Technical Iron w/p pulley removal?

I have what appears to be a cast iron water pump pulley on a 1967-ish 283.

I am assuming it is pressed off and pressed on the new pump whenever changing the pump.
Can anyone shed light on this? I have worked on a lot of SBCs but I don't know what kind of evil fuckery holds this pulley on.

 

A loooong time ago I worked on a heavy duty farm type truck with a pump like this. As I remember it had a large air compressor mounted on the engine and needed multiple belts to run it. I assumed the pulley was pressed on as it came with the water pump that I installed. This was at least 40 years ago and it took a couple days to get the pump then. Heavy bastard too!

 

Carefully scrape the paint off of the exposed portion of the shaft. Remove the remaining studs.

Use a bearing puller, and you might only be able to get a two-jaw puller on there, due to the design.

More jaws are better. If you can get a three-jaw puller somehow fit in there, all the better.

 

uh....what does the force screw press against? The fan pilot, which is part of the pulley?

 

Okay, here is what i have done so far...
Soaked in liquid wrench for 48 hours.

I tried two sizes of three jaw pullers, medium and large. Tried to slowly wrench it off with the pullers but that was a failure.

Then used my air compressor with impact gun, with the pullers - not moving.

I applied heat to the pulley to expand its grip on the water pump shaft then impacted the puller - not moving.

I whittled the shaft to assist the pulley in coming off the shaft Same results.

This is some kind of black magic! (More than likely I am not attaching the puller where it needs to be to move the pulley up the shaft)

Probably going to get a new (rebuilt) water
pump and dig through my box if 50 year old pulleys to find one close enough to spin the alternator and call it a day.

 

Is it? If it is, what was the plan to service these when they were made? Is the pully also part of the shaft?

We did not live in a disposable culture then. Everything got rebuilt, because it could be.

What then is the plan to take this off?

Humor us and provide help.

 

IIRC those cast pulleys showed up on aftermarket AC conversions too...

 

The fan hub or pilot hub must be part of the pulley. That is where I have been placing the force screw when attempting to pull the pulley off.

When I bought this disassembled SBC it was in boxes, and was told the original application was a '67 C-10 with P/S only and manual transmission. I haven't dealt with this type of cast iron water pump pulley previously so it is a mystery to me. I thought some guys more experienced than me would know.

 

Not that I’ve seen it all, but have never seen a 3 rib WP pulley or a 4 rib crank pulley on a passenger vehicle.
You could verify it was actually in a ‘67 PU by looking through RockAuto, etc, but I think it’s as @nosford said, more of an industrial application.

 

just shitcan that pump and lower pulley, and get normal car stuff, and be done with it.

 

Why do you want take it off? It matches the crank pulleys. PS, AC, Gen/alt, vacuum pump, etc. Looks neat with holes.

 

I think the fan pilot is integral with the pulley assembly. Is it possibly bolted in from the rear...? May be jacking bolts through the fan attachment holes can push it off...?

 

This is how I do 40-48 flathead Ford pumps (with cast iron pulleys), and yours looks similar:

Take the back tin cover off the water pump and support the housing in that area so the inner workings can be pressed out through the back. Then you can press the shaft through the pulley with round stock. The housing will hold the pulley at the backside of the center where it's strong, and won't break off the fragile outer ring.

Then you can support the new pump at the back of the new inner shaft as you press the cast pulley onto it. Don't just think the tin cover will support the new shaft in the correct position. Make sure you are supporting the shaft itself.

 

I agree it looks neat, but running a 50+ year old WP probably isn’t the best move.

 

I agree with you but he's in Norway ... probably easier said than done

 

Just pull the belts and tap on the back side of the pulley. An SBC water pump should have a 4 bolt flange that the pulley lays over.

 

Tell us about the studs. Are they threaded into the water pump hub? Can you take off the pump, and set the pulley down so it is supported by the studs, and drive the pulley downward using a hammer and block of wood? You might want to replace the studs with longer bolts first, they should be 5/16" SAE fine thread.

 

Could there be any screws on the back side of the pulley? It seems unlikely that its pressed on because that would put all the pressure against the impeller when installing. A quick check of a RockAuto replacement pump for a 327 shows this similar (but not identical) pump. If you notice, it has two bolt patterns for mounting the pulley/fan and the nub in the middle is fairly short. Don't know if this is to accomodate use on multiple vehicles or to allow some type of rear mounting . Also notice that it doesn't have a centering hole in the shaft like the pulley in your picture.
(should this thread be moved to the "Stump Squirrel" thread ? )
(Just kiddin squirrel )
After looking again, my GUESS is that the studs are frozen in the pulley, but screw into the pump. I think the studs need to come out. Thats the only thing that seems to make sense as there has to be something with threads protruding from the flange on the pump out to the fan.

 

You can't see the pump's shaft in the picture of the truck setup. The pilot for the fan, is part of the pulley, on that one.

 

Yes Jim, that was what I was alluding to. The pulley has a centering hole while the Rock Auto Pump does not have a centering hole. The Rockauto pump has a short shaft which would not be protruding far enough to stick thru the pulley that far. So if the op is using a puller and pressing against that centering hole, it would not be trying to move the pulley off the shaft, but only pulling against itself. I should have been more clear in what I was trying to say.

I was editing my above post at the same time you were typing. I think its the studs threaded thru into the waterpump flange and may have rust holding the studs to the pulley as they pass thru it..........but I been wrong before

 

That's probably what I'll do and shelf the w/p for later use and tear down.

I do like the look very much but when I added antifreeze today it leaked from the front and back. Front seal leak and rear cover had a tiny rust hole upon inspection. It spins freely and without noise. I wanted to get the engine broken in a little before installation so I guess it's good I found it now.

 

The pump is worth nothing .
Take it apart and hack the pulley off , looks like the pulley is just good and seized on, if your pulley is the same as this a puller won’t work to take it off
I would take the pump out it in a vice out a bearing separator on the back of the pulley or a 3-4 jaw pulley and attach it to a slide hammer . Couple whacks and I bet the pulley is off .

completely useless pulley , but I think it looks neat , snd if I could I would run it just because it looks cool

 

It's been almost 50 years since I was around water pumps being rebuilt and then they were Pontiac on warranty, but all the pieces are press fit together.

This being a photo of a kit for a Chevy small block short pump that expired long ago on Ebay.

 

I took the studs out when I whittled the hub attempting to get the pulley off. Here are a few photos of the pump & pulley. The new pump is with the old pump. I dig those balancing holes on the front of the pulley.

 

Now that you've got it out and on the bench, and the pulley is trashed anyway, can you heat the pulley in the middle with a torch and try to drive a chisel between the hub and the backside of the pulley to see if it will seperate? Just curious...

 

Yep, looks like I was wrong. Seems you just need something like a narrow wedge to dig in between the pulley and the hub back there. A couple good thwacks should free it up.

 

I'd put in four bolts into the hub, so they are sticking out past the pulley a little ways, turn it over, and drop it onto the bolt heads a few times.

 

^^^^^THIS^^^^^ Drop it on concrete or some other hard surface.

 

If this was me, I'd pound some wood between the pump and the pulley in numerous places then get some vibration going by smacking the pump with a big hammer. I would do this with no regard for the safety of your original pump as you have a replacement. As for the pulley itself, is it even usable now that the fan locating stump/pin/dowel appears to have been removed?

 

Anything is fixable if you want it bad enough. But after all this B.S., I'd be going with a factory stamped steel one!