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Projects 59 Apache - Lifelong obsession

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 59chev, Apr 23, 2014.

  1. I finally got the 305 dropped in. I think I will have to switch over to a short water pump setup to clear my radiator. I have a clutch fan that I want to run that won't clear with the long water pump. Luckily I have a brand new short water pump that I bought for my 327. I painted the water pump, pulleys and brackets while I was waiting for my flexplate to arrive.

    1270.JPG
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2021
  2. Happy New Year!!

    I hung the fenders and hooked up the wiring for the headlights and park lights/signals. I also moved the radiator up 1" to give me more clearance from the lower radiator outlet to the sway bar.

    Just need a lower radiator hose and some v belts and it will be ready to fire up for the first time. 1280.JPG
     
  3. 4 pedals
    Joined: Oct 8, 2009
    Posts: 958

    4 pedals
    Member
    from Nor Cal

    I saw this when you first posted it and lost it until today. You've made good progress! Makes me miss the 55 and 57 I've had in the past.

    Devin
     
    hotrodharry2, loudbang and 59chev like this.
  4. Thanks!!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  5. Got the gauges installed. If you remember from earlier in the thread, I swapped out the temp gauge and oil pressure gauges and converted the amp gauge to a volt gauge by using the guts from 2" gauges in the stock cluster. This is the first time I got to see it all lit up. I'm stoked by how it turned out. The green backlight from the reproduction Sunpro tach gives off a cool eerie glow across the dash.
    1290.JPG
     
  6. Man, that looks good
     
    loudbang and 59chev like this.
  7. Thanks swade41!
     
    loudbang likes this.

  8. So does your avatar!
     
    swade41 and impala4speed like this.
  9. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,989

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Hey 59Chev,
    Nice work on the gauge panel. I'm working on the gauge panel for my 55 2nd series and am debating what to do for the amp/volt meter. I want to use a volt meter but it says "Amp" on the panel below the gauge. Are you gonna use leave it say amp even though there is a volt meter there? I guess I assume so since its already installed. lol.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  10. Thanks NashRodMan! I figure as long as I know that I want the needle close to 14 while charging and 12 with the key on but engine off that is all that matters. I like the look of the Amp Text because I was going for a set of gauges that look like they could have been stock at first until you look closer.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2022
    loudbang likes this.
  11. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,989

    NashRodMan
    Member

    I have a picture request if you don't mind...I was just reading through this thread- again- and read that you are using the stock ebrank handle in the cab. Would you please post a pict of it here for me? Maybe 1 or 2 from the side. It appears I don't have one and have no idea where Chevy located it or what it looks like. I'd really appreciate it. Thanks
     
    loudbang likes this.
  12. Here you go NashRodMan,

    The stock e-brake handle is bolted on a bracket under the steering column. It has a ratchet mechanism and a release button on the inside of the handle. In a stock application the rod extends all the way down through the toeboard to a pivot on the framerail. I didn't have the pivot anymore due to the camaro clip so I cut the rod short and welded on a piece of angle to pull on the aftermarket cable that is now bolted through the floorboard.

    upload_2022-1-4_21-40-25.jpeg
     
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  13. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,989

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Thanks a bunch 59chev!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  14. 57tailgater
    Joined: Nov 22, 2008
    Posts: 845

    57tailgater
    Member
    from Georgia

    That's a great idea on the e-brake cable. Even tho I am keeping the original front frame, I don't like the original e-brake set up - pivot/thin cable/pulley/lever/cables etc. Was wanting to go to more of a direct cable connection like you did. How did you split it out to the rear brakes? Any clearance issues when it comes out of the cab? Nice work on this, gas pedal and gauges along with the other schtuff! Go Man go!
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2022
    loudbang and 59chev like this.
  15. 57tailgater,

    In the first pic you will see the single cable coming out in the engine compartment between the steering column and the wiring pigtail for the dimmer switch. I boxed the majority of my frame so I mounted the splitter on the boxing plate under the cab by drilling and tapping some holes. All the parts came from a company called Control Cables. They make each set to order with some measurements that you fill out on the form they provide.

