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Technical 54 Desoto No Start

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jguillen, Jan 1, 2022.

  1. Jguillen
    Joined: Apr 16, 2015
    Posts: 11

    Jguillen

    So I recently picked up a 54' Desoto Firedome, it runs and drives fine but is hard to start. Last week it wouldn't start at all. I put in a new battery and cables 2 weeks ago. When I turn the key the only sound I hear is a single click from the starter relay. I pulled the starter, cleaned up the contacts and inspected the plunger in the solenoid. The starter bench tested fine. I put it back in and still it wouldn't start. I thought maybe the engine seized up on me. I turned the engine by hand no problem. Tried to start the car and it fired right up better than before. I was able to start It several times without issue. Went to go for a drive this morning and it won't start again. It tried to start once then stopped. All I hear is the click on the starter relay again. I'm stumped. Is this a bad starter or something else?
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2022
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. usmc72
    Joined: Sep 16, 2010
    Posts: 37

    usmc72
    Member

    I don't have an answer for you but you should check out the facebook page for the National Desoto Club. They have model year tech guru's that might help you out.
     
  3. greybeard360
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 2,078

    greybeard360
    Member

    Double check your grounds.
     
  4. onetrickpony
    Joined: Sep 21, 2010
    Posts: 758

    onetrickpony
    Member
    from Texas

    You may have a dead spot on the starter armature. It only fails when it stops on the dead spot.
     

  5. foolthrottle
    Joined: Oct 14, 2005
    Posts: 1,404

    foolthrottle
    Member

    battery connections, cables, connections in general. Corrosion in cables, I thought positive ground was supposed to correct that
     
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  6. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,123

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    Poor ground is most likely
     
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  7. 03GMCSonoma
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 314

    03GMCSonoma
    Member

    I agree 100% with you.
     
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  8. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,218

    sunbeam
    Member

    The simplest way I know get one of those icepick test lights put the clip on the battery cable post on the starter and the pick end on the battery post and try to start if the tester lights up the problem is between the two points Start moving the pick end closer to the starter at each conection when the tester does not light the problem is between the two points. If the teste did not light r check the ground side the same way
     
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  9. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,884

    BJR
    Member

    Did you get 6 volt battery cables when you replaced them? They are much heavier wire than 12 volt cables.
     
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  10. Jguillen
    Joined: Apr 16, 2015
    Posts: 11

    Jguillen

    I went with 2/0 awg copper cables. Have a new cable cable coming to replace the one from relay to starter solenoid. I'll give the circuit tester a try tomorrow and check to make sure my grounds are good and clean.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  11. Old cars with unknown starters.. I take those out and have a shop rebuild them. Make sure they know whether you are using 6V or 12V.
     
  12. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,438

    jaracer
    Member

    Yes, this is a very basic voltage drop test. You don't need to take all connections apart for inspection if you electrically test them first.
     
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  13. Jguillen
    Joined: Apr 16, 2015
    Posts: 11

    Jguillen

    I picked up a circuit tester this morning and before I started the tests, I tried to start the car and it fired right up. Took it for a spin and when I got back, I was able to start it a few more times. Now it seems that the starter is working although sometimes it doesn't seem to always start but it does crank now. Everything checked out fine with the circuit tester. I've been slowly sourcing parts to rebuild the starter. My new battery cable for the starter should be here tomorrow, I'm hoping that might be the easy fix. If not I'm going to assume the starter is bad.
     
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  14. Hollywood-East
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,997

    Hollywood-East
    Member

    Tap the starter/ solenoid lightly with a hammer, an try next time it act's up... It Does sound like a dead spot on contact..
    Or jump solenoid also
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  15. CatRod
    Joined: Feb 9, 2014
    Posts: 1

    CatRod
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Like issue 1955 Dodge. Had starter in & out, waste of time bench testing. Can test in car easier. Use remote start switch or jump wire from --minus to S terminal. Hit it...cranks hit it...cranks keep doing it until NO CRANK=DEAD SPOT! That I'd bet a dollar to a dog turd and hold the steaks in my teeth on Colfax & Broadway downtown ISN'T the problem. I've found intermittent voltage drop in wiring. Bad key switch contacts can cause a starter turn or NO turn issue. (Tore mine apart to see) YOUR red 10g wire from battery side of solenoid thru firewall to amp gauge ends renew & solder. Then other side of amp gauge goes to key switch "amp" terminal. Mine was all burnt up! Even with it replaced still no starter turn with new wire & switch(nos). Remember if you hot test solenoid S terminal and starter runs, starter isn't an issue! I have too big a voltage (amps) drop with yellow/black lead from key to solenoid 'S' terminal. Soldering new ends or better to replace wire should solve this issue!
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2022
    HSF and chryslerfan55 like this.
  16. 03GMCSonoma
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 314

    03GMCSonoma
    Member

    If you could manually turn your armature a little bit, maybe you would get by the dead spot and it would crank. Not sure how you would do this but it seems this approach should prove the dead spot idea one way or another. My $.02. Good luck.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.

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