I have a 1930 CCPU with a dropped axle and posie front spring. Wilwood disc brakes. What I have come to realize is that a panhard bar is needed. My son had a new top put on and the seat upholstered. He lives in Vegas . I drove it home and at 70 mph it was a hand full. Is there anything special as it has 4 bar front suspension? Thanks for your time. Terry aka dirt t
Get yourself a " Pete & Jake's " catalog . read the first several pages and you'll learn about panhard bars & their function . Pete & Jake's will likey have the parts you'll need .
Shall we presume it has standard street rod stuff under it? What steering box? Are all the tie rod ends in good shape? Kingpins tight and greased? Pete and Jake and others have a kit that will bolt on the batwing, not sure if they have a bolt on frame bracket. Most the ones I have seen are weld on.
It sounds like more than just the need for a pan hard bar. I agree with redo32, a visit to an alignment shop should tell you a lot.
If it has a steering box that uses a drag link that goes under the engine to the passenger side spindle and it doesn’t have a Panhard bar, yes it definitely needs one. If the drag link runs front to back and connects to the left front spindle your problem probably lies with loose or worn front end components, alignment or bad tires.
You did not mention what you experience except a handful , Pan bar can aluminate death wobble. Toe & caster needs to be checked, Caster needs to be set @ ride height to/ on the ground, 5-7 degrees. Tires & wheel combo ? also does it have Fenders & a none hole Visor,, if so wants you get the suspension worked out A's Over 100 mph can start to move around , I have no experience with a truck but I would think before 100 mph. My 32 with Fenders None chop is stable up to 145-150, then little Rocky. With out fenders stable @ 150
My car has cross steering and doesn't have a panhard bar....I have no issues with it and it does okay at 120mph..... 1/8 inch toe end and 5 degree positive caster....Never checked the camber because I won't bend a cast axle....
Just to provide a bit of history, or perhaps save someone form losing a bar room bet, the Panhard (one word, nothing to do with pans or hardness) bar is named after Renee Panhard, of the Panhard Automobile Company. Today the only use of the name Panhard is in the Panhard rod (also called Panhard bar), a suspension link invented by Panhard that provides lateral location of the axle. This device has been widely used on other automobiles or as an aftermarket upgrade to rear axles for vintage American cars. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panhard
A lot of opinions on this subject. One opinion is that if you are running 4 bar front end with cross steer is that you must have a pan hard bar to eliminate side to side movement.
Early Ford transverse spring front ends can work with cross steering and no Panhard bar, I drove my ‘32 5w with a Vega box like that for a while. But visualize how the front spring and the axle are connected. Unloaded, it’s like a porch swing. It’s better when loaded but it’s still a place for unwanted side motion. A long Panhard bar stops that motion and in most cases gives the steering a more positive feel.
4" dropped axle, 2" lowered posie spring And 1 inch lowered crossmember. Rear is Qai coil over shocks. 8" Maverick rear end.
You need one I have a tub with similar components. I need one! Mine is made and ready to be installed. But I drive without it and am just aware of its quirky behavior on turns especially. Keep the bar as close to horizontal as possible at loaded weight.
My 32 roadster does not have one and have thought of adding one for better front end stability even though it does handle well. So for RH steering I think I read that you do the reverse of what is in the Pete & Jake diagram.
There is such a thing as a dead spring perch that goes in place of one spring perch that is supposed to act as a panhard bar. Never used one so can’t comment on its effectiveness.
Yes I believe you are correct. From what I have read the bracket that is welded to the chassis (front or rear) should be welded on the same side that your cross steering box is mounted to. I have seen a number of right hand drive vehicles set up with right hand cross steering - but they then welded the rear panhard mount on the opposite side. As I understand it this combination can set up some interesting handling at speed and cornering.
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