I call bs on that...what if someone hit it while parked and drove off? Your insurance company is giving you the run around. You actually collected the other drivers info! Tell em to do their damn job
I agree, they're jerking you around. Call your state insurance commissioner office and register a complaint. And switch insurance companies...
They are supposed to call me back the 22nd and let me know how the door knocking went. The issue I have is somehow my coverage doesn't have Collision only PL/Pd. Had I gotten a police report I'd be in a different situation I hear. I've fought with them all the way on this one. In the end, I know now to file a police report. Insurance is telling me I can go ahead and get a lawyer involved and sue the other person for damages but I don't see that being cost effective, and any way it goes down I don't see them being able to fix the damage. The bumper is ground through the chrome into the base metal so I don't think a chrome shop would be able to repair it. I suppose this is the risks I run daily driving it everywhere. I would also advise against anyone using Geico for their classic vehicle insurance.
I measured the defroster duct and got some universal plastic stuff that was the right size. I'll dig up the order and part info for you. I don't remember there being any actual paper gaskets I had to replace, most of the factory stuff was sealed with that sticky black stuff. I just removed it all and put new, 3M Strip Caulk was what I used. My factory control cables all freed up after a little lubrication and working back and forth slowly. My factory blend water control valve leaked. I ended up using a universal as a replacement. Still have to make a new cable control for that piece. Right now I just open the valve for winter and close for summer. For the under hood fresh air and heater motor ducts I used the Shoebox Central ones.
Got a good start on fitting in all my heater parts, but can anyone give me a heads up on routing the hoses for this switch? I'm guessing it's a thermostat or bypass valve for the heater.. I should be ordering the blower motor, cables and ducting in the next couple weeks. I'll probably pull my dash and get a wiper motor installed and straighten up some of the wiring in this thing when I do the install. And I gotta do the same thing with my daily 78 f250. New heaters all around! Lol using hot water to de ice my windows, and anti fog is getting pretty old pretty quick this year.
I guess I should double check: blower switch and wiper switch should be OK with 12v instead of 6 I'm assuming? Or do I need voltage drops in there?
The voltage drop are for the blower motor and the wiper motor. 12 Volts on a 6 Volt motor will increase the current (Amps) - Potentially it will overheat the motor, switch and the wires. The ideal solution would be a 12 Volt blower motor and a 12 Volt wiper motor. "Voltage drops" involve knowing the required current of the motor. The startup current (in rush) is higher than the steady state speed current. This gets even more complicated with a multi-speed motor. Russ
I'm looking at buying a 12v blower motor, and the 12v wiper motor, but are the stock switches (assuming they're in good shape) going to care about the going from 6 to 12? The stock wipers I believe were vacuum operated, so im assuming they come with a new switch.. so im mostly wondering about the heater dash switch.
A 12 Volt blower motor uses 1/2 the current (Amps) of a 6 Volt blower motor (of the same horsepower rating). If your blower switch is in good condition, it will work just fine. The key word is "IF", that switch is almost 70 years old (I was 9 years old in 1953, I definitely did incur some mechanical and wiring problems since then ). Another concern is the condition of the insulation on the wires. I have never worked on a 1953 Ford. I have worked on older cars where the wire insulation was fabric covered rubber. The insulation had crumbled and exposed the wire core - bare wires are an electrical fire looking for a place to happen. Russ EDIT: If the 53 Ford has plastic insulation, you "might" have better luck. Carefully examine the wires. If the insulation is intact, the odds of success are much better.
The wiring harness in the car was re done 20 years ago or so, so it's all updated. I'm going to still carefully inspect it when I pull the dash and see if it is time to re wire the car again.
Well.... no news. They failed to call me again. So it looks like it's time to find another insurance company, and spread the word that GEICO IS HORRIBLE TO USE FOR INSURANCE. DO NOT USE GEICO!
