Projects BACK TO MY ROOTS-261 CHEVROLET 6 Powered Model A Stock Car

My laptop is broken and I can not upload photos, please bear with me on updates.

 

What better away to break in the new Laptop (thanks mom and dad) then by posting the completed race car transmission mounts.

 

I love dumpster diving! Soon to be cut down and become a rear bumper!

3/16" aluminum bent into 6" channel 1.5" web.

 

Started to fit up the body the rear was way too high in the rear


Cut some off the bottom of the body...


At this point I was giving thought to doing an Ed "Big Daddy Roth style build...


...I am a period correct builder not cartoon builder, a 3" hole saw got the body down and got it looking right!


Sitting with a little rake and looking good next up building body mounts.

 

I like the fact you did not hack off the whole rear like so many did.

 

I am trying not to cut up the body any more then I need too. Any that I cut off the bottom was rusty/rotten and would have needed to be replaced.

The doors that came with this car were way to nice to cut up, I sold them and found some rough but workable Henry steel door skins.

 

I owned this one for a couple years, it ran a chevy six, went off the track around 59 and sat in a junkyard for decades.

 

Not an update but too cool not to post!!!

I have been looking for copy of this photo for years! My Great Uncle Leslie Kellerhouse chief steward at Fonda Speedway presenting Lou Lazzaro a trophy.

 

Header tubes photo I found on the interweb, I posted them here so I could find them again for reference.
Photos by Peter Wounsch

 

Keep going ....

 

Vintage parts finds at the Lebanon Valley speedway swapmeet Sunday (11-07-21) steel wheels, bolt on spindles, Q.C. set 2, and a new S.B.C. header soon to be used to build a 261 Chev. 6 header!

I think the gray wheel is N.O.S. 15"x8"
15"x10" white wheel


Three bolt on spindles, thanks to Jimmy Fugel, and Darrel Hulburt for telling me about them.


Brand Q.C. new gears, unbelievably cheep.


and a small block Chevy header soon to be cut up and put in the correct engine configuration.

 

Robert , thanks for prob earliest Monk picture I have seen. What year you estimate that is ? I was at The Valley Sunday.
Stretch

 

In the late 50's early sixties we could hear 5 Mile Point races from where I lived on the south side of the Susquehanna in Binghamton. I saw The Joie Chitwood Auto Thrill Show there in 1964. I think they were driving the first Mustangs out of the factory in the show!

 

We think it is 1969, the best part is I posted it on the Fonda Modified Memories FaceBook (Yes I finally broke down and joined the dreaded FaceBook, I had to to keep track of the club) and none of the Lazzaro family had ever seen it

 

That’s cool you gave the family a new memory.

 

Updates coming soon-

I spent yesterday (12-18-21) by taking apart early Ford axles spares for the race car.

 

I got my dash laid out and built today.

 

LOOKING GOOD!

Man, what is that aluminum sheet called? I suddenly can't find it and I want some for @justa170 's build. I have no idea what to search for.

 

I have always called it textured aluminum, I think the proper name is embossed aluminum.

Sorry about the delay I just got the notification.

 

Hi Robert, followed along with your build off & on & it's time I got my own wrapped up, somewhat nearing completion of a yet to run under its own power chassis, & the body no doubt will consume the spring into summer seasons. My avatar is the subject of my comments & will need to have my wide 5 snouts machined to bolt up flat on my 37 spindles, originally had a pair of 3/4 ton snouts trimmed flat but felt the mounting surface was too thin to bore out to fit over the spindle raised race surface. Luckily was able to source a pair of the much heavier pair of snouts as you have used & was curious if the mounting flange is sufficient after the machine work without the use of the slug inserts, I have seen them both ways, any suggestions appreciated Thanks,Ron

 

THANK YOU! I found it!

 

I am running vintage aftermarkets (Frankland I think) on the front with the inserts, I also put six 2" long T.I.G. welds enough for a little more piece of mind, but easy to cut off I need to replace them.


I used the stock 3/4 ton spindles on the rear

 

Thanks, I too as mentioned opted for the Frankland etc thicker flange simply due to the amount of material needed to machine off to fit over the (2) raised areas on the spindles. someone mentioned making a spacer instead but that would put the snout out another 3/4". I agree with you that those cut off 3/4-ton snouts with the thinner flange are perfectly fine for the rear, in my case I'm using the complete 3/4-ton 42 ford open drive rear and 1/4 elliptical springs. Thanks again & appreciate your prompt response. Ron

 

The garage became a catch all over the holidays. I have been sorting it out I did manage it get it emptied and got a little work done today!

I needed a little more room between the steering wheel and the brake pedal. The pedal was at a steep angle, at the top of the stroke my knee hit the steering wheel. There wasn't enough thread on the push rod to level the pedal enough for my knee to clear to wheel.

I built a spacer that goes between the pedal assembly and the master cylinder to lessen the angle of the pedal and still have adjustment on the push rod.

I also got a bunch of stuff laid out for next weekend!

 

Hello Robert, just me again, I conversed with you & Marty Srode as well here on the hamb regarding machining my Frankland wide 5 snouts to mate up to the 37 spindles. Agree that the center bore can be enlarged to fit over the unused spindle race to bring the snout closer, however was uncertain if enough material remains to further machine the snout 4" recess to index over the spindle raised 4" land area, Marty opted to machine a 3/8" spacer in that regard, & need to outsource machining, so seeking the most cost effective means, value your opinion. Thanks, Ron

 

PM sent

 

I had a 261 in my second chevy pu just out of high school, a 52 short bed. Had a local machine shop build it. The builder had been building six bangers for roundy rounders for many years. That motor was bullet proof! Bored out and a shaved head with Clifford Research 4 bbl intake and headers. Lots of torque...light to light it was deadly. Of course it was a bit hard on the rest of the running gear....

 

Sometimes I forget if I am building a racecar or making Swiss cheese.


Before someone asks- They reduce drag. With no windows or windshield air would get trapped by the rear panel. The holes allow the air to escape.

 

Always wondered if anyone did wind tunnel tests on that. I had heard that they added holes to the flaps on dive bombers to add drag. Just curious.

 

Looking awesome Robert!