As everybody knows the mechanical fuel pump diapraghm did not hold long with the modern fuels of today. So, there a few options, switch over to a electrical fuel pump en buy a new diapraghm that is E10 resistant. In my country its not so easy to get a E10 resistant diapraghm, i can walk in to a auto store but they didnt have pats for old flatties... I know, i can order the parts in the USA but takes time an cost a a lot of postage money and import taxes. So, after i little thinking i ordered a piece of Viton rubber (1 mm), take the old ruined diapragm apart and build a new one. Its even a lot cheaper than buying a new one, this cost me 5$ on viton rubber and 1 hour work.
Thank you for doing this, and posting your process. It is refreshing to see a solution thread, instead of yet another complaint thread.
Great idea, thanks for posting! I´m also trying to rather rebuild parts whenever possible or reasonable . I was thinking about this when my flatty pump diaphragm ripped last year, but I didn´t know what kind of rubber would withstand E10 fuels. Good to learn that viton is the stuff to use. Thanks!
It's funny, when I was into Euro imports I did all kinds of workarounds like this, as the parts were very expensive, no longer available, or very long wait time. On your side of the pond, it's the exact same thing....only with American imports.
thanks for all your reply's. I ordered the viton rubber locally at a rubber bussines that sells rubber for industrial features. When you do a google search you will find some local bussiness that sells the viton rubber, also available in china but i dont know what the quality is then
Good to see someone else does this. I rebuilt my first one using viton in 1994, when I got my '37 Buick. Instead of welding the lower diaphragm brace back on, I use a 1/4 or 5/16 bolt, cut the head off, heat and hammer the unthreaded end flat, then cut a slot in it. Then I just use nuts on both sides of the diaphragm. It makes the next rebuild a lot easier.
You can also carefully grind off the peened over metal that holds the diaphragm with its washers onto the pull rod, then drill and tap the end for a screw. It helps to do it in a lathe but I've done it by hand.