Not sure if I'm posting this in the correct place. Has anyone installed a poly tank in a 1940 Ford Sedan, I asked because the metal tank has the nuts (for the mounting bolts) on the tank, Which I removed. And replacing with the poly tank, and it does not have captured nuts on it. So I'm wondering how did you get the nuts on the mounting bolts on the poly tank, not much room. (Body is on the car) Thanks [/ATTACH]
Never done it, but longer bolts and some big washers or brackets to spread the load look to be in order
When I installed a TANKS INC. polypropylene tank in my 1940 Ford coupe I used toggle bolts. With the tank out of the car, I used very strong adhesive glue to fasten the open toggle in position on the tank and let it dry over night. You could also make your own threaded plate but, I preferred the toggle. Glue some good gasket material to the flange of the tank that rests on your frame to prevent chaffing of your tank. Next day I positioned tank in the car and installed bolts that matched the threaded toggle. Do not over tighten as it's not going to fall out. You may also decide to install a drain plug like the original tank has. I used 1/8-27 NPT. The drain plug is made of nylon. Here's the plug: Buy a spare. They are cheap and shipping cost more than the plug. Here's the plug. https://www.mcmaster.com/nylon-pipe-fitting-plugs/ Here is the LEXEL adhesive sealant /adhesive I used to hold the toggle in place . https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lexel-5-fl...VUhXUAR1pjgbOEAQYASABEgJ7E_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Here is the sealant I used on the threads of the drain plug. Do not over tighten. https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...VqxXUAR0i2AqVEAQYAiABEgIUH_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds I now think the sealer/adhesive I used on the toggle could be used on the drain plug threads. DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE ON THE DRAIN PLUG THREADS AS ITS NOT RESISTANT TO GAS. If you are still going to use your 6 Volt 1940 Ford OEM gas tank sending unit, it will not match up with the screw holes in your plastic tank. You will have to make new holes or use the aftermarket adapter plate that is available. Plus your new tank is vented differently according to federal law. Your new tank will extend down lower as it holds 16 gallons. Original held 14. Be sure to get all this "squared way" before you re-install your tank. Since your tank is plastic be sure to run a separate ground wire from your gas tank sending unit to the frame of your car. One last thought, before you install your poly tank in your car hook up your gas tank sending unit after you install it in your new tank and (with the tank on the ground) outside your car, close off the fuel outlet and attach your filler pipe. Then fill the tank with water - 1 gallon at a time- to see if it registers correctly with your gauge reading. Write down the reading of your gauge after you pour in each gallon of water so you'll have an idea as to how much fuel is left in your tank as it empties. One it registers correctly, pour out the water and install tank in your car. I know this sounds crazy but, it might save you lots of work later on and give you "peace of mind" when you are driving, especially on longer trips. PS: Spring spreader was not required for installing the new tank. At the time photo was taken I was removing the rear end.
There is no brackets with the poly tank. The captured nuts are on the metal tank and will not transfer to the poly tank. Thanks
hello did your box have a hole in the bottom as there should be two brackets that sit on the frame rails and the tank sits on them loooook at the width of your poly tank versus the oem tank, its shorter I don't know if it s because you cannot make the hypotenuse when fitting from underneath or whatever, but you need them......... i am going to throw into the mix. 1. how do you ground the steel filler neck from static 2. because of the stiffening losenge in the middle, IF you fit one of the 6 bolt gm 12 volt senders, you need to cut the float shaft down to about 4''!!! 3. they should come with a 6 bolt to 5 bolt sender mount converter - ideal for fitting a gm sender into a oem tank........ and yes, why are there no rubber bobbins so the tank is kept from moving side to side. another one to TANKS INC why not simply 'for example' find the fuel system pressure required for a ford flat head -what ever it is locate a self regulating internal returning fuel pump from a modern vehicle that uses a poly tank - say for example a 2 litre ford from 2005, take this pump and the big plastic threaded nut and make your tank receive the push fit pump and use the oem style click fitting anti surge bucket with the oem sock filter - bond in the click fitting into your tank BECAUSE you not ONLY SOLVE the complete arse - ache of cutting the tank to fit an after market pump and steel surge bowl YOU CAN THEN USE THE BUILT IN FUEL SENDER AND ITS ALL PLARSTEEK so you can run 10 percent rust causer fuel moan over p.s. a hoover is needed to suck out all the plastic swarf when cutting the hole.
That is a great tutorial, 19Forty. But I would think that when testing your gauge it might be better to have the tank mounted in the car when filling it one gallon at a time. That way you can account for any slope the tank might take when it is mounted, and you could use gas and eliminate the need to ensure the water has been entirely removed. I have a polypropylene tank for my 38 and will be using your suggestions. Thx!
simplestone: You make a very good suggestion. I finally did install the tank in the car with the car on a level surface and then did add 1 gal. of gas at a time and recorded the fuel gauge reading after adding each gal. up to 16 gal. However, after adding the drain plug it was easy to remove all the water prior to filling with gasolene. That is one of the reasons I added a drain plug.
more moaning...... in the open area of the stiffening losenge, increase this area to receive a stock carbon cannister I don't care from which manufacturer, its not for a fuel return as the pump is self internally regulating - its a vapour return, controlled by a little widget doo hickey that has a plug on the loom - so you need it working also supply especially for a 37 a filler neck with an internal vent tube , as I am sure gasoline was pumped slower back then -BECAUSE you can't get the vent higher than the gas cap when they are in a pickup. anyways, can you not simply do some kind of internal self regulating internal pump that has adjustable pressure? - I simply do not understand why they are rated by engine size over the actual pounds per square inch indicated in the workshop manual. so to recap 37 poly tank self regulating adjustable pressure pump with click fit surge stock bowl and fuel level sender stock modern style with a plastic screw on cap that is recessed into tank so it clears a pick up or trunk floor - plastic fill tube with internal vent, click fit carbon cannister with push fit nylon connectors for vapour return. thanks! physics - - flow -- liquid over surface when filling = static.
nobby: Regarding your question about static electricity. I ran a wire from the OEM sending unit that I installed in the poly tank to ground on the frame on the driver side and then ran another wire from the same grounding point on the frame to the OEM metal filler tube. This photo of the trunk floor shows green ground wire to the frame.
Where did you mount it ? As I worked on it today for a short time, to mount the valve higher then then the inlet would have to be inside the wheel well, don't see any where to mount under the vehicle. Sorry for so many questions. Thanks
Your questions are fine. I just took these photos. You can see that I mounted a metal strap to the top of the existing cross frame member using a hole that was already there. Before mounting the strap, I bent it to make it sit as high as possible and then installed the poly tank vent on the top of the strap. It's not as high as the fuel tank filler tube inlet but, it's as high as I could get it. Been like that for 5 years. Hopefully, we'll never have a rollover. Car is a 40 Ford. Hope this helps.
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