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Projects 60's Era Street/Strip Model A Coupe

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by -Brent-, Aug 1, 2019.

  1. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Mikey doesn't fake anything, he takes winning races real seriously...that's my thoughts on that...
     
  2. wrenchbender
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,337

    wrenchbender
    Member

    I agree 100% and now back to the show lol
     
    mad mikey, Thor1, loudbang and 3 others like this.
  3. Jackson called it right. It is a Brian Kilduff shifter hooked to a full race Rossler trans. Now back to Brent and his amazing coupe.;)
     
    Just Gary, Stogy, Thor1 and 2 others like this.
  4. Brent, you are doing excellent with the door repair. Not the easiest thing to do , and not for me as well. Coming along very nice.:)
     
  5. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thank you, Mike.

    I spent a few hours this week watching and rewatching some shrinking disc videos. I'm about to have a metal-shrinking party. Feel free to swing by - I have plenty of ear plugs... and heat.

    It's noise like that that get the neighbors looking over fences and such. You'd think I've trained them by now. Hahaha.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2021
    Tim, brEad, Thor1 and 4 others like this.
  6. Ha ha. I wish I was close by Brent, You would not be able to get rid of me.:D
     
    Thor1, Stogy, 427 sleeper and 2 others like this.
  7. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 2,459

    6sally6
    Member

    Stogy and -Brent- like this.
  8. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Haha, no clocking screws for me! I like imperfect perfection and this car is FAR from perfect.
     
  9. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Chopped Model A Coupe Door Repair Part 4:

    As I chased around high and low spots AND oil canning I thought, "How many parts is this door repair going to be?"

    I set off to strip the door and test out the shrinking disc. That didn't happen. Let's call it "learning to walk before doing Olympic hurdles."

    First, here's the original door damage:

    Passenger Door Damage.jpg

    30 Ford Coupe Passenger Door Damage.jpg

    And here's where it was after the paintless dent removal guy helped me out. Seriously worth the $30 but it was still way out of shape.

    1930 Door After Paintless Dent Removal .jpg

    I sanded the work area and immediately the high and low spots showed. I figured I could work that with what I already knew and got to it.

    Damage to Be Worked Out.jpg

    I was flipping the door over every so often to work from either side and in doing so, I noticed this spot.

    Dent and High Spot in Door.jpg

    I used a couple different hammers, dollies, and a slapper for the first time... well more correctly for the first time. I can definitely get through this car with the basic HF hammer/dolly kit but I would have loved to try a better slapper with this door tonight.

    I got into a groove working stuff around and I have to say, the door is in far better shape. At this point, by running my hand flat over the door skin, I can tell that there's a little more that a knowledgeable/experienced/talented sheet-metal worker could fix - but I'm thrilled with the progress with such few tools. And, let me tell you, this door will end up with far less filler on it.

    Hanging the door back up helped me work out the oil-canning that I had left. In working that out, I found another area that needed TLC. The paintless dent guy hadn't gotten most of it out so I didn't even notice. It was slight.

    Another Dent Found .jpg

    It's weird seeing the bare metal and paint of the high-and-low spots and feeling that it's mostly smooth. Sanding the door would have helped to "see" the results all metal-finished but I just gave it a wipe-down and snapped a coupe pics wet - to show the reflection.

    After Hammer - Dolly - Heat.jpg

    Door MUCH Smoother.jpg

    Model A Coupe Door Dent Repair Progress .jpg

    Before the inner piece gets reinstalled, I may mess with it a little more. I want to push the car out into the daylight and open space to see if any issues show up.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2021
  10. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    My wife planned for us to do a High Intensity Interval Workout this morning. It was rough. Running on the treadmill as the pace got faster and the incline steeper, then hop off and do ten minutes of workouts jumping around and lifting weights and then repeat for 6 total times.

    Needless to say, I didn't want to come out and bang on the car even though it's a gorgeous day... but I have to get time in everyday if I want to drive this thing.

    I'm glad I did. Even though I'm sore from my toes to eyebrows (I am exaggerating, haha but I am dog tired) moving these dents around is really calming.

    ---

    I guess I don't really pay that much attention to the passenger side. When I hung up the door, I noticed a little spot of filler.

    More Garbage Body Filler.jpg

    This stuff is interesting. It's partially metallic but it stinks like plastic. Anyone know the product? Every area I removed had surface rust under it.

    Filler on 30 A Cowl.jpg

    Metalish Body Filler.jpg

    Last night I removed it to see what was underneath. A boomerang shaped scar/ding that was 1/8"-3/16" deep, maybe, at the deepest.

    Filler Removed - To Be Metalfinished.jpg

    Today, I rolled the car out to check the door and put a little more time on it. More Door Work and Cowl Prep.jpg

    With the door off, I used the sander to show what's up from the inside.

