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Technical Radiator Cap Over Pressurized

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Duende, Jan 18, 2022.

  1. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    Elcohaulic, I feel this may be a good temporary solution but sounds like I may have other issues that need addressing. Especially if there is a crack in the manifold, etc. I need to do a compression test as well. I am a little worried that if I drill the hole the coolant is just going to volcano out through the hole. I will try the test of taking off the cap and seeing what happens. Thanks for the advice! It may work and allow the exhaust fumes to escape if that is what one of the issues is too?
     
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  2. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    F-ONE, those are all good points. Systematically check this engine! I looked to see what I could find out about this aluminum radiator and it says it was made in Italy. I think I took a pic of that sticker. I'll see if I can upload in a few minutes.
     
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  3. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Duende,
    For what it's worth,
    I'm running a 8BA in my 51 Coupe. I've had flathead vehicles off and on since 1992. I've always ran original radiators with no recovery system.
    I have run a 302 in a 50 F1 with the original radiator.
    I have found that they like to run, about 2" or so below the cap. Any more they will blow it out.
    The puke bottle was just to catch the water puked out.
    These were not a pressurized vacuum suck in...suck out... like the modern systems.
     
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  4. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Duende,
    I would try to find out why it's got a new radiator in it. Was it an "upgrade"? or.... Were they chasing a problem?

    When I bought my '50 Business coupe, I had to get the radiator re-cored. A trip around the block and the radiator was leaking at the seams. Like I said in the posts above. It would run all day cool but put it under load, it would over pressurize the system blow the water out and get hot.
    The original radiators were really rather low pressure.

    The radiator was not the issue. The engine problem took out the radiator.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2022
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  5. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    How is the gauge set up? It's possible for one side of the engine to be hot and the other in operating temperature.

    A flathead has two water pumps. It's possible for one pump to fail thus only overheating one side.

    Some people run two mechanical gauges, one for each side. Ford had the temp sender on the driver's head. On the passenger head was a "trip" sender. The actual temp was measured through the driver head but if the passenger head over heated, the trip sender would send the dash gauge to hot.
     
  6. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,179

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    yep, some testing/experimenting in your immediate future - post a pic of your overflow tank - due to the two hoses used the "modern" recovery flow system will not function as designed - do not not fill radiator to top/run 7LB cap (I found mine at NAPA Auto Parts) - hope that you have good news to share later - Good looking car
     
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  7. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 2,321

    dwollam
    Member

    If it has thermostats, could they be upside down? As a kid, I did that on a 59ab in my '39 coupe many moons ago! It got hot and blew out like crazy. Installed them correctly and problem went away. Can't believe I just admitted that! Oh well, it's been 50 years since I did it.

    Dave
     
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  8. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    Thanks Jalopy Joker! I will take a pic of the overflow tank and send later after work.
     
  9. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    Dave, it could totally be possible the stats are in upside down, except it doesn't seem to run hot. Many mods were done to this car. Unfortunately, I have no clue who did them or when. I think the PO or whoever did the mods were chasing a problem because there are aftermarket gauges and a toggle switch that turns a fan on to blow hot air through the radiator. So, I'm thinking at some point this engine was getting too hot and they chased that problem with trying some different mods. I need to do a compression test too. I still need to find the VIN # and register the damn thing. Only have had about a week.
     
  10. KenC
    Joined: Sep 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,045

    KenC
    Member

    I don't have nearly the experience others do with Henry's flatheads. That said back in the 60s that was a common set of symptoms for a crack, valve seat to cylinder. I once pulled the heads from 24 engines (Dad owned a salvage) looking for a block use in a '53 I was fixing up. Had to settle for one that needed one sleeve. Not many shops would fix a crack, cheaply, back then.

    If it were mine, I'd borrow some later technology and get a kit to test for combustion gases in the coolant. Quick, easy and positive way to ID a gasket, or block/head crack. If it's negative then you can explore the other possibilities. I sure wish those had been available way back when. A lot of people chased water pump, radiator, fan, etc problems for weeks before pulling the heads.
     
