I picked this up as an engine donor for my other Shoebox, but I think I might make it my daily driver. It runs well but is a little cosmetically challenged. The paint looks like someone had a good time with a few rattle cans. Should I keep it 6 volt or go to 12. I’d also like to replace the distributor, I’ve got a old flat top Mallory for a sbc, I just need to find someone who can convert it. Also is there a good way to swap out exhaust manifolds so the exhaust doesn’t wrap around the front, I’d like to run duels on it.
I run 6 volt on both of my '51's and my '40 and my '29 AV8 avatar. Those all have stock generators. My '27 T roadster is 6 volt but it has an alternator. For some reason T's and A's stock generators hate me, so both my Model A stockers have GM single wire 12 volt alternators. Just make sure you run BIG HEAVY battery and starter cables on 6 volt. Dave
Daily old car, daily or daily got to get to work daily? I run 6V on mine and it "could be" a daily, for a little while. Having one that is 6V I can see what a pain in the butt converting one over really is, at least to do it right. It's not quite the piece of cake it's made out to be. 6v will be lot cheaper and less trouble if you can repair the stuff correctly. 12V takes some work, some special parts but it's more compatible with other cars and extras you might want to add. Not be ugly, but why? If you are planning to change carburetors, this is the first step and it's needed. On the other hand, if you are running the stock carburetor, honestly nothing is better on the 8BA but the stock distributor matched to the stock carburetor. Not really. There is the Cheesy way, and the right way. The cheesy way is to get or make a block off plate for the passenger exhaust where the cross-over comes in. On the driver's manifold exit, curl the pipe to the back. This was actually done a lot, way back when. The right way to do it is a set of headers. If you notice the passenger manifold is a good bit larger than the driver's side. This is because it handles both sides. There is a scavenging effect. I do believe old articles from the 1950s show that the factory crossover single exhaust was superior to the factory system converted to duals like mentioned above. Headers and true duals do make a little improvement. Mine has done fine and been really cold the past 2 winters. The trick is a good battery, good proper size cables and good components. Old worn-out stuff is just that. That car as a daily.... As mentioned, mine "could be". It took took a heck of a lot of work, I mean a heck of a lot of work to get it there. New brakes, new tires, new exhausts, new wheel bearings, gas tank, lines, carburetor, on...and ...on ....there's still plenty to do. Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr Many a late night....
I daily my 53 Plymouth. Still 6 volt positive ground. Like said above, as long as everything is up to snuff, you shouldn't have any problems. Been high 30's here in the morning and it lights right off. I did spend a little time adjusting my Sisson choke but it starts with no issues every day.
@Kickstarter I don't know if they are still available but I bought a brand new drivers side dual exhaust cast iron manifold from Bob Drake 10 years ago for my '51 Club Coupe. Hate to admit it but I have not installed it YET. Going to do an engine swap to a fresh flatty hopefully this summer. Dave Well, I looked and Bob Drake doesn't seem to list it and Shoebox Central has a listing but no longer available.
I got one of those Bob Drake manifolds a little more than a year ago, but I haven't seen them available since then. It was a nice kit with a block off plate for the front of the right manifold and all the gaskets needed for the job. Maybe there isn't enough call for them anymore to produce any more.
I had a 54 Chrysler with a hemi and a 6 volt system. The only time it didn't start was the night it dropped to -20 degrees and the old Chrysler was outside. A two year old 66 Mercury (12 volt) in the machine shed also wouldn't start. The only thing I got to start was a Allis Chalmers WD which also had a 6 volt system. It got up to near zero by mid day and I was able to get the Chrysler started with jumper cables off the tractor. A warm set of plugs and a warm charged battery got the Mercury started. Other than that one time, the 6 volt Chrysler never failed me.
Thanks, since it’s six volts now, I’m going to leave it that way and see how it goes. F-ONE, I am planning on swapping the intake to a Edmunds with two carbs that I have, that’s why I want to change the distributor out. For anyone that’s used the Aerostar front springs, how was the ride after doing the swap, looks like it’s a 2 to 2.5 inch drop. I don’t want to feel like I’m in a mini truck from the 80’s bouncing of the bump stops all the time. Does anyone have a pair of Aerostar springs they’d sell?
I have a set of Aerostar springs in my '51 Club Coupe. I have never had a problem with it bottoming out, but then again, I don't drive on the kind of roads that cause such problems. The addition of a set of radial tires and the Aerostar springs also improved the handling an amazing amount. I had just installed a new set of stock equivalent shocks on it so I left them on. No problems with them, either. My first car in 1957 was a '51 Four Door, but mine was "Custom".
I like that car, and yes perfect for a driver... Buy some "Reds" headers and go with your dual exhaust. Six volt batteries are fine. Just need to use very HEAVY cables... and no not 12v cables. Personal opinion.. Drop it all the way around ~3-4", remove the hub caps, and drive/enjoy it like it is
My coupe had cut stock springs and rode terrible and leaned in the corners. Also had 3 inch lowering blocks in the rear. The driveshaft would hit the tunnel. The rear springs are pretty flat so I cut the blocks down to 1.5" and installed aerostar springs ($58 from maybe Amazon? Don't recall) in the front and short bump stops. Rides SO much better! They are progressive rate springs. Dave
This is a cool vintage piece but it's not for a 8BA. It's for a 59A and earlier. If you put in a 8BA, you'll have to address the vent/draft tube issue. In my opinion, all the "fixes" for this issue are not adequate. If it was mine, I'd just find a 8BA intake. That's the easiest solution.
Thanks, I’m new to flathead Ford engines, I thought it would work. Well now to start looking for another intake!
Picked it up today, now the fun starts. And yes the wiring is sketchy at best, bare wires everywhere under the hood. Who makes a good stock harness? https://www.instagram.com/vintagepureheaven/reel/CZN6DybOE2T/?utm_medium=copy_link
The Jalopy Journal