    High Spots Marked.jpg

    After I got it in better shape. I cleaned up the "scar" and surface rust .

    Cleaned Surface Rust .jpg

    After a little bit of back and forth, it's looking pretty good.

    Dent Removed Surface Rust Gone.jpg

    Before/After:

    Cowl Damage Before After .jpg

    Now it's time for another workout and push this thing back into the shop!
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2021
  11. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,276

    loudbang
    Member

    Could be all-metal it's been around at least in the late 60's and ends up a silver color. :) We used it on small Finicky jobs.

    "All-Metal Specialty Body Filler. All-Metal is the "Original" aluminum-filled automotive compound. Easy to spread and use."
    1.jpg
     
  12. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    @loudbang I've heard of it but never had any experience.

    It's interesting to have seen beneath the paint and filler and such. It's something I hadn't ever given much thought to. The surface rust under the paint on the hood (same as the car but I didn't see it since the blasters did the body) and now working on the little details, I notice what's "going on" and it makes me more interested in preserving the metal as well as finish.
     
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  13. bowie
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,098

    bowie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I’ve been following your great coupe build from the start. Keep up the good work! Not sure if you know , but that funky cool diamond shifter handle is originally from a Carevelle (spelling?)brand ‘60’s three speed shifter. It’s been quite a while since I’d seen one of them.
     
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  14. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    I had no clue where or what the shifter stick was from, thanks!
     
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  15. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 9,288

    jnaki

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...p-model-a-coupe.1159568/page-26#post-14137755

    Hello,

    From the time I wrote the last post on your build and accessory strapped foot pedal, I can see why you want to keep the strap. It does look cool and we also had one on our Moon Pedal for the 40 Willys coupe. But from our street driving experience it was a hazard to have to remove the right foot to use the brake. That strap just got in the way and/or it took too long to react to stepping on the brake pedal.

    In our normal daily driving, covering the brake is necessary to keep the defensive driving going. Stop light runners are very dangerous and lightning reactions on the brake pedal is necessary. So, the strap, as cool as it looked was removed.


    But, recently reading an very old Drag News paper, it was noted that the 1320 group that had most of the rules changes published as they became evident made an announcement: All racers had to have a strap over the gas pedal to make sure the pedal was moved back to the shut off position and slowed the motor down. Of course, shutting off with the ignition was part of the standard procedure. This made sense at the time for the gas pedals that were connected directly to the linkage.

    It was in 1956-57 and at the time, no one was defensive in their daily driving. The race cars were going through their organizations for distinct rules that everyone could understand for safety reasons. No one wanted a stuck throttle, if you could control it with a foot strap on the pedal. So, the announcement was made.

    By the time of the 1960-62 era, the ruling faded and most took off their straps on the cars that were still competing that were also used for street driving. Street Roadsters, Gas Coupes/Sedans and Modified Sports Cars that were still used for daily driving. We did continue to see them on full race cars as most of them had brake levers/and chutes.

    Jnaki

    So, the fact was evident for the straight line drag racers and their race cars. But not so for daily drivers and those that were two way hot rods, for the dragstrip competition plus cruising. In a few years, the combination of dual purpose stock cars/street driven cars, was a dream we all had fade away. So, moot point. For a while, they were part of a safety ruling.


    Yours still looks nice, but this was a fact finding story from the early days of dual purpose cars versus strictly straight line race cars. We all would hate to see your hot rod Model A not able to stop fast, when necessary, due to the strap holding in your shoes. YRMV
    upload_2021-11-18_3-51-0.png
     
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  16. Von Hartmann
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 988

    Von Hartmann
    Member

    I never knew the strap was mandatory, but I can see why. I added one to my Henry J as well as direct mechanical linkage years ago after the throttle cable failed and stuck my throttle open a couple times. I street drive my car with a clutched trans and was concerned about it interfering with my ability to stab the brakes, but found it wasn’t an inconvenience at all. I think Brent has the right idea by adding it near the top of the pedal. He probably won’t even notice it’s there, but will be damn glad it is if the throttle ever hangs open.
     
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  17. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,344

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Having dual return springs on the throttle linkage is a good thing, too.
     
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  18. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Ryan and I are on the same page on a lot of this stuff... one big thing in particular I learned when we went for a cruise around Rockford in his Henry J... It's rowdy, has slicks, small block, no creature comforts, etc... and he likes to thrash on it. But... rowdy doesn't mean unsafe or poorly built. The A will be similar. There's a measure of thought for everything that's been done on the car... that will continue throughout.

