Let's see some sheet metal shaping

Thanks!

 

Another 32 front fender bead patch. The owner plans on welding it in.

I first make the radius leading up to the bead.


Leaving the inside closed helps by holding the shape.
Mark and trim allowing for the part that wraps around the wire.

Then I tip the edge that will wrap around the wire.
The dies I made to make the bead guide off of the flange.

 

I dig that ruler !!!!

 

My father-in-law's 35 plymouth panel below the trunk.
Bad before picture.

Started by shrinking with thumbnail dies and wheeled out the shape.

Tuned it up with the shrinker/stretcher.

Tipped the edges. I had to heat shrink the flange.




this is the inner panel. I have some blasting to do before it goes back together.

 

Hobby lobby! I love it too!

 

Thanks !

 

Thanks...

 

Here's another useful one.
magnetic

 

In your second video "Repairing a cracked fender" go to around 13:48 and look to the right side of your video and you will see "SNOW" floating around. That Snow is sanding dust from your filler being blown around the garage and it is WHAT YOU ARE INHALING INTO YOUR LUNGS. Please wear a mask. My mentor, a long time bodyman, died from throat cancer he was told it was from years of inhaling that same type of dust.

 

French curves are another great source of shapes. I have an overhead projector I use to make larger sizes like these.

 

Handy stuff to have.

 

Also mold sweeps; once used by the auto industry designers to lay out body panels, etc. before CAD.

 

Check out what Ernie Adams in Casa Grande, AZ did with limited tools and resources.
He used old refrigerators for sheet metal. Has a museum of dwarf cars. Pretty talented!

Dwarf Cars - YouTube

 

Good videos, thanks.

 

Hey @66gmc, great video! Loved the music and the humour. You skills are VERY good and I realize your self deprecating comments is part of the humour.

You wouldn’t need Patreon support if you didn’t spend so much damn money on your wardrobe!

Are you the guy who helped Scott on an episode of ColdWarMotors about a couple of months back?

 

Thank you, and yes I visited Scott a few months ago.

 

@66gmc, I really appreciate you posting your videos. You have a very effective way of explaining your process, and your sharing will help me on some of my projects.

 

@Crocodile I agree with you. Glad I found this and the @66gmc YouTube channel. Count me as another subscriber!

 

@66gmc, thanks for sharing the videos. You made me a subscriber, too.

 

Carl Swift Lion's Dragstrip Museum

2017 original Lion’s Dragstrip Museum competition car display area

Hello,

In thinking back to the day I photographed this old Ford drag racing car, I was impressed with the overall look and style. It took me back to the day my wife and I went to central OC to see a black 50 Ford coupe with a Flathead motor.

The style of the 50 Ford was very mild, but nice for the two of us. Chrome wheels, black walls, floor shifter, and the interior was stock, but was clean. The black paint was good and it sounded good. The price was in our range and we were leaning toward buying it. But, it was just that my wife did not like the seller’s attitude and we left without buying the Ford.

Jnaki

We all associate old memories with what is seen in front of you while visiting various places in our lifetimes... The Original Lion's Dragstrip Museum was such a place that made those old memories start a flood of color flowing in the brain.

I spent some time looking at this orange Ford race car for some time. The interior was finished with a lot of intricate work and looked like a show car. A lot of time and effort went into this interior. The paint on the other hand was straight from the competition era and it looked like it just came from the elimination rounds. It did have the cool attitude look.

The metal work on the Flathead engine compartment was also immaculate.

The one thing competitors saw were the tail lights and not this cool looking front end. Moon tank and all…

 

We are presently adapting defroster vents to make use of heater hose (to fit VA heater box), we needed to add a bead in the tubing to better retain the hose attached. The beading die we made for this purpose on the bead roller was too large to fit the 1-1/4" tube, so another tool is in order.. Our worn out Southbend was used to make the round profiles, with a step in the bottom die to act as a backstop for better consistency in bead placement.





I don't have much in the form of hardened tool steel for making specialized cutters for the lathe, so I used a 3/4" square cutter from the Lennox to form the following for making the concave shape.. the male counterpart was done on the fly...





The 4140 square stock was squared on both ends, then a relief added for our round profile to rest in.








Our c-clamps had a VEE notch that would assist in keeping the round bits from moving, so that was used in lieu of a vise..








The infinitely adjustable clamps worked well, the TIG was used to add a fusion weld around the perimeter (no filler rod)








After welding, the assembly is heated to a straw color (pre-blue) and dipped in our official Mickey Thompson fluid container (transmission fluid) to harden things up a bit.





Here are the dies in use, take note of what happens when you don't keep pressure against the backstop.... No harm no foul, a couple more passes cleans it right up...











That should help to keep the hose in place...

 

Really nice job. Thanks for the part about hardening the dies. I'll do that.
I took a different tack to do tubing beads since I do not have a Pullmax. I made a set of dies for my home-built bead roller. There is some outside die slippage due to the dissimilar diameters of the dies, but it will do the job.

 

More work on the 35 Plymouth.
I wheeled out a top insert. There was a piece of galvanized screwed over the top. 122 screws to be exact.
I got a good start on the rocker panels too.

I prebent them with a radius break and ran them through a repurposed set of dies to get the right curve.

Then I made plates to rattle in the quarter detail line with my Baker (pullmax) machine.

They fit nice!
It's my father-in-law's car and he's going through some serious health problems so I called for some help. I got a great crew helping me out now!

 

Good to have pals, car looks great

 

Nice job on that rocker panel!

 

Thanks for the videos. I really admire your skills and craftsmanship! Your wardrobe.... not so much!

 

A good friend of mine has a powder coat business and has been restoring a Kent model KMX850 bmx bike. The bike was found in the woods and was brought to him for repairs, with many of the obsolete parts being sourced from other style bikes and scooters. Here is where he has it thus far..





Once the sun had taken its toll on the seat upholstery, the foam inside became a nice sponge for all the precipitation that Mother Nature could throw at it, leaving much of the seat pan gone. So he needed a seat pan fabricated, and this is where I entered the picture..





His major concern was that we duplicate the impaling spikes to secure the upholstery.





I had attended an estate sale about a year ago and picked up a set of Malco notchers, not knowing what I'd ever need them for, but also knowing I couldn't do without them.











So when I pulled these out of the tool box all fears had been abated..


We started with a piece of 19 gauge AKDQ and used Stan Fulton beading dies to add the center bead.








A piece of 5/8 round stock on the magnetic brake then added the radius for the side bends. Some of the 5/8 round stock was also used to make some post dollies with a welded stop for use in the bench vise..





Basic shape





The Erco kick stretcher used on the sides and the post dollies on manipulating the radius bend helped to provide the kickup needed at the rear.





A solid rod across the rear mounting holes gives us some critical dimensions for layout....











For the mounting holes in the rear, we measured 9/16 from the edge to hole center as per original, and then made a two ended transfer punch that fit snugly between the sides. Once we had our rear measurement and the point aligned to the 9/16 scribe line, we tapped either side to mark the holes.








Once drilled, a rod through these holes lets us locate the front bracket. We reused the bracket to save some time (and money) as it was still good and solid..





Impaling spikes added








All bracket installed and assembly gets media blasted to prep for powder coat.

 

Very nice work with attention to detail. Frank

 

Very nicely done.

Little notchers came out of the toolbox like, "This is my time to shine!"

 

Awesome work!