I've heard it said that you can never stop learning, if you want to. I bought my '52 salesman's coupe as a project. I had just sold my '58 Watson styled Fairlane, and needed another car to race. I finished up the coupe, painted it "Alpine Blue", and added Wimbleton white on the top. Learning process.... The Mainline coupes apparently never 2-toned, and the available colors were blue-grey (alpine blue), green-grey, and grey. Those in the know, please feel free to correct me, I'm thick skinned.. and hate the smell of egg on my face.. The quarter panel trim is from a Ranch wagon (try finding a pair of these puppies)....And the top color separator is from a Customline 4-door, trimmed to kinda fit. A little bling never hurt anybody. Now for the big learning process. I knew the '54 dash had been added, and the grille is '54. I did not know that the hood and hinges are the only parts common to the '52/3 and the '54. I reckon the Y-block was longer than the flattie, so the front suspension was moved forward a smidge. This of course stretched the wheelbase, but not the overall length. So the space in front of the tires is shorter, and voila, so is the bumper. No big deal, 'cept I had already bought and received a set of '52 rechomed bumpers. Anybody need a very nice '52/3 bumper. I have the '54 that was with the car, and it's not too bad, it's simply very $ to get them chromed.... So there you have it, I have lived, and I have learned !! My critter is a Mainline, but I couldn't find a nice set front fender emblems...
Yessir! Everything I do gets solder and heat shrink, or high end weatherproof terminals. I have tried my best to eliminate those blue and red and yellow plastic connectors everywhere I see em. That's why I need to check all the wiring behind the dashboard, and im going to put one of those classic auto sound radios that look like the stock unit in. And likely replace the 70 year old mat behind the firewall with a new piece while I'm in there.
found this on a classified ad for a 53, putting it here for safe keeping so I can see how the heater lines are run, and how the under the hood goes together.
I’m using the stock blower switch. No issues. Mine is 12v with a modern wiring harness. Still running the vacuum wipers
This may help you with the heater hose routing. Topic was a 6 cylinder but the concept is the same for a V8. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ing-for-6-cylinder-car.1210616/#post-13808787
I'm not entirely sure I even have the stock windshield wiper motor anymore. I know the wiper drive arm for the passenger side is laying on the floor. I'm probably gonna go with the shoeboxcentral wiper motor kit.. but I do appreciate the heater hose link! I'm severely winging it when it comes to this heater. It was completely missing with some block off plates when I got the car.
Thanks for posting pic of your floor board. I now know what goes in the recess on the left! The dimmer switch! Cool! Now all I have to do is find that stamping the switch mounts to. Thanks again
Speaking of front fender emblems........These would work fine (until the hood is raised!) I mean.....since you ARE re-building it!! 6sally6
Ford stuck with vacuum wipers all through the '50s, electric wipers started appearing in '60 on select cars. A common 'upgrade' used to be a tri-5 Chevy electric wiper motor as it would fit in place of the vacuum motor and the switch was on the motor, not the dash. The OEM cable would operate the switch. These didn't always work well though, as the geometry wasn't always right. Be careful with the aftermarket conversions. They're not all the same, and some will interfere with other stuff under the dash. If you want the best, go with these guys; https://newportwipers.com/
That looks like the kit shoebox central sells. I'll probably just order it from Newport to make sure, and so if there's any issues I can go direct to the manufacturer and they have record of it. Thank you for the heads up!
alright.. im back at it trying to get this thing back on the road. Question I have for you guys is: which do I hook up which wire on these gauges? The power is all daisy chained together with voltage drops... but I don't know which post they hooked up to. Had the pics on my phone but I dropped and broke it and lost everything.
Maybe these will help. Pretty sure the blue is the feed from the voltage drop and the white that is attached to the blue at the temp gauge post is the one that daisy chains through.
Well: I'm back at it again on the car. Removing the rear end for an 8.8 with more highway friendly gears, as well as installing sound deadening and seat belts for my passengers. Going to have to figure out e brake cables, but at least ill have 3.73 gears and 4 wheel disc brakes. Also my insurance company called to let me know i can take it to a body shop for a repair estimate from the incident in November.
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