Projects Bringing an F100 Back from the Dead

Not much picture worthy for this post. I've been working toward wiring and plumbing completion.
Then I run into a hitch....
My wiring kit came with a standard GM light switch. Somewhere around eight blade connections on top and a triangle rod that's supposed to slide in and snap into position. Sounds easy!
Well, it slides in dang near all the way in and seems to bottom out, and just won't snap in. I haven't tried installing the rode before, just in case I needed to take the switch back out.
After watching video on how it's suppose to go together, it ain't doing that. I think it's FUBAR.

 

Try pushing the release button for the knob assembly on the switch when pushing in before you decide it's bad. Sometimes these need a bit of 'fiddlin' to get the knob shaft properly engaged. Once it's in and latched, verify it will come back out by pushing the button again.

 

Thanks Steve. I fiddled with the dang thing for quite a while. Pushing the button several times, twisting the knob, pushing hard on the knob and the button. The button was leaving a dent on my thumb. I think I'm done with it. They may be fiddly, but they can't be that fiddly.

 

Man, I have inner fender envy. Looking good.

 

Just remember you said it was a shivrola part. Quality is not their "Job 1."

 

Well, more accurately, I said GM. Coulda been a Cadillac switch!
But you're right, most likely your garden variety "Shiverlay" switch. After a few helpful pointers, I got 'er done. I never imagined that the switch body was not aligned with the switch bezel. And interestingly, it did not differ too much from the switch that was in it originally.
Today is the first day of my "Semi-Retirement." I only go into the office 5 to 7 days a month now, all in a single block of time. I'm a print production artist at a magazine publisher. So when the rest of the crew gets their pre-production stuff (advertising sales, editorial) done, I go in like the Pro's from Dover and produce the publications. Then I breeze back on out until the next production cycle.
So today, I knocked out bunch of little stuff.
When I installed the Mustang fuel tank in the back, I noticed there were two bed bolts that were no longer accessible. I welded a 7/16 nut onto a chunk of flat stock and then drilled a couple holes on either side of the bed bolt hole, and welded 'em on under the frame rail with a rosette weld. I'll have to the same with the bumper bracket holes.
Then I corrected the pinion angle. It was 5° up from the tranny tailshaft angle. A 5° wedge fixed that up.
Then made ground cables for the body to frame, and engine to frame. I made a tab that bolts to the motor to attach the ground cable to. The "convenient" bolt hole was 7/16". so basically a way to step it down to 3/8" so cable terminals could easily attach.
I found some heater hose outlet caps instead of looping a hose until I get the Vintage Air unit I plan on using.
And finally, made up the stubs to start building the exhaust. I ordered one of those "U-Build It" kits that has a bunch of 180s, 90s and 45° bends along with straight sections, plus two Thrush turbo mufflers.
It's getting close to "Fire 'Er Up" time!

 

It's always the small things that keep one from finishing a task. In finalizing the fuel lines, all I had to do was cut and flare the ends of the tubes going to the throttle body, and make four hoses. As it turns out, I had Aeroquip hose and most of the hose ends I needed. I had bought two Fragola fittings that are supposed to work with PTFE braided hose.....apparently, just not aeroquip's hose. But, just two hoses left to put on one fitting each, and the fuel system will be done!
I did finish all my ground cables. Body to chassis to engine block. So, I connected the ground cable to the battery. No big sparks, no smoking wires....which is usually a good sign! And, she has some brain waves! Dash lights work, gauges cycled, ignition wire to the coil is hot, headlight wires are hot.....won't be long now.
Exhaust system up next.

 

By "HOT" I am presuming that you mean they have electric in them and not physically hot to the touch.

 

Yes.

 

Just making sure you were still awake.

 

Fuel system plumbing is DONE!
Finally got around to picking up a starter, and made the last of the heavy battery cables, which was from the solenoid to the starter. Connected the battery again and checked that circuit. And I'll be danged, it works!
So now with the starter in, I can start getting the exhaust routed.

 

Seems that things are progressing quickly now that I have a bit of time on my hands! This retirement thing....Still not over the guilt feeling of not going to work every day.
Anyway, got tires mounted and on the truck. Staggered sizes. 255/65X17 out back, 225/65X17 up front. Should have a nice rake!
Exhaust head pipes are tacked together and pointing rearward. I ran out of argon, so I stopped for the day at noon yesterday and went to play golf with my neighbor. A couple of duffed greenside pitches cost me the Championship of the Entire Street!
But, with the truck sittin' on all four, I had to wheel it out and admire my work....as well as clean up under where the truck has been sitting.
That shift knob is just a cheap knick-nack I picked up in New Orleans a couple years ago at a street fair. The comments of friends neighbors and relatives have all been, "Do the eyes light up like in Armageddon?"

 

Mike, where did you source the 17 inch rims and how wide are they?

Ted

 

Holy crap! You are moving right along! Looks fantastic!