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  11. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    Good Idea KenC. I will buy one of these kits as a start to find out what I'm chasing here. Thanks!
     
  12. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    Is this what I'm looking for?
    WIX Coolant Tester
     
  13. KenC
    Joined: Sep 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,045

    KenC
    Member

    This ishttps://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/loaner-tools/engine---clutch-loaner-tools/2a06ea1d698c/rental-tools-evertough-combustion-leak-tester/ren1/67094/v/a/128490/automotive-truck-2014-toyota-tacoma?q=rental+tools%3A+engine+%26+clutch&pos=7 the tool:
    Part of Oreilly's tool rental program. Buy the tool (and the test fluid), return the tool and get a full refund. Your only net cost is the test fluid.
     
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  14. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,730

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    AutoZone does this too, but they “rent” the fluid. You just have to return the empty bottle to get your deposit back.

    Yes, it’s free fluid. No, that doesn't make sense to me either.
     
  15. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    Well, this is super interesting! I will likely try Auto zone if it's all free. They are both equally close to my house too. Thanks for the help you guys!
     
  16. Please let us know the outcome of your problem.
     
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  17. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    I sure will! Have to register it today so probably won't have a chance until the weekend. Thanks everyone!
     
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  18. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    Hey everyone,
    I have an update. I got the rental tool from O'Reilly for combustion leak checks. I followed the directions and first had to siphon out about two to three inches of coolant from the radiator. Went forward with warming up the engine and then did the test. The leak check fluid did not change color and stayed blue throughout the two plus minutes I pumped the tester tool. So I ran the test from a cool idle to a "hot" idle engine (170-180°F). I'll try to upload some some pics. It got dark on me but my work light was a good buddy.
    I am wondering if I have been running the car with too much coolant? I need to take her out and see what happens I guess. Not sure what next steps would be and if I have a problem or I'm overreacting?
     

    Attached Files:

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  19. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

  20. As others said earlier, let the coolant find its happy level. If it doesn’t overheat your good. Sometimes we overthink this stuff
     
  21. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    Another thing I forgot to mention is that I believe I saw the coolant bubbling like it was boiling after it was running at warm to hot idle when the cap was still off after the test. Not sure if that is normal or something else?
     

    Attached Files:

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  22. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    I think you are fine.
    I would run it and keep an eye on the temp gauge.
    [​IMG]
    If these are your only functional gauges, I would consider running another temp gauge, one for each head. You don't really have too, but it's a good idea.
    I would try the lower pressure cap.
    Thinking about it though...my modern cars will have pressure for a while after they cool down.
    This may be a non-issue, but I would keep an eye on it.
     
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  23. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    F-ONE, thanks for the reply! I appreciate all here helping me. Can you look at the photo of the new gauges and the pic of the "vintage" original gauges. They seem to match up pretty nicely the way I see it. I'll look into a new lesser pressure rad cap, that should help move coolant into the relief tank...
     
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  24. B.A.KING
    Joined: Apr 6, 2005
    Posts: 4,039

    B.A.KING
    Member

    did you change caps yet ?? 4-7 pounds???
     
  25. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    Not yet. Will get one when I take the tester back tomorrow. Hope it works!
     
  26. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    OK...
    I thought those original gauges looked like they were working. I did not know for sure. That's great!
    I assume whoever built the car used the proper stuff for the original gauges to work. It's wonderful that they are working and it shows great care by the builder.
    Great car!
     
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  27. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    Maybe you're right and I should drill a hole in the cap. What size would you recommend?
     
  28. Put as aluminum radiator in a 54 Chevy the cap I had did not fit the neck as it should. A file and some time it fit. The cap pictured is a very cheap made cap. Get a name brand and see if it fits better and works better.
     
  29. Duende
    Joined: Jan 16, 2022
    Posts: 27

    Duende
    Member

    Great advice! Thank you. I will do that.
     
  30. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Filling a top tank vertical tube radiator Tank to the top rather than eating room for expansion is probably one of the things new to old cars guys do and have issues with on a constant basis. As the others said, leave a couple of inches of air space at the top and let the system find its HAPPY spot
     
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