Technical ***February 2022 Banger Meet Thread - Heart Has 4 Chambers***

Hey there. Checking in after a long absence from the HAMB, Nice roadster pick-up weather on the South East coast of Australia. Good to be out and about in the little jigger.

 

What a beautiful thing, Kevin.

 

You basically have a stock model A with a slightly higher compression head. If you can drive a spur gear model A transmission then spending the money installing a V8 trans is a waste.. even with the holley 94 and ansen intake mounted shifting faster wont make up for the fact you basically have a stock engine. Many do an expensive transmission upgrade hoping a quicker shift will make a difference, in most cases it doesnt,unless you are on the race track. Never hop up an engine you haven't opened and completely inspected. Hopping up worn engines leads to heartbreak. And find out what you are working on, saying you have a 'circa 1930 car' makes you look ignorant. In short, successfully building a reliable hopped up model a requires skill and mechanical knowledge, although the car is referred to as simple,its not,its complex in its own way.

 

"Circa 1930" refers to the engine only. Its a late '29/early '30 engine that was rebuilt and installed in my early 1931 Tudor. I know what I'm working on, just used the "circa 1930" so I wouldn't have to explain the above...

Thanks for the additional input. Just trying to think things through before I dive in.

 

Railcar has a point, with the age of these motors and the amount of "shade tree" mechanics you never know what you have until opened it up. Even at that, the components may not be of the best quality. For instance, my "B" builds I go back to a "C" Ford crank, I have just found them to be more reliable than some of the aftermarket ones.

And just to clarify, I am not in the picture... J

 

Im not the guy in my avatar either..but any cat who's rockin a smoke while in custody stands tall with me...especially if he's 12 or so..

I apologize if I insulted you brett4christ, I don't consider ignorance an insult...stupidity is,not ignorance..and yes you can easily convict me of both.

 

All good...moving on! And a sincere thanks for the advice.

 

Been chasing a little vibration in the upper rpm, ran a compression check and looks like 65/80/85/65, Oiled only bumped up a few lbs, so thinking I need to look at the valvetrain first before tearing the head off. If the adjustment is good on the lifter then its on to lapping valves probably.

 

1930 model a engine I was going to get overhauled - took things apart just to see what I have before bringing it to machinist and found the block casting damaged around all of the exhaust guides this one being the worst - Im sure its been like this for a long time with all the carbon build up it couldnt be seen until the guides were removed
has anyone ever seen this? should I look for another block?

 

Building some intakes and headers in the spare time

 

If I'm looking at what I think I am seeing...appears to had water setting in/on it.....it may not be fatal
Wire brush it real good...the whole deck and check for cracks or have your machine shop clean and magniflux as a first step. Wire brushing and putting your eyeball on it first could save the cost of a vat clean and magniflux.
Good luck neighbor

 

Riley Two Port
I am looking at a pile of parts, blocks, misc. and a two port Riley while I am out here this time. I know nothing about Riley's except that some repops were made. I really don't need it but it will be part of the deal. Are these worthwhile and dependable or should I trade it off, any input would be appreciated either on here or send me a PM.
Thank You
Steve

 

bringing engine to a shop in LasCruces they've done model a engines so he'll give me the "yea or nay" i have a bonded title with this serial # so hopfully its all good

 

Hard to tell from the pic, but looks like a good candidate for pressing in straight valve guides and grinding out the guide hump...

 

I would also be interested

 

Been distracted lately with a destroyed rear end in the T touring and a cooling system overhaul in the Avanti... not to mention I really want to get the Akron-Hed and new Winfields on my T racer. The last pieces of the carb to build is the throttle stop, idle screw tension spring, and float ball. Original pieces were used to test fire #1

in an attempt to keep the Winfield project updates in one place... take a look at my build thread

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/building-a-new-winfield.1210325/page-7

 

Hi Burl, is that a Wico mag? I wanted to run one on my B engine but was advised not to because the difficulty of tuning. Any help would be a great help on dicsion on trying to use it. Thanks.

 

The March 2022 Banger Meet Thread is open!