Looking for a Fire Extinguisher system for the Willys, one that I can plum nozzle's to the engine bay, under dash, gas tank area. What's out there that you like? Thanks!
Not cheap, but I would trust this guy's stuff-https://timmcamis.com/ He also has a video on YouTube about them.
Many styles exist. Race sanctioning body’s usually dictate types. Some make one hell of a mess and others not so much. Under the hood I like to drown it on our SCTA vehicle so I circle the engine compartment with 4 nozzles. Inside it’s one nozzle under the column and it’s a gas as our car is a open roadster. A moving car is different than stopped also. I’ve never used a rear tank so I can’t comment. Manufactures have recommendations and instruction with their kits. Research fire suppression systems.
Agree to check with your race sanctioning body as to what they require. Then evaluate the options to meet that. The clean gas systems are not cheap. But they could save your hide.
Watch the video posted by @egads, Tim knows his shit and his shop builds some of the fastest drag cars out there.
Just to be clear I won't be racing or have any rules to follow, just trying to protect my investment the best I can! Thanks to all!
When I was 16 I was in the engine room of a Chris Craft when the CO2 system was shorted and went off. I was lucky, all the hatches were open and I got out. 40 years later I was on an industrial site where a couple guys ignored the safety procedures and went into a tank. The system fired and one didn’t get out. Pick a major sanctioning body for a vehicle like yours, and follow the rules for the system. No point in having it intact if you don’t get out.
As much as I dislike following the rules I will say this. The NHRA has been serious about safety for a long time. Your car is drag inspired. I would build the system close to what they suggest. They have reasons they want it that way.
Land speed racers are the most prepared for fire, they often can't get help for a couple minutes out there, so their systems have to be good. My go to guy is Joe Timney at Delaware Chassis works. (772)210-2713. Joe is the Firefox fire suppression dealer.
I have a fiberglass body and a tilt front end, to get the tilt to open you have to take off the blower scoop and undo 2 Duez fasteners and that's after you find a tool to turn them. By then there would be no need to open the tilt. That's mainly why I brought the subject up.
That’s why most LSR drivers have a Duez tool velcoed in their car and ez to reach. The competitors with the Allen socket style are really dumb not to have one handy. Needing to take the scoop off is your deal…I would definitely have a system in a circle style that keep the pressure the same at every nozzle.
Hello, When my brother and I built our first hot rod/drag racer, it was a 1940 Willys Coupe. we had the interior full of aluminum sheeting as the motor was set back 10 percent as per rules. We took out the original seats and installed small foreign car bucket seats to give us more legroom as well as overall coupe interior room. Between the seats was the ever present fire extinguisher as per rules. It looked like the photo above. Red, with a fitting chrome metal bracket with quick release clips. It was handy and in our backyard, it was easily unclipped and pulled out for emergencies. But, during the last race ever for our 40 Willys 671 292 SBC powered coupe in the C/Gas class, the fire extinguisher was a no go situation. My brother was ahead of the opponent and was easily going to win the class for the evening. But, as things go, the clutch exploded and the whole interior was a ball of flames. When the flying parts hit the shield, blew that apart and the bits went all over, cutting the gas lines, as well as exploding the Moon Tank. As practiced, my brother reached down to unclip the release bracket and take out the extinguisher. But, going 100 plus mph and steering, while trying to use the fire extinguisher was not working as planned. The extinguisher emptied, but did nothing. There was nothing left to do, so my brother jumped out after the timing lights, going about 60mph as per the statements by the return road racers. Jnaki So, it is a good thing to use those fancy hose, nozzle units pointed at the future culprits. But, as they are required for the competition events, is it too much for street usage? Now that more information is out, it seems like a Velcro attached or small clips for a removal tool is necessary. Perhaps if the scoop is the culprit to a quick opening move for the front end, a new design is necessary instead of still having to fight the opening with tool attached. But, since you are not drag racing or entered in any high speed events, is a spray system necessary? It seems like it is overkill for a hard to open, flip front end. With the new technology in fire extinguishers, maybe a couple of these would make the situation less hectic or expensive. Plus, these little guys leave no white residue after the flames are out, if you have flames. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ew-under-the-sun.1223197/page-4#post-14199697
Are you wanting a fire system that can be activated from inside the car and/or a fire extinguisher to manually put out a fire? The Element fire extinguisher MIGHT work better (as a fire extinguisher) in a closed hood situation (see below quote). It is activated like a road flare is, so it's operated manually.
We have a "firebottle " system in our racecar . two nozzles under hood one next to driver and one over gas tank . Never had to use it so cant tell you much more
Dupont FE-36 I believe? I have the Element next to seat, that should take care of inside & under dash fires. Will want a bottle and nozzles for engine bay, trunk/gas tank area. Bottles are huge and heavy, have to think it out!
DJ Safety sells the COLD FIRE System and is what most racers use these days. The down side to these are , they leave a messy residue after use, if you have to send them back in for recert, you must discharge them or pay a hazmat fee in order to ship them back, and you need to get an extra bottle in case you discharge by accident early in the event and sends you home (only if the class requires a system). I use SAFECRAFT for my required system which uses a freon/halon gas for the fire suppression. shipping discharge is still required to send it back for cert, the benefit of this content is that it leaves no residue to clean up, and the bottles are smaller, but it is a lot more expensive
Fire suppression systems are not designed for daily driver use. I would be more concerned about the bottles not firing after bouncing around for months or even years. I would fix the method of opening your hood and carry a couple QUALITY fire extinguishers.
Hood and blower scoop will remain as is! I don't see off road worriors having any problems with shake rattle and roll!
We used cold fire on our dragster and F/C. Two nozzles ,one on each frontside of the engine and two on me. Lippy
If you're not racing at sanctioned events, there aren't any rules to follow, besides common sense. I went to some effort on my Chevy II to make it so I can easily get to the engine. The hood has hinges at the back, two hood pins at the front, and a prop rod that I can lift up to hold the hood open. It takes just a few seconds to get the hood open. I carry a fire extinguisher in the car in case anything happens while I'm on the road. I take it out at the track, when I get the car ready to race. I figure it will do more good sitting in the pits, than bouncing around in the car when something goes sideways. And the safety crew will likely be able to get to me sooner than I could do much myself. If you have a really fast car, or racing on a long track, where it takes a lot of time to come to a stop, and for the safety guys to reach you, you need enough fire suppression on board to keep you from burning up. And be wearing a fire suit with a long enough time rating. For street use...you might want to see what you can do to make it easier to get the hood open.
You have a large investment in that car looks like. And it is fiberglass. Ever see a glass body burn? I would invest in a fire suppression system. Hit the knob, it's out. Lippy
Fuel funnycars (big show and nostalgia) are required to paint the inside of the body with a fireproof suppression paint, while it still burns, it slows it down considerably because the the paint gasses off when heated
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