I have a 36 rearend that has 46-48 hydraulic brakes on it already. The axles and housings look good. I also have a 46 p/u rear that I was going to part out to convert the 36 rear to open drive. Can I just put the 46 ring and pinion and front plate into the 36 rear? Should I use the 36 center "banjo", or the 46 or does it matter? Thanks, Neal...inCA
Neal, I believe the difference between the '37-earlier and '38-later are the number of teeth on the spider gears in the diff/axle ends. To keep the early axles and housings together, you may be able to bolt the later ring gear to the diff and then use the later banjo/snout. Maybe not. Wheres Bruce???
[ QUOTE ] Neal, I believe the difference between the '37-earlier and '38-later are the number of teeth on the spider gears in the diff/axle ends. To keep the early axles and housings together, you may be able to bolt the later ring gear to the diff and then use the later banjo/snout. Maybe not. Wheres Bruce??? [/ QUOTE ] Thanks. I was wondering if there was some difference like that. Anybody know if I can just swap in the ring, pinion, and snout? Bruce, you out there? Thanks, Neal...inCA BTW, Roothawg - This has to work, the grill shell just had to hang on the wall
Just a heads up guys.... Getting that pinion out of the snout looks like it would be a cumbersome bitch. Gotta be pressed out. Why not use the '36 axle housings with later ('39-'41) axles and the '46 center section? Wouldn't that work? Now, having said that, let me say this... I haven't really studied this thread. Just skimmed over it and started spouting off. JH
Banjo castings are the same, so just swap the whole center section. No need to press out the pinion and otherwise mess around unless the rear need rebuilding. Spiders are different, but I think both solutions have been presented--early spiders into the '42 center, or later (up to 41) axles. I'm pretty sure dif housing (the internal one where the spiders live, as distinguished from the outer one which is also probably spider infested) is the same. If leaving everything assembled with original bearings, I doubt you will have any setup probles, as early Ford rears were made for good net fit with minimal fuss. I would however keep bearing units together when using used ones (in this case that would mean using the side bearing races from the '42 in the '36 housings) and do a quick check of mesh and sideplay to be sure no problems. I can get you the info on that and can of course look up any interchange problems. Be sure you have a good R&P in a ratio you like--pickup gears are nearly extinct.
I've loaned by Green Bible out (don't do like I did. I don't think it's coming back) and need some driveline interchange info. Will the pinon shaft, the ring gear, and possibly the differential from a 1948 Ford F2 truck interchange with a '46 Open drive 1/2 ton truck banjo? I know the external pieces like the yoke, the bearing retainer plate and the pinon seal retainer will interchange. The part of the '48 pinon shaft that's exposed has the same dimensions as the '46, but I'll have to open up the 3/4 ton and the 1/2 ton rear axle to find out and I'd like to avoid that work if it's a bust. If it DOES interchange, I'll swap the ring and pinion onto a '36 differental, or swap out the entire differential to achive an all Ford open drive banjo.
[ QUOTE ] Spiders are different, but I think both solutions have been presented--early spiders into the '42 center, or later (up to 41) axles. [/ QUOTE ] I am leaning towards using the early axles and spiders in the 42 center, because I have those parts. Any advantage to going to the later axles and spiders? If I went with later axles and spiders, I would assume then, that 35-36 and 37-41 axles are the same width? Thanks, Neal...inCA
I'm not aware of any issues that would make either early or late spiders preferable. Presumably Ford had a reason to retool, but several million of each type were made and bad ones of any age are rare. The changeover of spider types came at a time when Ford was working hard to kill off mechanical noises in its cars, so perhaps the new pattern was just quieter. Just lay out your parts collection on the garage floor, chase away any spiders that have legs, and find the combo that works with what you have.
For a good rundown on what spiders were in what years, what axles are what length, and other gear related minute that isn't immediately apparent from the Ford Chassis manual, take a look at the "Gears" paper from Rumbleseat's tech pages.
If you press out the pinion the Ford book I have tells you to heat the housing by the bearing races. Also when you install it. ( it worked for me ) also if you you thake the bearings off you need to set the preload, I don't have the book with me now but it was in in. lb.
Im sure this has been covered but I haven bee able to find a refernce. What ways are there to convert a banjo close driveshaft to an open driveshaft? Ive seen the kits Winters and Speedway sell but they are not within my means $. Thanks kenny
Axles break down like this: 28-31, 24 teeth, 32.09" Overall Length 32-34, 18 teeth, 32.18" OL 35-38, 18 teeth, 32.85" OL 39-41, 16 teeth, 32.85" OL 42-48 Pass, 42-47 Pickup, 16 teeth, 33.70" OL
I have done this swap, used the center housing and ring gear from a '48 truck and bells axles and spiders from a '36 car the inner bearings are different, heavier in the truck and the axle lengths are too. when it got to be time for a new gear set, I found them impossible to locate and put it all back to the '36 car configuration and used the Speedway kit to open it up. had to shorten the driveshaft a bit as the Speedway setup is longer than the truck and had to use a conversion U joint
This is a relatively straight forward swap. The only thing I was not sure off and did not take time to check was the clocking of the axle housings to center banjo sections. I think they are the same index but don't have a 42-7 banjo to check. To do this all you are doing is swapping parts. Break down the 35/36 rear end and remove the banjo section. Remove the differential carrier and the axles from the ring gear, mark as 36 and set to side. Take the 42-7 rear and remove the banjo from the tubes. Remove the differential carrier and the axles from the ring gear mark a 42-7 and set to side. Clean and inspect 42-7 banjo and ring and pinion. Remove and replace 42-47 ring gear carrier bearings with bearings from the 35/6 ring gear carrier. Re assemble 35/6 differential carrier and axles on the 42-7 ring gear. This matches the correct length axles with the correct length housings as well as the correct carrier bearings to match the axle tubes. The carriers are interchangeable. Replace bell gaskets on the 35/6 axle tubes assemble and check for proper carrier crush on bearings and back lash on pinion, adjust as per procedure. A positive to this is that the stock 42-7 pickup ring gear can be a 3.54, 3.78 or 4.11 ratio. While you have it apart it might be a good idea to replace the axle shaft seals in the ends of the axle tubes also.
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