to a bus bar. The power feeds the fuse block through the stud.
Actually this is the same item Sierra Marine 14-Gang Fuse Block Bar for ATO & ATF Fuses - FS40440 | eBay

 

A Volvo 2 speed Fan Relay utilizes a constant 12volt/30 Amp protected HOT. It is triggered by negative input -say a temp sending unit or switch to ground. It does not need to be powered thru the switch. Correct me if I’m pulling this out of...well...”Where the Sun don’t Shine”.

 

Would you happen to know what the bottom terminal is used for?

 

Just to give you guys a visual of where I'm at. I'm going to tape this wire up until I can get to adding a circuit. Would be just as easy to update the whole panel than add a circuit?

 

Not to get you side tracked but you should have a main feed off of the battery or alternator to inside the car which can then branch out to your fuse block, ignition switch and such. You need to see if there is any type of wiring protection on this feed like a fuse, fusible link, or circuit breaker at the battery or alternator where this feed originates from.

Jim

 

Bottom terminal?
The block is a 14 circuit fuse block with 7 circuits running off each side. The bar on the end is the ground connection for boats. All boat DC wiring goes back to a common ground.

 

Was curious, thanks

 

I think he's talking about the other end (red arrow), I bet it's connected to the stud for power on the other end of the box. Looks like whatever you put on the power stud feeds the inside terminal of the fuses on either side. Use a test light to check it.