    1310.JPG

    1320.JPG
     
  16. 57tailgater
    Joined: Nov 22, 2008
    Posts: 845

    57tailgater
    Member
    from Georgia

    Thanks for the pics. That's looks really nice and clean. Where did you get your parts? Keep up the great work!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  17. The company name is Control Cables Inc. They made the cables to measurements that I provided. Very impressed with their products and customer service.
    https://www.controlcables.com/
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2022
    loudbang and rockable like this.
  18. 57tailgater
    Joined: Nov 22, 2008
    Posts: 845

    57tailgater
    Member
    from Georgia

    Thanks for tip!
     
  19. I'm trying to figure out my lower radiator hose, but I'm running into a couple of issues:
    - the alternator belt is touching the rad hose.
    - I haven't found a molded hose that fits. I have tried Gates 21064 as well as one that just has a 90 bend and neither seem to to fit without kinking

    For reference this is what I am running:
    - Two piece rear main 305 sbc
    - Aftermarket Short water pump, PWR I think
    - Matched set of original short pulleys that I removed from a 283 from an 1965 Impala
    - Alan Grove Alternator bracket
    - Stock radiator re-cored with original tanks
    - Radiator is raised 1" from stock to give more clearance from lower outlet to sway bar

    The belt alignment seems really good, so I am hesitant to space the alternator out to clear the rad hose. Any one else run into something similar? How did you solve it? Thanks! Belt problem.JPG
     
    loudbang likes this.
  20. Mount it on the drivers side. Use 1972 C-10 alt bracket. Try the Truck Shop in Orange County Ca.

    Edit:
    Just saw a pic of your motor. You have power steering mounted on drivers side.
    I believe Grove also makes a bracket for the pass side that mounts alt on top of motor. With a short water pump.

    204R.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2022
  21. Thanks for the suggestion bjinx but I think the Alternator would interfere with the Heater hose outlet and the fuel line in that location. I would like to keep this bracket if at all possible. I added a couple of washers and now it just barely clears. I am wondering if I have to use a short section of exhaust tubing or those cut to fit stainless hoses since the OD would be thinner than the rubber hose and more rub resistant if the belt deflects?
     
    loudbang likes this.
  22. This is what I have on my O/T '70 C-10. If you want to change to drivers side. It bolts to the head.
    LMC Truck parts sells them for the driver side. I also have a steering pump.
    Alt Brkt.jpg
     
    loudbang and 59chev like this.
  23. Thanks bjinx!

    I’ll keep that in mind as a possibility if I can’t figure out a hose option that clears. I eventually want to swap in my 327 once I can afford to have it rebuilt and it doesn’t have the holes in the heads. Trying to find a solution that I can swap to another small block later on without relying on the holes in the heads.

    I appreciate the solutions you offered however, That LMC bracket definitely solves the problem if I decide to swap to the the alternator over to the drivers side with my current engine.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2022
    loudbang likes this.
  24. You might have to use 2 different hoses spliced with a piece of exhaust tubing,I've done this in the past. I'm also facing the same problem now with a big block, the difference being that the water pump is bigger than the radiator.
    I've used those flexible universal rubber hoses before, they do harden in place after a few heat cycles, you can see in the photo how you can manipulate them.

    100_2555.jpg
     
    loudbang and 59chev like this.
  25. Thanks swade41. I’m hoping that one of the universal flex hoses work.
     
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  26. A 57 car lower has a few curves in it
     
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  27. Been making good progress. I put the box back on and built some simple risers for the cross sills out of 4" rectangular tubing. At the back of the box I bought a new rear cross sill and chopped up my original one to fill the gap for the raised bed floor.
    1330.jpg

    I got the radiator hose issue figured out and was able to fire up the engine for the first time. It felt like a huge accomplishment to idle it out of the garage with no hood and open headers. I then washed off 8 years of dust. It will get painted at some point but for now I want to enjoy driving it this summer.
    1340.jpg

    Next up is taking it in for exhaust and alignment.
     
  28. What about pushing the hose on the radiator back (pushing the hose bottom towards the fuel pump). If not then I used a piece of 205 stainless steel pipe on my old Ford panel to clear the belt.

    **EDIT ** Ok, I just read you fixed it......

    hose-1.jpg
    hose-2.jpg
     
    59chev likes this.
  29. Thanks 1oldtimer. I ended up using one of those universal lower flex hoses similar to what swade41 posted and it managed to clear the belt.
     
  30. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,989

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Glad to see an update on this truck! Its looking great!!!
     
    59chev likes this.

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