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Technical Anyone have experience peening porous holes shut in aluminum?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HardcoreZ28, Dec 17, 2021.

  1. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,280

    finn
    Member


    Your issued the point that it’s an obsolete transmission, no longer available from GM. They don’t sell them anymore, or even have stock to sell.

    He would have to find a new one from some aftermarket wholesaler ( that’s where this one was from, and it was the last one in the county), or find a rebuilt one from some random rebuilder.
     
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  2. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,348

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    I`d swap it out with a different kind of tranny. Yes, he would have to change his driveshaft and his tranny hump in the floor. That is what I meant to say.
     
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  3. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    Unfortunately I built my trans tunnel and shifter around this particular transmission and with the truck already painted and undercoated that's risky business
     
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  4. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,672

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well since you are commited to using this transmission, and are going to take it out, I would want to get a fix on it that I was confident in for the long haul. You will have to decide for yourself where your comfort level is for each repair option. The drilling for a drain plug might be the best repair without taking it apart. I would rather fix your new one than looking for a used one. I admit to at times getting anal about some things. So even though the NV 3500 sucks to get apart compared to other transmissions, I would want to see it apart and fix it once now and not wind up pulling it out again down the road. But that's just me.
     
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  5. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,530

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    There's always the bar of Ivory soap trick.
    I never tried it myself, but a fellow I respect recommended it a few decades back.

    For nuisance leaks I'm usually an epoxy or RTV guy.
     
  6. I have heard that too ... drop a bar of soap in a certain environment and there's a good chance your hole will be filled :eek:o_O
     
  7. I would try the JB weld method on that little leak. I have fixed similar situation on customers cars and the problem has not returned, on several it has been years and no leak.
     
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  8. patterg2003
    Joined: Sep 21, 2014
    Posts: 864

    patterg2003

    It is hard to tell what you have without an xray. It may be one porous bunch of metal with the best part of the area exposed to the outside. Could roll it over so the spot is in the highest position to avoid contaminating a repair. Blast it a few times with brake cleaner, rinse it well with acetone then butter it with JB weld. The mill where I worked had a leak on a large piece of electrical equipment that had pin leak in a weld, had 115Kv going through it that could not be shut down or welded on. It was steel so a few hits with a punch sealed it, then acetone and JB weld. That was 2004 and it is still good. Not sure if it is safe to punch porous aluminum not knowing what the full story is with the metal condition in that spot.
     
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  9. Return for refund or exchange. Or por15 the spot and aluminum paint with spray can to hide the Por15 paint.
     
  10. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,525

    Joe H
    Member

    Can you pressurize the internals to make sure it's only the one hole? Dad bought a set of first run aluminum heads for his Pontiac, one had so many pores leaking it looked like a foam machine when put pressure to it!
     
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  11. Glenn Thoreson
    Joined: Aug 13, 2010
    Posts: 928

    Glenn Thoreson
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Us old school guys would drill the hole and thread it for a brass screw. Use thread lock on it, Cut and grind any excess sticking out the outside to your satisfaction and it's good to go. Use a center punch to stake the screw in place and don't let it protrude on the inside too much. Stake it in there, too, if you can get at it.
     
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  12. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    These are all very good ideas. I'm hoping to get back to it next week....covid has been kicking my butt the last 5 days.

    I won't be returning it as I'm almost positive they can't get me a replacement. I'll probably try JB Weld first and if it fails down the road I'll try to drill and tap for a plug.
     
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  13. HardcoreZ28
    Joined: Feb 24, 2010
    Posts: 446

    HardcoreZ28
    Member

    For those of you who followed this I finally got around to the repair this week. I pulled the trans and put it on its side to keep fluid away from the holes. I peened it with a rounded punch and hammer and it looked like the holes were covered. I put a thin coat of JB Weld over it after, feathered the edges in and touched up the paint. You'll never know the repair is there once it's back in the truck. I'm letting it cure another day or two and I'll reinstall the trans this weekend....hopefully leak free 20220111_084630.jpg 20220112_180551.jpg
     
  14. Baumi
    Joined: Jan 28, 2003
    Posts: 3,043

    Baumi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Perfect,looks like it never happened!
     
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  15. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,174

    Budget36
    Member

    Hope it works out for you.
     
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