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Technical Starting 1930 Ford Coupe Project in 2022 (Questions from a Nubee)

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Crew Chief, Dec 22, 2021.

  1. Crew Chief
    Joined: Jan 28, 2020
    Posts: 107

    Crew Chief
    Member

    I will start working on my 1930 Ford Coupe in January. I already have a Boling Brothers frame and have the front axle mocked up. The body came with a 3.5 inch chop and a title which saved a bunch of time. Chop has to be finished because it is just tack welded. I think I am on the right track to get the chassis set up with the rear end and rolling so I can fit the body later.

    First question is what do you all do about wheel pattern? I bought a 9" rear end out of a 1965 Galaxie with trashed gears. It is too wide but got it cheap so only going to salvage the backing plates and drums. These are 11" brake assemblies I believe. The drums are 5 on 4.5 hole pattern. My front are traditional Lincoln 5 on 5.5" brake and drum assemblies. I am going to order a Moser 9" this coming Monday but will have to tell them what bolt pattern I want on the axles. My wheels are traditional 40s 16" steel wheels with a 5.5" bolt pattern. I am trying to use what I have to keep costs down. Do I drill out the drums to 5.5" pattern or keep the 4.5" pattern and match the axles to them? Most of you guys have been through this.

    Second question: What tire size are you running? The ones I have are Coker 7:50-16 in the back and I don't necessarily like the tall skinny. I got these in a parts trade. I rolled them up to the body to show my wife and she didn't like them either. Not a fan of the super wide ones either. I would like to use a 16X7 rim with a radial that is close to 30 inches maybe. I know radials are not traditional but I am looking at comfort and ride appeal. Any photos with specs would be appreciated.

    Third question: What gear ratio do you recommend? I will be running a 4 speed Muncie. The 3rd member I have is a 3.70 open. I am going to rebuild it and put a limited slip spool in it.

    I tried doing a search on all these questions but got tired of reading late at night. Thank you all and Merry Christmas.

    Left side.jpg Right side.jpg
     
  2. If it were me, I would run the 5-1/2” pattern front and rear to be able to run more traditional wheels. But, those wheels would also be something more like what you mention you have but don’t like. If you aren’t planning to run traditional style wheels, it might be easier to just make the front 4-1/2 pattern and run that on both ends. The rear end ratio has a lot to do with what you plan to use the car for. The 3.70’s and that 4-speed would be fun in town, but be screaming pretty good in the highway. I would just consider what the overall goals are for the car, then go from there.

    The only thing is, most answers you will get here will be leaning toward traditional stuff since that is what this forum is all about. It you are wanting to lean more toward a street rod style, those questions might be answered better somewhere else.
     
    Texas57, loudbang, mad mikey and 2 others like this.
  3. Kevin Ardinger
    Joined: Aug 31, 2019
    Posts: 792

    Kevin Ardinger
    Member

    If you decide on the 5.5 rear bolt pattern I’m pretty sure I have two used drums that you were welcome to for free. You can have someone pick them up or pay the shipping. I would run that 370 since you have it
     

  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,505

    alchemy
    Member

    Yes, the traditional 40's wheels will use the 5.5" pattern, and you might as well tell Moser to give you that pattern on the new axles. Maybe they can coordinate the axles to fit some pickup drums. Don't make more trouble trying to save $100 by using some brake drums that need redrilling anyway.

    Be aware there are a million different backing plates and drums for 9" Fords, tons of different diameters, offsets, center register hole sizes. Might just be easiest to order all that stuff on the new Moser rear and be ready to go when you pull it out of the box.

    As you will learn, traditional 50's hot rods used a tall and skinny tire on the rear. The 7.50-16 you have would be perfect. I bet you can sell those to a guy who gets it (see the jab I just did there?), and be able to afford a full set of radials for your car. Maybe your mom can recommend a good tire shop for the radials (see that other jab?). ;)
     
  5. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,432

    Squablow
    Member

    If you're going through the expense of buying a ready-made rearend, I'd probably just buy the matching drums and sell off what you've got to offset the cost. Mixed patterns are kind of a pain in the ass to deal with.

    You already have the tires that everyone here is going to suggest. Do you have a period picked out for this car that you want to emulate? Most here are going to go for the look of a certain time period, an early 50's look is a lot different than a mid 60's look. Mixing them all up often ends up with a confused, unattractive build, and I can't think of a single 16x7 wheel that existed in the period that the HAMB is devoted to, unless it was some kind of pin-drive magnesium thing for racing or something.

    Maybe try to get your build further along before you buy wheels and tires for it, that could be done last if need be.
     
  6. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,207

    clem
    Member

    Re the wheel stud pattern, Dodge had a similar looking rim with 4.5” pcd which is what I used for my car, - but I would still recommend that you do what the others have mentioned above and keep it all the same - 5 x 5&1/2”.

    study this a little…..
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-a-coupe-picture-thread.1053337/
    lots of threads on radial tyres that look like bias…….here’s just one…
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/coker-american-radial-bias-ply-look-alike-tires.1057630/
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2021
    loudbang and Crew Chief like this.
  7. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 6,541

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    At least figure out your specific tire size front and rear so you can use that circumference to set ride height .
     
