Projects Save The Gauges

Yeah, I don't like my gauges calling me names every time I look at it..........

 

Pressure dampening over a certain limit, so's to not damage the gauge movement when/if it exceeds some pre-determined point, I'd guess ~80 psi on that gauge.

Your last comment could apply also... .
Marcus...

 

This is the original dash insert and gauges for my 1932 Oldsmobile. They have bee cleaned only, not restored.

 

What a score, even have the original boxes...you are having a excellent Xmas

 

Most excellent Eelco score! Ironically, I just bought that vacuum & amps that Nick the Bandit listed here, which helped fill in the missing holes in my set that I've been collecting for quite a while. Yes, he is a bandit (haha), but you sure don't see these things come up for sale very often. I have a working oil temp, the supercharger gauge & an oil pressure. You didn't get an extra fuel pressure, did you? By the way, I've seen another version of the supercharger gauge, where the Eelco logo was above the two rivets. Yours is the first one I've seen like mine. Did you notice that the bezel on it is different than the others? I wonder if there's a water temp out there that survived?

 

How does the fuel pressure gauge work?
Mine is directly connected to the fuel line, which tends to be considered a no-no.

 

I should be the last one trying to explain how anything mechanical works, but essentially the fuel in a running car exerts pressure via a fuel line into a Bourdon Tube (inside the gauge), which in turn flexes & causes the needle to move via a small mechanical system of levers or gears. The oil pressure essentially works the same, as does the water & oil temp, only there the gas (like ether) in the line expands from the heat, creating the pressure to flex the Bourdon Tube. What I've never been able to figure out is whether the oil or gas actually goes into the Bourdon Tube or if its just air pressure (coming from the gas or oil) that goes into the Bourdon Tube. If it's the former, then I can see why you wouldn't want gasoline in a gauge in your dashboard....especially next to a cigarette lighter. Am I missing something?

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And a beauty it is! Remember that there are certain old folks on this site that might be in a certain time period where they might be starting to contemplate one last wish.

 

WOW!! @Moriarity you hit the mother load of eelco's!! Those are great and you have the original boxes, too! Damn, the eelco's are so difficult to find, you rarely...if ever..see them come up for sale! We know you will give them a great home.
And great job to Greg @fleetside66 on your recent eelco finds. Thank you Mark and Greg for sharing your collection with the rest of us.
Fleetside, I would argue that you're a stealthy collector Right when I think I have a handle on all your goodies you pull out all kinds of new stuff. I gotta say watching you guys makes me feel sssoooo much better about my gauge collecting problem, LOL!

Yes, @Beanscoot as Moriority stated your fuel pressure gauge is typically plumbed in-line in the fuel line and should be in your engine compartment. My fuel pressure gauge is plumbed in-line in the fuel line between the mechanical fuel pump and carb (sits up near the valve cover)

Looking at Fleetsides schematic I gotta tell ya, I've had the unpleasant task of lining up the pinion gear and sector link gear so a gauge will read correctly and that was not a fun project.

 

Autometer makes a isolater unit which you mount and hide anywhere but inside for safety...

 

I imagine there is always going to be some air trapped between the fluid and the gage unless there is a leak in the gage or fittings, this is where it would be a problem with a fuel pressure gage in the passenger compartment.

Phil

 

I'm tending to agree with you on that, Phil. I think it's the same as with an old boat speedometer, where I believe the water flowing into a (Pitot) tube creates air pressure, which acts on the Bourdon tube to move the needle. Moon used to make a really cool speedo very early on, but you couldn't use it on a car (obviously) because it worked on a different principle. Also, because of the nature of how they worked, I noticed that the lower speed graduations on the gauge face were spaced closer together than the ones at the mid & high range. And, obviously, there was no water intrusion into the gauge itself. That being said, I have noticed some of oil pressure gauges that have a film of oil under the lens. I guess, for the most part, the air trapped in the line will not let the liquid past it, probably because the pressure is relatively low. If the pressure was high, I'd think that the air would mix with the liquid at some point. It seems this is one of those things you really can't Google.

 

Initially there is air in the Bourdon tube, but over time it is replaced with the liquid. With my fuel gauge I can tell that happens as the gauge needle starts to jump around a lot since there's no more damping by an air pocket.

When this happens I just disconnect the gauge and blow the line clear, and the needle moves smoothly until the air is "consumed" again.

 

Very interesting the way the increments expand as the speed rises. I never could fathom why Dean Moon didn't commission a car speedometer when he brought out the smaller car gauges. U.S Gauge Co. made the small ones (pressure, temp, vacuum, etc.) & Jones-Motorola made the big tach, but no speedometer.

 

So, I finally got my vacuum gauge apart.


The dial is badly peeling. I bought a non working dash mount type gauge. My thought is to use the needle and gauge face on the unit shown above.

Any good info on how to remove both needles without destroying them?
Thanks.

 

I thought about just hanging this on my shop wall but after reading this thread I think it would great to restore these, at least 3 of the 4.

Larry

 

try spraying or immersing the needle in wd40 or similar leaving it to soak for a week or more you may only get 1 attempt at removing it.alternatly stick it in a bag and put it in the fridge overnight followed by gently heating?,maybe over a heater then back in the fridge again overnight till it comes away..i think id get somebody qualified to create a new adhesive face it would look great.b a small price to pay

 

Watch makers use two one on each side 180 degrees apart. Put a plastic baggy over the needles to keep from marring them or flying away. The tools slip under the needle in a crease in the baggy then just pry them up.

Or fashion your own something similar.

 

I've seen spoons being used for the same purpose. I'd be inclined to slip a bit of paper under the bowl of each spoon, where it might otherwise damage the gauge face.

 

to prevent damaging the face and preventing the face from getting bent id try a piece of light stainless with a slot cut in it for the needle shaft and soak with wd40 and use those little pry tools.that gauge face is sweet patina and all.use it.

 

id use something stiffer than a piece of paper ned how about an aluminum disc larger than the face with a slot cut to the centre to clear the shaft and something soft stuck to it, to stop u marking or distorting the face.if u took pictures the face with the needle off im sure you could get a new adhesive face made that would duplicate the patina.anyone can have a new gauge /face but that old one is class.good luck .duplicate ish post

 

I don't have too much to offer, but some current finds.
A Tulip S/W oil pressure (CLEAN paint) for $1 at the LB Model T swap this year:


Also a S/W tach kit with sender from the same swap before Covid.

 

They use these things to remove and reposition dial pointers in the instrument shop where I work:



You can get cheapies on those internet sites that probably would be fine for occasional use.

 

In to the shop this week for repair is probably the biggest passenger car speedometer out there, the 1939 Lincoln Zephyr. I have been wanting to rebuild one of these for a long time.
The 1935 Dodge Floating Power speedometer is big at 6” but the Zephyr speedometer makes it look small.

 

I’ve got one of those in my 39’ Zephyr that needs attention. I’m curious as to how many parts are generally salvageable and overall cost of a rebuild.