    I'm going to keep the toe loop. I get Jnaki's point but, respectfully, I'm responsible enough to handle it. Plus, like Ryan noticed, it's been moved up so that it's at the toes. Boots wouldn't fit but a normal shoe has no problem moving from pedal to pedal.

    For sure. The carbs are getting a well built solid linkage set-up and return springs.

    As for updates, things have been slow. As I say, life is always life-ing. Updates should be coming along shortly.
     
  19. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Rechopped and Retopped - Model A Coupe Passenger Door:

    Happy new year! I hope everyone is well and hot rodding. I'm thrilled to finally have some updates to share.

    Around Thanksgiving I dropped a few things off to Brian, my pal who narrowed the rear and has helped me out with odd-ball projects. Holidays, life, and such, kept us from getting the to-do list done sooner.

    The most major part I dropped off for Brian was the passenger door that needed to door top swapped. I'm so grateful to have found that donor door. That really saved things. Plus, it allowed me to replace the hacked-up inner panel.

    After some measurements and marks - off with the old.

    Door Top Removed.jpg

    Then, same with the donor.

    Parts Door Sacrificed.jpg

    Clamped, tacked, and a little fitting.

    Door Top Clamped.jpg

    The plan was to cut at the previously chopped section so that there'd be on chop mark.

    Cut Just Below Old Chopped Line.jpg

    It was a little thin there from the previous grinding of the weld.

    Chopped upright section.jpg

    The corner came together really well.

    Door Top Corner.jpg

    A little filler and it'll be perfect.

    Door Corner.jpg

    It looks cleaner than the original chop. A testament to Brian's attention to detail.

    Doortop Upright and hole filled.jpg Welds Cleaned up on latch side.jpg

    The cinch nuts were replaced. First he trimmed the peen-over part and then he used a magnet to hold them in place and tacked them in.

    3 Cinch Nuts Installed.jpg

    The three holes were filled in.

    Hole Filled Repaird.jpg

    The spot welded sheet metal that was left over was removed and the door was brought back to flat on both sides.

    Other Side Cleaned up and Flattened.jpg

    Door Cleaned up and Flattened.jpg

    And finally, it's back together and solid.

    Rechopped  and Retopped Model A Coupe Passenger Door.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2022
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  20. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    The neat old diamond shifter stick was just a bit "off" down at the bottom where it transitioned.

    If you look at the bottom, you can see it. It was noticeable mounted in the car.

    Diamond Shifter Stick.jpeg

    Here it is with some time/attention put back into it. Now it looks like it could have come this way. Really happy with it, now.

    Diamond Shiter Stick Redone.jpg

    There are a few more things coming up... like the decklid and the end of that debacle and some final door work before they can be assembled.
     
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  21. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    :rolleyes:...Gonna be a Helluva Year...Comin Up!!!...Awesome nitty gritties Brent....
     
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  22. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 6,396

    catdad49
    Member

    Great start to the New Year, Bravo!
     
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  23. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,086

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Good stuff
     
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  24. Looks great, and the shifter is a home run win.:)
     
  25. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Inner Door Panels Fixed and Finished:

    Slowly, but surely, the crudeness is being knocked out of this car. I completely understand how some guys chase details forever.

    Here are the inner door panels. Thankfully, I ended up with some decent ones because of donor doors but there was still a little clean up, straightening and repair. The sides of each panel crack me up because they're like an OEM panel. Fancy restorer stuff... haha.

    Inner Door Panel Restored .jpg Inner Door Panel Restored 2.jpg

    Hung the door, too.

    Model A Coupe Passenger Door Rechopped and Back on Body.jpg

    Before I get back to working on dents, I have to clean the shop - again. It's never ending... haha.
     
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  26. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thanks gents! Appreciate it.
     
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  27. Redrodguy
    Joined: Nov 18, 2016
    Posts: 115

    Redrodguy
    Member

    I've been following your build for some time now - very nice job!
    Can you (or other Hamber's) answer a question? What is the purpose of the recess and holes shown on this marked up copy of your panel? Perhaps used for a roadster?
    InkedInner Door Panel Restored _LI.jpg
     
  28. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Last edited: Jan 7, 2022
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  29. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    I asked around (FordBarn and Facebook groups) and all the answers lead to... nobody really knows - just assumptions. From locating holes for manufacturing/pressing to them being there for a different type of regulator (like the 32 rear windows regulator) that wasn't used in the 2 years of these body style coupe.
     
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  30. Redrodguy
    Joined: Nov 18, 2016
    Posts: 115

    Redrodguy
    Member

    Brent - Thanks for trying. Always been a mystery since I brought home my '31. Sorry for the hijack, but you had the perfect picture of the door panel.
    - Don
     
    loudbang, Stogy, Thor1 and 1 other person like this.

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