  8. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,678

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No need to drill rear brake drums. Lots of late 50's pickups and some cars had 9"rear with 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern. Your 3.70 rear ratio is fine for about 90% of most driving with most engines. If you want a turnpike cruiser you may want 3.36 or 3.55. Once you get your engine package worked out there are plenty of on line calculators to get your desired engine RPM based on your gear ratio and tire diameter.
     
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  9. Crew Chief
    Joined: Jan 28, 2020
    Posts: 107

    Crew Chief
    Member

    Guthrie,
    No street rod here. I appreciate your input and lean more toward traditional. I did get in some 16X6 wheels today and I will mount the 7:50-16 Firestones on them and see how they look. It should make them look a bit wider. Hate not to use them and having to buy something else even though I don't have much in them due to a trade.
    Thanks
     
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  10. Crew Chief
    Joined: Jan 28, 2020
    Posts: 107

    Crew Chief
    Member

    Al,
    I like the jabs. I can take it. I not totally into using radials, just another option for looks. I can't remember that last time I rode on bias ply tires. Had to be in the late 60s. Yes, I am that old. :(

    Jose
     
  11. Crew Chief
    Joined: Jan 28, 2020
    Posts: 107

    Crew Chief
    Member

    Thanks Mitch. I had a brain fart. :eek: I am so used to writing 2021.
     
  12. Crew Chief
    Joined: Jan 28, 2020
    Posts: 107

    Crew Chief
    Member

    Thanks, those are good threads to check out. After reviewing the comments, I am going to stick with the 5X5 1/2 bolt pattern. It saves a hassle running tow different bolt patterns.
     
    clem likes this.
  13. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,968

    brokenspoke
    Member

    My only suggestion is decide on the style of the build and stick too it, just because the part is cheap is not a good reason to buy it....
     
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  14. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,457

    oj
    Member

    If you are getting axles made you can have more than 1 bolt pattern in them and let the project tell you which to use.
     
  15. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,408

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    How about a radial tire that looks like the old bias ones. Excelsior Stahl from Coker 16425FB6-3B71-447C-97CE-7B2575B918F1.jpeg C986C9CC-271E-480F-8AAD-8D3EECD93C16.jpeg
     
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  16. Crew Chief
    Joined: Jan 28, 2020
    Posts: 107

    Crew Chief
    Member

    That is perfect. That is the look I am going for.
    Thanks
    Chief
     
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  17. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,408

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

  18. That rear tire fits the body perfectly…
     
  19. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,487

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As you are on a budget If was me Id sell that rear end and go with a 8.8, here's a thread on those.
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/8-8-rear-end-for-a-hotrod-info.1203372/

    Work out how tall your tires will be and either buy a set or some rollers the same height and width as you'll need them to mock up your suspension etc to the right height. Some guys cut then out of wood for mock up. Personally I love 750-16 and 550-16 but its your car.
     
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  20. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,487

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This is GREAT advice. Would add dont box yourself into using a part just beacause you have it either. Do it once, do it right.
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2021
  21. Zax
    Joined: May 21, 2017
    Posts: 633

    Zax
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. 1952-59 Ford Social Group

    Moser can do 9 inch shafts drilled for both 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5 to give you options for the future. They gave me that option when I had a set made for a narrowed 9 inch years ago. Don't think it added much to the cost of the shafts for them to drill dual patterns.
     
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  22. Crew Chief
    Joined: Jan 28, 2020
    Posts: 107

    Crew Chief
    Member

    Good advice. Thanks
     
  23. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,857

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    @Crew Chief
    If you decide to go a different route on the rear brakes I'd be interested in your backing plates if they are the large bearing pattern for my 68 Galaxie 9" in my 31 tudor.
     
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  24. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,857

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    BTW I believe you use can the backing plates and drums from a ford truck as I think they are already 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
     
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  25. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,538

    badshifter
    Member

    You can’t run a “limited slip spool” rear end. Either it’s limited slip, as in posi, or it’s a spool, as in locked rear.
    Narrow the rear you have and order axles. WAY cheaper than a complete Moser rear. And far more traditional.
     
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  26. roddering
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 244

    roddering
    Member
    from Arizona

    Regarding the rear housing bolt pattern. I have a similar issue, just reversed sizes. You can buy a 1.5" adapter for the axles that bolt to the 4.5" and have 5.5" studs. This would be the easiest, or cheapest solution. Especially IF you have to purchase wheels and tires.
     
  27. roddering
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 244

    roddering
    Member
    from Arizona

    Another solution would be to ask Boling Bros for a rearend assembly. They are well versed on Model As.
    Then sell off the purchased rearend.
     
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  28. roddering
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 244

    roddering
    Member
    from Arizona

  29. roddering
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 244

    roddering
    Member
    from Arizona

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