 

Re: Skull knob
Get a couple of LEDs in there that light up - maybe off the reverse back-up light circuit.
I know you can do it.

 

Maybe later. Might be kinda funny to do that with the turn signals!

Those are Wheel Vintiques, Gennie Series. They take an early 40s Ford center cap. The fronts are 7" with 4.63" backspace, and the rears are 8" wide at 4" backspace

Thanks! This build is much like yours. I read that you were having trouble with a later model vehicle, and wanted something simpler for a daily driver. Last summer, I had an electronics glitch in my 2012 RAM, 1100 miles from home. It only did it the one time, but it was a look into the future. As I get older, with fewer places to go, I'm looking to downsize and simplify. When the F100 is up and running with the bugs worked out, the Ram will go on to another owner.
The similarities don't end there. Once I get into the paint work, I was looking at doing some light scallops similar to yours....."exactly the same only different!"

 

Nice work! I usually don't comment on designs of someone's build but shouldn't your fuel flex lines be between the firewall and engine?

 

They are. The hardlines below are anchored to the body. The hardlines you see seemingly on the firewall, are (or will be when I finish the brackets) anchored to the engine in two places.

 

I see that now. Carry on!

 

I really like it! Need to check it out in person some time. Very nicely thought out so far.

 

Thanks! Although we are both in Central California, (I'm in Clovis) it's still a pretty big place. The San Joaquin Valley itself is bigger than many states!
Productive day! Finished the exhaust system to the back of the mufflers. Just need to figure out the hangers. I painted the entire thing with VHT high heat aluminum to keep rust away.
Also finished up a lot of little mundane tasks, such making the fuel pump electrical connections, clamping radiator hoses, making an alternator adjustment arm. The one that was on it just disappeared somewheres. So I just bought a generic one and made it fit.
I hung a front fender because I was anxious to see how the front ended up with the dropped beams. The top of the fender arch dips below the top of the tire by about 1/2 inch. Once the rest of the bodywork is back on, it'll likely drop around another 1/2"
Then I smeared the face of the lifters with ARP molybdenum break in grease, popped in the holes and buttoned the side cover on, permanent like!
The next big hurdle is spinning the motor over without plugs or rockers to build oil pressure without wiping all the lube off the cam and lifters. I always wait to put the valvetrain on until after I do the spin thing. I want to give the cam it's best chance of breaking in correctly.
Anyway, spun it over with the starter for about 15-20 seconds, and it showed 40psi. Done!
Now, with the timing pre-set, and as long as the fuel pump turns on like it should, it should fire right off.
I'll still do a little voodoo dance beforehand!

 

Great progress Mike. Been following closely along since you started in. Not a Clovite, but a Fresnonian. I'm with the Ideaman.
Your selected Wheel Vintiques (a Fresno company) wheels look perfect.
Appreciate your clean deliberate build with clear goals for a very practical vintage daily. A friend was a pro wrench and had a lengthy commute to the CHP station in Chowchilla and his SBC ElCo was killing him on gas. He came up with a plan for a fuel sipping 283 but unlike git er done Mike, he never pulled the trigger.
I also had an electronic era car "moment". The car did all kinds of crazy odd things that mostly were cleared with a restart. Looking into that abyss from the side of a narrow mountain pass is not my idea of awesome.
Thanks for the clean work and a great build thread.
Very enjoyable.

 

You still dancing Mike?

 

Thanks 34-5W Paul! My "Git 'er Done" thing has always been a bit of an issue, whether it's a project car, or a home project. I can't seem to just walk away for a bit. A bit OCD maybe. The last major car project took about a year from dragging it out of a Fresno Tower District backyard, until it made it's first runs down the track. It was much like this in that it was down to every last nut and bolt. It stayed a project for 20 years.
The Ideaman....Is that the Luke I know from the VW world?

 

You probably know this but I thought I would mention it. Where your upper coolant sensor is in the tee, it may create a bubble and fail to read properly. If you bleed it some how, you may have one less item to deal with. I used a sniper on my latest project. I only have 150 miles on it so far but by following directions, it fired up 1st try. People look for shortcuts that cause problems.

 

Thanks WFO.
That is the only port. I know it could be a potential problem. If it does cause trouble, I reckon I'll have to figure something out.

 

So Gasgacinch. You all know it. The gasket dressing that's been around as long as any of us can remember.
It's all in the name. If you use it, it's a cinch that it's gonna leak.
That is all.

 

Yes, it’s me. Have any fat guy (XL) “White Knuckle Ride” tshirts? My old ones are reaching shop rag status.

 

Well I'll be danged!
I'll have to check on the t-shirts. I may have a few stashed

 

Luke, I have some Hot VWs Drag Day shirts with the blue Ghia on 'em, and some DRKC shirts from 2002. All in XL. But no more "White Knuckle Ride" shirts at all.